Mazda Protege This compact model offers an economical solution for the need for a sporty sedan or wagon.

2000 protege

  #1  
Old 02-17-2019, 08:57 PM
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Exclamation 2000 protege Rough Idle

i replaced my water pump and timing belt, alternator, fan belts, catalytic converter, valve cover gasket,spark plugs and wires,air filter,thermostat, battery, and radiator hoses. Car runs awesome. Drives smooth. Now the problem is when it warms up the idle is rough, and it stalled. I found a video and cleaned the throttle bottle and Clean the IAC and throttle sensor and EGR valve. The car will idle now and didnít stall, but still rough. The throttle boby was very dirty, and cleaned up well. So I went to the junk yard and found good parts that were very clean and not gunked up. They moved freely, and I installed all, plus a mass air sensor. The car drives very well and accelerates , no misfires. It still idles rough. The timing was set correctly. At a 2000 rpm it is very smooth and strong. Any ideals what I can check?
 

Last edited by Melissa Robles; 02-17-2019 at 09:40 PM. Reason: Change post
  #2  
Old 02-18-2019, 03:19 AM
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Have a good inspection of the black intake hose, they are proned to perish & split.

Also, with the engine running, gently pour water over the intake manifold where it bolts to the cylinder head, listen for any changes in idle. This would indicate a leaking gasket.
 
  #3  
Old 02-18-2019, 12:53 PM
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Angry

I checked for vacuum leaks at the intake and other vacuum hoses. No changes to idle. It runs well at start up but when warms up it runs rough. Maybe the timing is retarded. How do I set timing on this, with no distributor. Any other suggestions?
 
  #4  
Old 02-18-2019, 07:18 PM
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Ok. Did some more checking on vehicle found out I have a lot of condensation coming out of tail pipe when idling. I took car to local mechanic and he is checking on compression and a leakage test. I just hope is something that I missed and not to expensive to repair. He says I have done everything right so far. I just can’t put to much into it. I have about $1200 in it so far. The catalytic converter was around $500 alone. Any help would be appreciated thanks

ok, I just more info from mechanic. He said 1,2,3 cylinders tested compression at 175. Cyclinder was at 210. Didn’t have to do a leakage test. Cyclinder 4 May have a lot of carbon on the valves. He suggested to pull the head off. I’m going to try and add a additive to fuel to burn carbon. I’m also going to try to sea foam to throttle while it’s running to burn carbon also. See what happens. I like the car and want to try to repair it
 

Last edited by Melissa Robles; 02-19-2019 at 11:01 PM.
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