I bought a used 2001 Millenia S (price w/ ttt = $4k, mileage = ~125k). 2 owners, no accidents, great condition outside and excellent inside. Looks and feels like almost mint, but I'm finding out it needs more TLC repairs and maintenance than expected. Took it to Madza when I had problems starting it one morning. It needed an alternator, tensioner and belt... $1,008 for all OEM parts. OUCH!

When I look up the "values" of the car, looks like i'm already in the medium range with the first repair.


KBB Retail = $7,450
KBB Private = $5,550 (Good)
Edmunds TMV = $4,168


When Madza Service gave it the once over (16-point courtesy) they came up with these "needed soon" maintenance items:

1) Front brake pad service (~$125)
2) CV Axle Boots (all four) service &/or replacement (~$1,000)
3) EGR clean and service w/ "possible" part replacement ($~500-$2,000)

I recently blew the following OBD-II codes...

P0421 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P1250 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Circuit
P1524 Charge Air Cooler Bypass Solenoid Circuit
P1525 ABV Vacuum Solenoid Circuit

My questions are (I know, finally):

1) Are the Madza Service repair estimates fair?

2) What do I look for in finding a good alternative mechanic for this "specialty" car? Who in Austin?

3) Am I just way out of my league and need to find an enthusist here who needs the parts and minimize my losses?

Reference thread: http://forums.mazdaworld.org/100-mil...ds-advice.html

 

...Front End work...
High Perf Ceramic Brake Pads = $46.99 parts
L CV Half-Shaft Assembly = $59.99 parts $75 labor
R CV Half-Shaft Assembly = $59.99 parts $75 labor
L/R Rack & Pinion Bellow Kit = $35.99 parts $75 labor
Computer Alignment = $79.00

...DIY Tune-up...
High Perf Plugs and wires = $109.56
Oil & Filter = $29.98
Air Filter = $21.99
Belts = $73.98
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Zoom-Zoom = Priceless! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

To anyone out there! 99 millenia s tripped codes p0105, p0170, p0173-a friend and I started tracing vacuum hoses and found a busted connector and two hoses that were not connected; one hose was on the T with MAP sensor hose. The other was on the driver's side of the engine. We cleared all the codes but are waiting for check engine light to trip again to see if we can find out what connectors/or parts are needed.

 

all those codes are caused by the vacuum leak. even tho you found one broke tee, there are several, 2 that are actual t shaped, and both are prone to breaking. if the second t is still in good shape, you have solved your problem. however, expect it to happen again. the only sure way to fix this is to replace all the t's with brass, or metal. while you are at it, i would also change all 21 feet of vacuum line, and use a good silicon line. places that sell turbos all have silicon line in various sizes

 

I'm on it... I've already got some 44mm hose and brass connector T's on the way.

This will be an icremental DIY, but I'll re-post when I get finished.

Thanks for all your input!!!

 

Thanks for all the help!! I've bought this vehicle new and love it. But won't pass Arizona emissions so need to get the problem fixed.

 

When the car starts cold, and kept running without turning it off, it runs great. When you turn the car off, and start it again before it cools off (2-3 hours), the engine light will start flashing, and the engine will run quite bad. It will run, but rough, like timing, misfire, injection are not correct. Sometimes the engine light will stop flashing then stay on. If you turn it off and let it go back to cold before starting again, it returns to normal. I can drive it for miles without problems, as long as I don’t turn it off.

It started to blow code p0303...

I replaced all plugs and boots, and just recently replaced the entire coil for cylinder #3.


I've intermittently blown these codes before all the work mentioned in this thread:

P1250 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Circuit
P1524 Charge Air Cooler Bypass Solenoid Circuit
P1525 ABV Vacuum Solenoid Circuit

Now, code p0303 is only followed by P1524.

What can cause the misfire after a warm start on only a single cylinder?

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for any advice!!!

 

Just pass inspection for 2001 millenia, after fix vacuum leak and T connection, bited by small animal (I got code p105. sometimes p170 & 173). Taking out cover of engine, turn engine on idle and listen air souck sound to find broken location.

 

Nevermind, found it!

http://milleniatech.net/tsb/download...,0305,0306.pdf

 

Thank you for your help Mazda enthusiasts