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I want to thank ThePetes for this thread and for working through this issue with multiple people at the dealership. I finally got the issue fixed on my 2020 CX-5 Grand Touring Reserve (AWD and turbo) at the same dealership, Brown's Fairfax Mazda in Fairfax, Virginia (i.e., the Washington, DC metro area).
For those who find this thread, unfortunately, as of fall 2024, the sound in my 2020 CX-5 Grand Touring Reserve (AWD and turbo) has returned, along with the cooler fall weather. I'd love to know whether anyone has had this issue remedied by a dealership recently. Maybe Mazda has published a TSB about it since I first experienced the problem. Or maybe someone has figured out a DIY solution. Grateful for any leads!
Some co-workers agree with 3carmonte that the noise is hard to hear or it is not there. Others are like me that it is very annoying and something that I should have checked out. I am wondering if it is a high frequency sound that only some people can here. I found a YouTube video of another person complaining about the buzzing sound.
Two people in the comments of that video have mentioned that they have this issue on their new Signature vehicle.
Sounds like the high pressure fuel pump -- fill up with some premium fuel - add a can of 44k or similar fuel system cleaner - drive / any codes ?- just a guess based on the audio -
Last edited by retread888; Dec 19, 2024 at 01:34 PM.
Sounds like the high pressure fuel pump -- fill up with some premium fuel - add a can of 44k or similar fuel system cleaner - drive / any codes ?- just a guess based on the audio -
Please note that when you view a thread at least look at the date of the person you are responding to
The quote you posted is from Feb 1, 2020 | 09:02 AM
On the positive side you recommendation is always a good idea and even can have a placebic effect .
lasziati read this as well!
As for asking for DTC please try to ask in a better way to be more helpful? Because more people than not will drive many more miles, day or even weeks (or more0 with the check engine light on some DTC will be placed in a permanent file and not always simply show for most DIY causal scanning. So perhaps asking what the current DTC are and note them then re-set or clear the DTC (which simply turns off the dash check engine light) and drive until the check engine light returns. Then asap retrieve the DTC and compare with the baseline notes. This way you can somewhat rule out a engine condition left unchecked that caused more DTC to follow from the original.
The better thing to ask them to do or have done is to scan the ECU and check the 3 main areas of the ECU. This will better narrow down the original and possible reduce the list of items to diagnosis. The 3 area's are Pending/Current DTC, Permanant DTCs and the I?M Monitors for state of ready. Have them make notation of all found information. Now you have way to formulate a diagnostic tree to follow from the most likely to the least.
Never recommend to change any part before it was tested and or verified as failed or not to specification. Doing so more often than not creates more problem to the original yet to be resolved original.