Has anyone replaced the fuse that is on the positive battery cable? The stealership wants $1000 for the entire emissions harness. Has anyone fabricated a cable with an inline fuse to replace the OEM?

 

You can use an aftermarket or rigged fuse you make yourself. The best and cheapest in my opinion is car audio blocks. Fuses.. distribution blocks for replacement. Their top quality. Usually stainless for corrosion. You could split the wiring and wire in any type of 150 Amp fuse. It's a direct power to the battery/harness. Use the little module they supply too if you want too. The little capacitor. But not needed.

 

Thanks, MazdaBoy that is exactly what I did and it works fine. I appreciate your input.

 

I have the same issue with the main fuse blown in the battery cable and was quoted $1500 for a new harness. What did you use to replace to replace it?

I'm looking at the InstallGear 0/2/4 Gauge AWG In-Line ANL Fuse Holder with 150 Amp Fuse on Amazon.

What did you end up using, any advice

 

If it's a single power wire. Like a thick 4/6/8 gauge power wire. A car audio in line fuse holder will work perfect. Just to replace the main fuse part itself. Stealerships are outrageous for most parts. So yeah if it's outta warranty and your not concerned about cutting a cable and spending 10 minutes on swapping out a fuse holder by all means save yourself literally hundreds of dollars and buy a $5/10 in line fuse. A few more dollars if you need a higher fuse than what comes with them. And replace it.


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QUOTE=The Gunny;166180]Has anyone replaced the fuse that is on the positive battery cable? The stealership wants $1000 for the entire emissions harness. Has anyone fabricated a cable with an inline fuse to replace the OEM?[/QUOTE]

 

eBay in line fuse. Same ones at Walmart and local car audio shops. Tube shaped. Has Allen screws to clamp wire down and rubber boot that shifts over top of the wiring to ensure it stays dry.
Replace the 80 amp that came with it. It's pretty heavy duty so I was able to a 140-200 amp fuse in its place.

 

The main fuse is encased in plastic. You can verify that this fuses blown by using a jumper cable, connecting it to the battery terminal and then underneath the main fuse at the bottom end. After doing this, I was able to start my car. Now the fix is simple take a slotted screwdriver and a hammer and break open that case around the main fuse. Took a pair of linesman pliers, and trim the tail ends shorter then drilled a hole in connectors for a bolt to install both ends. Then purchased a new 150 amp fuse plus stainless nuts, bolts and washers, assembled tightly worked perfectly.



😊

 

Dude you do realize the last member to have posted on this thread was Oct 4, 2018 | 09:58 PM

I would not recommend the last posted way to determine an electrical issue. But then I guess that is why the member's name is

You do not add a power lead to bypass a fuse or relay to test the circuit.

If one is going to dabble with being a DIY then there are at least a few required tools and equipment that is needed. One BIG one is a simple and inexpensive Digital volt/ohm meter


Maybe wash your engine compartment at least once a year? LOL