Might be a knock sensor issue causing the ignition to retard due to false knock detection. Scan it for codes to rule out anything the ECU can detect (it can't by definition detect false knock). Make sure you have ruled out poor quality gas as well...

 

168,000 on my 2001 Mazda Tribute ES. Repairs to date. New alternator at @100,000. Front brakes replaced with ceramic discs at @ 60,000. Ignition switch brackets(bent) replaced(switch locked up). All coils and plugs replaced twice to date. Front hood molding replaced. New fuel pump at 150,000. All vacuum hoses replaced at @ 90,000, and in process of replacing them again. Idle control valve replaced once and cleaned twice (not really needed). Power steering pump replaced at 165,000. Driver's door handle replaced once, and then fixed again using method posted on here. Driver seat re-upholstered 167,000.Coolant reservoir replaced at 165,000 (cracked on seam). Brake fluid reservoir cap replaced. Currently running great after replacing # 5 coil( with good old coil) and new plug.

 

 

300k. Lots of minor issues. Got it at 200k. Replaced nearly every vacuum tube and currently doing the exhaust. Oil/fuel filter/air filter change every 3 months. Spark plugs every 6.

 

I have had mine for about a week and it has 204,000 on it. Someone has either hidden problems well or it's just been taken care of. Not a noise or idiot light anywhere.... yet!. The blasted security light blinking when you exit the thing is irritating (I'm Old) but outside of the cheap speakers paired with a JVC changer I don't have any gripes... yet! I have the V6 version S model.

 

I know it's been a while but, have you checked the fuel pump control module? It's a real pain but it costs less than other solutions. I have been told that when it's cold out a bad control module that has issues can't operate normally.