2000 mazda millenia s. rmp won't pass 2000
#1
12-01-2012, 09:38 PM
2000 mazda millenia s. rpm won't pass 2000
First, I am new here and thanks for everyone reading my post. Last week my Milly 's CEL is flashing, noise from the engine and took to autozone and got these codes.
P0306, P0173, p1526.
I thought it's cylinder 6 misfire, so i changed the spark plug (use the OEM parts).After changing the spark plugs, the CEL doesn't flash but still on. Car runs good for several days.
Today, I changed the air filter for Milly. After finishing these, I notice that there is intermittent jerking and the rpm can't pass 2000. The CEL flash again when I try to accelerate. Haven't got any codes this time.
Is this another symptom of misfire. Is it possible the coil pack in cylinder 6 is broken. I tried to test the coil when I changed the spark plug last time, but i have no clue how to test them?
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
P0306, P0173, p1526.
I thought it's cylinder 6 misfire, so i changed the spark plug (use the OEM parts).After changing the spark plugs, the CEL doesn't flash but still on. Car runs good for several days.
Today, I changed the air filter for Milly. After finishing these, I notice that there is intermittent jerking and the rpm can't pass 2000. The CEL flash again when I try to accelerate. Haven't got any codes this time.
Is this another symptom of misfire. Is it possible the coil pack in cylinder 6 is broken. I tried to test the coil when I changed the spark plug last time, but i have no clue how to test them?
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Last edited by ledona; 12-01-2012 at 10:05 PM.
#2
12-02-2012, 09:32 AM
First, I am new here and thanks for everyone reading my post. Last week my Milly 's CEL is flashing, noise from the engine and took to autozone and got these codes.
P0306, P0173, p1526.
I thought it's cylinder 6 misfire, so i changed the spark plug (use the OEM parts).After changing the spark plugs, the CEL doesn't flash but still on. Car runs good for several days.
Today, I changed the air filter for Milly. After finishing these, I notice that there is intermittent jerking and the rpm can't pass 2000. The CEL flash again when I try to accelerate. Haven't got any codes this time.
Is this another symptom of misfire. Is it possible the coil pack in cylinder 6 is broken. I tried to test the coil when I changed the spark plug last time, but i have no clue how to test them?
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
P0306, P0173, p1526.
I thought it's cylinder 6 misfire, so i changed the spark plug (use the OEM parts).After changing the spark plugs, the CEL doesn't flash but still on. Car runs good for several days.
Today, I changed the air filter for Milly. After finishing these, I notice that there is intermittent jerking and the rpm can't pass 2000. The CEL flash again when I try to accelerate. Haven't got any codes this time.
Is this another symptom of misfire. Is it possible the coil pack in cylinder 6 is broken. I tried to test the coil when I changed the spark plug last time, but i have no clue how to test them?
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
1526 is abv VENT circuit.
what does all this mean? well, the vacuum system on this car is complex. basically, what is happening is that the abv(air bypass valve) controls boost. if there is a vacuum leak, then boost cannot be controlled. ecu shuts down boost, and puts the car in limp home mode. limp home is rpm will not go above about 2500(acts like fuel cut), check engine lite flashes, and tcs off/tcs lites come on. GENERALLY SPEAKING, and not all the time, in the early stages, shutting down the car and restarting will reset, but it soon starts all over. there are a couple things going on here. first, you need to address the vacuum problem. there are about 21 feet of vacuum line, some or all of it needs to be changed. then, connecting the lines are several plastic T and Y connectors(3 way), and a few 2 way connectors. i have only changed the T connecters, i think there are 3, i know for sure 2 of them go bad a lot. i use brass T's, you can get them from someplace that sells fishtank stuff. but the labor is quite intense. if you are going to change the T's, you should also change out a lot of the vacuum line. i use silicon line that places that sell turbochargers supply. so far, i cannot find line that is the exact OD, it is always about 1.5mm larger. so it is a bit of a chore to get it into the guides, and some of them will break. i used ties. then, there are 2 green and white plastic one way valves. by now, your old vacuum lines have welded themselves to the inlet/outlet, and you will probably break the valves trying to remove the vacuum lines. these valves are used on a LOT of other mazdas, but they are not cheap, about 25 bucks each online. now the fun part. the intake has to come off to get to most of the lines. that means remove both intercoolers, battery, and the main part that bolts to the supercharger outlet, then goes to the intercoolers. when you remove the plastic cover that has "miller cycle" on it, you will see that huge mother. it is heavy, and there are a lot of other parts that have to come off before you can remove it. this will then expose all of the lines. on the back of the motor, next to the egr valve is a row of solenoids. nr's 2 and 4 are the important ones. these are vent and vacuum, and BOTH need to be ohm'd. if they are over 35, or 0, they are bad, and need to be changed. i would and do change both, because if one is bad, the other is close to bad. they cost about 62 bucks online, they ONLY fit the 2.3, and no dealer is gonna stock them. they will have to come from a regional warehouse, or possibly from japan, so it's gonna take a while. these will throw the 1525/1526 and 1540 dtc when bad. oh, and even if they ohm good, when they heat up, they will ohm bad. and that rear bank gets a LOT more heat than the front. all the vacuum lines going to and from those solenoids will be hard, and some will be difficult to remove from the outlets of the solenoids. NOT a fun job, and the rats nest of lines will drive you crazy.
because of the age of these cars, if you have not changed the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and coolant hoses, this would be a good time. HOWEVER, if you cannot do these jobs yourself, and have to pay a shop to do it, the labor charge will be more than the car is worth. i am in the middle of this exact job right now. if you have to pay a shop, then i would just have them do the vacuum lines, and then sell the car. BUT, most shops have never even SEEN this engine before, and unless they are very good, and this goes for the dealer, too, they will eff up the vacuum lines, and you will have more problems than you started out with, and the job will have to be redone again and again. and some shops will start blaming the ecu(BIIIG bucks, but NOT the problem), and all kinds of other parts. it could cost thousands, and the car aint worth much. resale on millenias has always been in the toilet. so, good luck
if you go to the other mazda site, mazdaworld.org, the millenia section has much more info, and there are a lot more technically knowledgeably owners there. but only a few have really done these jobs
Last edited by keninn; 12-02-2012 at 09:37 AM.
#3
12-02-2012, 09:45 AM
0173 is a vacuum leak
1526 is abv VENT circuit.
what does all this mean? well, the vacuum system on this car is complex. basically, what is happening is that the abv(air bypass valve) controls boost. if there is a vacuum leak, then boost cannot be controlled. ecu shuts down boost, and puts the car in limp home mode. limp home is rpm will not go above about 2500(acts like fuel cut), check engine lite flashes, and tcs off/tcs lites come on. GENERALLY SPEAKING, and not all the time, in the early stages, shutting down the car and restarting will reset, but it soon starts all over. there are a couple things going on here. first, you need to address the vacuum problem. there are about 21 feet of vacuum line, some or all of it needs to be changed. then, connecting the lines are several plastic T and Y connectors(3 way), and a few 2 way connectors. i have only changed the T connecters, i think there are 3, i know for sure 2 of them go bad a lot. i use brass T's, you can get them from someplace that sells fishtank stuff. but the labor is quite intense. if you are going to change the T's, you should also change out a lot of the vacuum line. i use silicon line that places that sell turbochargers supply. so far, i cannot find line that is the exact OD, it is always about 1.5mm larger. so it is a bit of a chore to get it into the guides, and some of them will break. i used ties. then, there are 2 green and white plastic one way valves. by now, your old vacuum lines have welded themselves to the inlet/outlet, and you will probably break the valves trying to remove the vacuum lines. these valves are used on a LOT of other mazdas, but they are not cheap, about 25 bucks each online. now the fun part. the intake has to come off to get to most of the lines. that means remove both intercoolers, battery, and the main part that bolts to the supercharger outlet, then goes to the intercoolers. when you remove the plastic cover that has "miller cycle" on it, you will see that huge mother. it is heavy, and there are a lot of other parts that have to come off before you can remove it. this will then expose all of the lines. on the back of the motor, next to the egr valve is a row of solenoids. nr's 2 and 4 are the important ones. these are vent and vacuum, and BOTH need to be ohm'd. if they are over 35, or 0, they are bad, and need to be changed. i would and do change both, because if one is bad, the other is close to bad. they cost about 62 bucks online, they ONLY fit the 2.3, and no dealer is gonna stock them. they will have to come from a regional warehouse, or possibly from japan, so it's gonna take a while. these will throw the 1525/1526 and 1540 dtc when bad. oh, and even if they ohm good, when they heat up, they will ohm bad. and that rear bank gets a LOT more heat than the front. all the vacuum lines going to and from those solenoids will be hard, and some will be difficult to remove from the outlets of the solenoids. NOT a fun job, and the rats nest of lines will drive you crazy.
because of the age of these cars, if you have not changed the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and coolant hoses, this would be a good time. HOWEVER, if you cannot do these jobs yourself, and have to pay a shop to do it, the labor charge will be more than the car is worth. i am in the middle of this exact job right now. if you have to pay a shop, then i would just have them do the vacuum lines, and then sell the car. BUT, most shops have never even SEEN this engine before, and unless they are very good, and this goes for the dealer, too, they will eff up the vacuum lines, and you will have more problems than you started out with, and the job will have to be redone again and again. and some shops will start blaming the ecu(BIIIG bucks, but NOT the problem), and all kinds of other parts. it could cost thousands, and the car aint worth much. resale on millenias has always been in the toilet. so, good luck
if you go to the other mazda site, mazdaworld.org, the millenia section has much more info, and there are a lot more technically knowledgeably owners there. but only a few have really done these jobs
1526 is abv VENT circuit.
what does all this mean? well, the vacuum system on this car is complex. basically, what is happening is that the abv(air bypass valve) controls boost. if there is a vacuum leak, then boost cannot be controlled. ecu shuts down boost, and puts the car in limp home mode. limp home is rpm will not go above about 2500(acts like fuel cut), check engine lite flashes, and tcs off/tcs lites come on. GENERALLY SPEAKING, and not all the time, in the early stages, shutting down the car and restarting will reset, but it soon starts all over. there are a couple things going on here. first, you need to address the vacuum problem. there are about 21 feet of vacuum line, some or all of it needs to be changed. then, connecting the lines are several plastic T and Y connectors(3 way), and a few 2 way connectors. i have only changed the T connecters, i think there are 3, i know for sure 2 of them go bad a lot. i use brass T's, you can get them from someplace that sells fishtank stuff. but the labor is quite intense. if you are going to change the T's, you should also change out a lot of the vacuum line. i use silicon line that places that sell turbochargers supply. so far, i cannot find line that is the exact OD, it is always about 1.5mm larger. so it is a bit of a chore to get it into the guides, and some of them will break. i used ties. then, there are 2 green and white plastic one way valves. by now, your old vacuum lines have welded themselves to the inlet/outlet, and you will probably break the valves trying to remove the vacuum lines. these valves are used on a LOT of other mazdas, but they are not cheap, about 25 bucks each online. now the fun part. the intake has to come off to get to most of the lines. that means remove both intercoolers, battery, and the main part that bolts to the supercharger outlet, then goes to the intercoolers. when you remove the plastic cover that has "miller cycle" on it, you will see that huge mother. it is heavy, and there are a lot of other parts that have to come off before you can remove it. this will then expose all of the lines. on the back of the motor, next to the egr valve is a row of solenoids. nr's 2 and 4 are the important ones. these are vent and vacuum, and BOTH need to be ohm'd. if they are over 35, or 0, they are bad, and need to be changed. i would and do change both, because if one is bad, the other is close to bad. they cost about 62 bucks online, they ONLY fit the 2.3, and no dealer is gonna stock them. they will have to come from a regional warehouse, or possibly from japan, so it's gonna take a while. these will throw the 1525/1526 and 1540 dtc when bad. oh, and even if they ohm good, when they heat up, they will ohm bad. and that rear bank gets a LOT more heat than the front. all the vacuum lines going to and from those solenoids will be hard, and some will be difficult to remove from the outlets of the solenoids. NOT a fun job, and the rats nest of lines will drive you crazy.
because of the age of these cars, if you have not changed the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and coolant hoses, this would be a good time. HOWEVER, if you cannot do these jobs yourself, and have to pay a shop to do it, the labor charge will be more than the car is worth. i am in the middle of this exact job right now. if you have to pay a shop, then i would just have them do the vacuum lines, and then sell the car. BUT, most shops have never even SEEN this engine before, and unless they are very good, and this goes for the dealer, too, they will eff up the vacuum lines, and you will have more problems than you started out with, and the job will have to be redone again and again. and some shops will start blaming the ecu(BIIIG bucks, but NOT the problem), and all kinds of other parts. it could cost thousands, and the car aint worth much. resale on millenias has always been in the toilet. so, good luck
if you go to the other mazda site, mazdaworld.org, the millenia section has much more info, and there are a lot more technically knowledgeably owners there. but only a few have really done these jobs
Thanks so much keninn. Thes jobs don't sound fun. I don't have garage and don't want to throw huge money on it. I probably pass it ASAP.
#4
12-13-2012, 06:38 AM
0173 is a vacuum leak
1526 is abv VENT circuit.
what does all this mean? well, the vacuum system on this car is complex. basically, what is happening is that the abv(air bypass valve) controls boost. if there is a vacuum leak, then boost cannot be controlled. ecu shuts down boost, and puts the car in limp home mode. limp home is rpm will not go above about 2500(acts like fuel cut), check engine lite flashes, and tcs off/tcs lites come on. GENERALLY SPEAKING, and not all the time, in the early stages, shutting down the car and restarting will reset, but it soon starts all over. there are a couple things going on here. first, you need to address the vacuum problem. there are about 21 feet of vacuum line, some or all of it needs to be changed. then, connecting the lines are several plastic T and Y connectors(3 way), and a few 2 way connectors. i have only changed the T connecters, i think there are 3, i know for sure 2 of them go bad a lot. i use brass T's, you can get them from someplace that sells fishtank stuff. but the labor is quite intense. if you are going to change the T's, you should also change out a lot of the vacuum line. i use silicon line that places that sell turbochargers supply. so far, i cannot find line that is the exact OD, it is always about 1.5mm larger. so it is a bit of a chore to get it into the guides, and some of them will break. i used ties. then, there are 2 green and white plastic one way valves. by now, your old vacuum lines have welded themselves to the inlet/outlet, and you will probably break the valves trying to remove the vacuum lines. these valves are used on a LOT of other mazdas, but they are not cheap, about 25 bucks each online. now the fun part. the intake has to come off to get to most of the lines. that means remove both intercoolers, battery, and the main part that bolts to the supercharger outlet, then goes to the intercoolers. when you remove the plastic cover that has "miller cycle" on it, you will see that huge mother. it is heavy, and there are a lot of other parts that have to come off before you can remove it. this will then expose all of the lines. on the back of the motor, next to the egr valve is a row of solenoids. nr's 2 and 4 are the important ones. these are vent and vacuum, and BOTH need to be ohm'd. if they are over 35, or 0, they are bad, and need to be changed. i would and do change both, because if one is bad, the other is close to bad. they cost about 62 bucks online, they ONLY fit the 2.3, and no dealer is gonna stock them. they will have to come from a regional warehouse, or possibly from japan, so it's gonna take a while. these will throw the 1525/1526 and 1540 dtc when bad. oh, and even if they ohm good, when they heat up, they will ohm bad. and that rear bank gets a LOT more heat than the front. all the vacuum lines going to and from those solenoids will be hard, and some will be difficult to remove from the outlets of the solenoids. NOT a fun job, and the rats nest of lines will drive you crazy.
because of the age of these cars, if you have not changed the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and coolant hoses, this would be a good time. HOWEVER, if you cannot do these jobs yourself, and have to pay a shop to do it, the labor charge will be more than the car is worth. i am in the middle of this exact job right now. if you have to pay a shop, then i would just have them do the vacuum lines, and then sell the car. BUT, most shops have never even SEEN this engine before, and unless they are very good, and this goes for the dealer, too, they will eff up the vacuum lines, and you will have more problems than you started out with, and the job will have to be redone again and again. and some shops will start blaming the ecu(BIIIG bucks, but NOT the problem), and all kinds of other parts. it could cost thousands, and the car aint worth much. resale on millenias has always been in the toilet. so, good luck
if you go to the other mazda site, mazdaworld.org, the millenia section has much more info, and there are a lot more technically knowledgeably owners there. but only a few have really done these jobs
1526 is abv VENT circuit.
what does all this mean? well, the vacuum system on this car is complex. basically, what is happening is that the abv(air bypass valve) controls boost. if there is a vacuum leak, then boost cannot be controlled. ecu shuts down boost, and puts the car in limp home mode. limp home is rpm will not go above about 2500(acts like fuel cut), check engine lite flashes, and tcs off/tcs lites come on. GENERALLY SPEAKING, and not all the time, in the early stages, shutting down the car and restarting will reset, but it soon starts all over. there are a couple things going on here. first, you need to address the vacuum problem. there are about 21 feet of vacuum line, some or all of it needs to be changed. then, connecting the lines are several plastic T and Y connectors(3 way), and a few 2 way connectors. i have only changed the T connecters, i think there are 3, i know for sure 2 of them go bad a lot. i use brass T's, you can get them from someplace that sells fishtank stuff. but the labor is quite intense. if you are going to change the T's, you should also change out a lot of the vacuum line. i use silicon line that places that sell turbochargers supply. so far, i cannot find line that is the exact OD, it is always about 1.5mm larger. so it is a bit of a chore to get it into the guides, and some of them will break. i used ties. then, there are 2 green and white plastic one way valves. by now, your old vacuum lines have welded themselves to the inlet/outlet, and you will probably break the valves trying to remove the vacuum lines. these valves are used on a LOT of other mazdas, but they are not cheap, about 25 bucks each online. now the fun part. the intake has to come off to get to most of the lines. that means remove both intercoolers, battery, and the main part that bolts to the supercharger outlet, then goes to the intercoolers. when you remove the plastic cover that has "miller cycle" on it, you will see that huge mother. it is heavy, and there are a lot of other parts that have to come off before you can remove it. this will then expose all of the lines. on the back of the motor, next to the egr valve is a row of solenoids. nr's 2 and 4 are the important ones. these are vent and vacuum, and BOTH need to be ohm'd. if they are over 35, or 0, they are bad, and need to be changed. i would and do change both, because if one is bad, the other is close to bad. they cost about 62 bucks online, they ONLY fit the 2.3, and no dealer is gonna stock them. they will have to come from a regional warehouse, or possibly from japan, so it's gonna take a while. these will throw the 1525/1526 and 1540 dtc when bad. oh, and even if they ohm good, when they heat up, they will ohm bad. and that rear bank gets a LOT more heat than the front. all the vacuum lines going to and from those solenoids will be hard, and some will be difficult to remove from the outlets of the solenoids. NOT a fun job, and the rats nest of lines will drive you crazy.
because of the age of these cars, if you have not changed the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and coolant hoses, this would be a good time. HOWEVER, if you cannot do these jobs yourself, and have to pay a shop to do it, the labor charge will be more than the car is worth. i am in the middle of this exact job right now. if you have to pay a shop, then i would just have them do the vacuum lines, and then sell the car. BUT, most shops have never even SEEN this engine before, and unless they are very good, and this goes for the dealer, too, they will eff up the vacuum lines, and you will have more problems than you started out with, and the job will have to be redone again and again. and some shops will start blaming the ecu(BIIIG bucks, but NOT the problem), and all kinds of other parts. it could cost thousands, and the car aint worth much. resale on millenias has always been in the toilet. so, good luck
if you go to the other mazda site, mazdaworld.org, the millenia section has much more info, and there are a lot more technically knowledgeably owners there. but only a few have really done these jobs
Keninn,
I want to try change the ABV vent solenoids myself first. After removing the plastic cover "miller cycle", can I see the ABV VENT solenoid directly? Is it on the driver side?
Thanks
#5
12-13-2012, 10:16 AM
actually, the cover dont have to be removed. look for the egr valve. to the driver side of the egr valve is a row of 4 solenoids. the ones you need are the 2nd and 4th. here is a pic of the solenoids:
1370A - EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM (2300CC). Fits: Mazda | Jim Ellis Mazda
be careful using this diagram, notice the solenoids have a ref(no. 3, no. 2). it will note on the list of parts which one it is. then, using the part number, you will find the prices at tasca is much better. TascaParts.com
the solenoids you need are:
KJ03-18-741A vent
KJ02-18-741A vacuum
they slide on to that triangular bracket, but the first time you do this, they will be hard to remove. after you do one, and you will probably break the part that holds the solenoid to the bracket, the other will be easier. however, the vacuum lines will be hard and shrunk. a couple will be very difficult to remove, and you may end up breaking the outlet off inside the vacuum line. you need to have vacuum line to replace the hardened ones. you can get silicon vacuum line at any place that sells turbochargers. i happen to like rre-http://roadraceengineering.com/blog/-i have bought a lot of stuff from them, they have good prices and excellent service. you can shop around for cheaper prices, but you wont find better service. you need to go to the other millenia forum, mazdaworld.org, there will be pictures of the actual solenoids on the car. however, the solenoids are only part of the possible problem. the other is broke tees. the intake has to come off for these, lotsa labor.
1370A - EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM (2300CC). Fits: Mazda | Jim Ellis Mazda
be careful using this diagram, notice the solenoids have a ref(no. 3, no. 2). it will note on the list of parts which one it is. then, using the part number, you will find the prices at tasca is much better. TascaParts.com
the solenoids you need are:
KJ03-18-741A vent
KJ02-18-741A vacuum
they slide on to that triangular bracket, but the first time you do this, they will be hard to remove. after you do one, and you will probably break the part that holds the solenoid to the bracket, the other will be easier. however, the vacuum lines will be hard and shrunk. a couple will be very difficult to remove, and you may end up breaking the outlet off inside the vacuum line. you need to have vacuum line to replace the hardened ones. you can get silicon vacuum line at any place that sells turbochargers. i happen to like rre-http://roadraceengineering.com/blog/-i have bought a lot of stuff from them, they have good prices and excellent service. you can shop around for cheaper prices, but you wont find better service. you need to go to the other millenia forum, mazdaworld.org, there will be pictures of the actual solenoids on the car. however, the solenoids are only part of the possible problem. the other is broke tees. the intake has to come off for these, lotsa labor.
#6
12-14-2012, 08:48 AM
I just did this job myself. It's not that hard, but it can be a bit confusing dealing with the mess of vacuum hoses and the difficult reach. Be very careful not to confuse where the hoses go so you don't put them back incorrectly. Take pictures if you have to. I used a blown-up image to work from. You should think about using new hose wherever possible. Make sure you have a lot of light shining in there so you see what you're doing. I got the solenoids off pretty easily using a screwdriver at the bottom, carefully pushing upwards.
#7
12-14-2012, 08:56 AM
Here's a really good picture that you can work from:
vacuum hoses
The solenoids are just above the center of the diagram.
vacuum hoses
The solenoids are just above the center of the diagram.
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