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OG 2014 CX5, about to hit 100k, maintenance advice?

Old Aug 7, 2022 | 06:19 PM
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Question OG 2014 CX5, about to hit 100k, maintenance advice?

Seen a few threads about the older CX-5's and what people have done in the interim, I have an AWD Grand Touring I bought in Aug 2013. Always been in Texas, so no rust or issues like that, just a couple batteries replaced cause of heat. Since warranty finished I've done my own maintenance, try to use the 'top shelf' stuff. Given the current auto market, I'm going to hang onto the Mazda a bit longer while I make my mind up about next vehicle. Anyways, I have typically done synthetic oil and filters on a regular schedule, even switched to 'high mileage' at 80k miles. Have done spark plugs at 75k, transmission/diff oil and brake pads and rotors around the same time. Try to keep wheels balanced/aligned fairly regularly cause Houston potholes are a nightmare. Other than that, haven't had any issues with any of the systems.

My thoughts for upcoming 100k service would be mostly preventative:
  • Full coolant flush and replace
  • Mechanical linkages (tie-rod ends, sway bar links, and ball joints)
  • Suspension replace (front and rear shocks/struts - I see KYB just started their Fall rebate...)
  • Engine belt replace
My biggest question was this: is there an option to use the original control arm and just replace the ball joint? I am seeing Moog advertise the part# K500395, but maybe its just better to replace the whole control arm with the Mevotech from RockAuto, because I can't find any replacement bushings?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2022 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by simplytex
... I'm going to hang onto the Mazda a bit longer while I make my mind up about next vehicle. ...
If 'a bit longer' is not more than let's say 2 years, then I wouldn't do much of anything extra, aside from taking care of specific problems that arise. But that's JMO, and what I would do if I had the same vehicle replacement plan that you described. That said, my answer to your specific question would be to replace the entire LCA instead of just the ball joint.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2022 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by m5xguy
If 'a bit longer' is not more than let's say 2 years, then I wouldn't do much of anything extra, aside from taking care of specific problems that arise. But that's JMO, and what I would do if I had the same vehicle replacement plan that you described. That said, my answer to your specific question would be to replace the entire LCA instead of just the ball joint.
Ok, yeah the cost isn't much extra but I always will save a buck even if I have to work a bit more, but I haven't been able to find anywhere that confirms any options for OEM ball joint replacement.

To your general sentiment, you probably are right. This car has got its fair share of 9 yrs worth of wear and tear (cosmetically) that is. I've read some threads on the older years suspension getting replaced at the 60-80k mark and improving the enjoyment, I guess it wouldn't net me money back but at least might give me a little more satisfaction driving for the next 6-18mo.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2022 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by simplytex
Ok, yeah the cost isn't much extra but I always will save a buck even if I have to work a bit more, but I haven't been able to find anywhere that confirms any options for OEM ball joint replacement. ...
No problem at all with saving a buck, which I do myself whenever possible. The reason I don't replace ball joints is the possibility of bushings being on the way out, which ultimately becomes a waste of time and $$ when the entire arm needs to be replaced. And another reason (which probably doesn't apply to you living outside the rust belt), is the possible need to cut the arm off, or mangle it in some other way during the removal process. Anyone who has worked on 10 year old rust belt vehicles understands where I'm coming from on that. But OTOH we're talking DIY costs here, so it won't be a big pile of money wasted, regardless of how it turns out for you.

I've never had my hands on one of these LCAs, but I see a snap ring on the ball joint in the photos, which means that it should be fairly easy to replace one. Perhaps there's a thread on this forum or another one, which describes changing this particular ball joint (which was also used on other Mazda models).

.... I guess it wouldn't net me money back but at least might give me a little more satisfaction driving for the next 6-18mo.
Again, those of us who DIY can do stuff like this for what I feel is a reasonably low cost. So if you have the time and the motivation to do the work, by all means full speed ahead!
 
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