2016 CX-5: Control Arm and Tie Rod
#1
2016 CX-5: Control Arm and Tie Rod
I have a 2016 CX-5 with about 55k miles which I took to the dealer for an oil change in Jan 2022. They found these issues:
CONTROL ARM - FRONT : ball joints and bushings cracked badly, $800
TIE ROD END REPLACEMENT : ball joints cracked badly: $452
DIFFERENTIAL SEALS : front transfer case needs new seals leaking fluid: $800
and a few other things: PVC, Throttle body cleaning, Spark Plug replacement, etc.
I took the car to an independent mechanic and they inspected it and they said I don't need any of these. There is a hairline minor crack in the ball going indeed but it's minor and does not pose any problems.
in July I took the car again to a different dealer for another oil change now at 60k. They found similar issues:
REAR DIFFERENTIAL SERVICE DUE EVERY 30K , .TRANSFER-CASE SERVICE DUE EVERY 30K, .FUEL INJECTION SERVICE , .THROTTLE BODY SERVICE, .FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARMS NEED TO BE REPLACED, .THE BUSHINGS ARE DRY ROTTED/TORN AND .THE BALL JOINTS LOOSE/DUST BOOTS ARE DRY ROTTED., .OUTER TIE RODS ARE WORN/LOOSE OR RUBBER SEALS ARE DRY ROTTED
I took the car to Another independent mechanic and I told them I want to buy it and to give me a pre-purchase inspection. They put it on the lift and once again they don't see any problems with the tie rods or control arms.
I don't have the skills to get under the car and inspect myself. What do you do: do you trust the dealer, maybe there is something wrong after all, or do you trust the independent mechanics?
Thanks all.
CONTROL ARM - FRONT : ball joints and bushings cracked badly, $800
TIE ROD END REPLACEMENT : ball joints cracked badly: $452
DIFFERENTIAL SEALS : front transfer case needs new seals leaking fluid: $800
and a few other things: PVC, Throttle body cleaning, Spark Plug replacement, etc.
I took the car to an independent mechanic and they inspected it and they said I don't need any of these. There is a hairline minor crack in the ball going indeed but it's minor and does not pose any problems.
in July I took the car again to a different dealer for another oil change now at 60k. They found similar issues:
REAR DIFFERENTIAL SERVICE DUE EVERY 30K , .TRANSFER-CASE SERVICE DUE EVERY 30K, .FUEL INJECTION SERVICE , .THROTTLE BODY SERVICE, .FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARMS NEED TO BE REPLACED, .THE BUSHINGS ARE DRY ROTTED/TORN AND .THE BALL JOINTS LOOSE/DUST BOOTS ARE DRY ROTTED., .OUTER TIE RODS ARE WORN/LOOSE OR RUBBER SEALS ARE DRY ROTTED
I took the car to Another independent mechanic and I told them I want to buy it and to give me a pre-purchase inspection. They put it on the lift and once again they don't see any problems with the tie rods or control arms.
I don't have the skills to get under the car and inspect myself. What do you do: do you trust the dealer, maybe there is something wrong after all, or do you trust the independent mechanics?
Thanks all.
#3
I would do what GR suggests but then again if you don't have the skills as you say, them pointing out issues will be meaningless to you.
I'm lucky, the dealer I use is decent to me, but they are also a motorcycle dealer that I've used for 20 years.
I also have two great local independent mechanics (one who worked for me while going to trade school).
Once my vehicle warranties expire, I use them exclusively and I have known them personally for years.
Mechanics are like doctors/dentist it takes time to build a rapport and there are good ones and bad ones.
With the internet you can research the dealer as well and garner a great deal of information from that.
I'm lucky, the dealer I use is decent to me, but they are also a motorcycle dealer that I've used for 20 years.
I also have two great local independent mechanics (one who worked for me while going to trade school).
Once my vehicle warranties expire, I use them exclusively and I have known them personally for years.
Mechanics are like doctors/dentist it takes time to build a rapport and there are good ones and bad ones.
With the internet you can research the dealer as well and garner a great deal of information from that.
#4
Ignore dealer
I have a 2016 CX-5 with about 55k miles which I took to the dealer for an oil change in Jan 2022. They found these issues:
CONTROL ARM - FRONT : ball joints and bushings cracked badly, $800
TIE ROD END REPLACEMENT : ball joints cracked badly: $452
DIFFERENTIAL SEALS : front transfer case needs new seals leaking fluid: $800
and a few other things: PVC, Throttle body cleaning, Spark Plug replacement, etc.
I took the car to an independent mechanic and they inspected it and they said I don't need any of these. There is a hairline minor crack in the ball going indeed but it's minor and does not pose any problems.
in July I took the car again to a different dealer for another oil change now at 60k. They found similar issues:
REAR DIFFERENTIAL SERVICE DUE EVERY 30K , .TRANSFER-CASE SERVICE DUE EVERY 30K, .FUEL INJECTION SERVICE , .THROTTLE BODY SERVICE, .FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARMS NEED TO BE REPLACED, .THE BUSHINGS ARE DRY ROTTED/TORN AND .THE BALL JOINTS LOOSE/DUST BOOTS ARE DRY ROTTED., .OUTER TIE RODS ARE WORN/LOOSE OR RUBBER SEALS ARE DRY ROTTED
I took the car to Another independent mechanic and I told them I want to buy it and to give me a pre-purchase inspection. They put it on the lift and once again they don't see any problems with the tie rods or control arms.
I don't have the skills to get under the car and inspect myself. What do you do: do you trust the dealer, maybe there is something wrong after all, or do you trust the independent mechanics?
Thanks all.
CONTROL ARM - FRONT : ball joints and bushings cracked badly, $800
TIE ROD END REPLACEMENT : ball joints cracked badly: $452
DIFFERENTIAL SEALS : front transfer case needs new seals leaking fluid: $800
and a few other things: PVC, Throttle body cleaning, Spark Plug replacement, etc.
I took the car to an independent mechanic and they inspected it and they said I don't need any of these. There is a hairline minor crack in the ball going indeed but it's minor and does not pose any problems.
in July I took the car again to a different dealer for another oil change now at 60k. They found similar issues:
REAR DIFFERENTIAL SERVICE DUE EVERY 30K , .TRANSFER-CASE SERVICE DUE EVERY 30K, .FUEL INJECTION SERVICE , .THROTTLE BODY SERVICE, .FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARMS NEED TO BE REPLACED, .THE BUSHINGS ARE DRY ROTTED/TORN AND .THE BALL JOINTS LOOSE/DUST BOOTS ARE DRY ROTTED., .OUTER TIE RODS ARE WORN/LOOSE OR RUBBER SEALS ARE DRY ROTTED
I took the car to Another independent mechanic and I told them I want to buy it and to give me a pre-purchase inspection. They put it on the lift and once again they don't see any problems with the tie rods or control arms.
I don't have the skills to get under the car and inspect myself. What do you do: do you trust the dealer, maybe there is something wrong after all, or do you trust the independent mechanics?
Thanks all.
Go to the dealer and ask to buy the same year and model car from them! Then ask what work they have done on it to certify it? They will be red faced and full of excuses. You think every 6vyear old car they resell, they do all this work on before selling? No!
Your differential oil may need changing, but check is it is leaking or wet underneath. This is i think done at 60k, but check your service book.
Note, All dealers may have access to ALL service records and notes from other dealerships, as we have shared service records and internet. That's why the 2nd dealer read the old notes from previous dealer and told you same thing!!!
Next time take it to FORD dealer or some other than Mazda shop so they don't have access to your records and history.
Last edited by Mazdagus; 07-27-2022 at 08:13 PM.
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