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Are you able to do cx5 2021 turbo oil change without raising the car on jacks? Thanks
If I was younger and thinner I would probably be able to change the oil without raising the car. But let's just say that I've been changing my own oil on my cars for 46 years and I've put on a few pounds so I use a pair of Rhino ramps. You'll need a 17mm wrench for the drain plug, an 8mm nutdriver and a tool to extract the two plastic rivets with to remove the plastic access cover. A small flat-blade screwdriver will work for that. And you'll probably want a socket-style oil-filter wrench that fits the filter. (I don't know the size)
Well Fram makes Honda filters. Like I said I used Fram in all these cars and never had an issue with mobile 1.
1995 Camaro Z28 sold 128,000
1996 Chevy cavalier sold 115,000
2005 Toyota 4runner sold 67,000
2006 Honda Civic 232,000 still own
2007 Honda Odyessy 189,000 still own
2014 Honda CRV 115,000 still own
2019 Honda Accord turbo 23,000 still own
2021 Mazda CX-5 5,000 still own
But I'm also a mechanism and change my own oil. The real killer of engines is low oil and people going over 8000 miles between changes, just ask Toyota and their Toyota Camry's when they recommended 10,000 mile oil changes and had piston ring issues.
If I was younger and thinner I would probably be able to change the oil without raising the car. But let's just say that I've been changing my own oil on my cars for 46 years and I've put on a few pounds so I use a pair of Rhino ramps. You'll need a 17mm wrench for the drain plug, an 8mm nutdriver and a tool to extract the two plastic rivets with to remove the plastic access cover. A small flat-blade screwdriver will work for that. And you'll probably want a socket-style oil-filter wrench that fits the filter. (I don't know the size)
If you want to avoid having to get to the drain plug - get an oil extractor and remove oil from the top of the engine through the dipstick tube. I haven't looked to see how hard it is to get to the filter, but it may be possible without having to use ramps?
Why do people want to put in another brand when there all almost same price. The filter is really small.
Consistency of QUALITY is often times better with aftermarket oil filters
And not all MAZDA filters are available globally and NO .....MAZDA oil filter in many cases are not as good as some aftermarket.
Another reason that has sound merits is some people DON"T like where some of MAZDA oil filters are manufactured. See my previous responses.
I see your Mazda oil filter was made in Thailand and that same part number from MAZDA is also made in Mexico and Japan.
SIZE of the OIL filter has NOTHING what-so-ever to do with the efficiency....
If you want to avoid having to get to the drain plug - get an oil extractor and remove oil from the top of the engine through the dipstick tube. I haven't looked to see how hard it is to get to the filter, but it may be possible without having to use ramps?
Part of the reason for doing a "DRAIN PLUG" removing of the old oil is also to remove material or old fluid that settles to the bottom of the oil pan. There is little to NO windage in the lower part of the oil pan. Using those syphon type oil removal is some of the worst things you can do when doing a oil and filter service on an engine. This can clearly be seen from oil analysis.
BOTTOM LINE BAD IDEA!!!
Those were originally marketed to remove excess oil in sumps that were accidently over filled. And then someone thought about the idea to use them to cheat side stepping removing the drain plug during a SIMPLE oil change!!
Look into historical products offered from JC WHITNEY in the 60's.
1) Perhaps Mazda passes their filter specs to you due to your businesses. I haven't found anything readily available about their
efficiency or their bypass specs. 2)As to my sources, I get information from the filter manufacturer web sits, Like 'whip city wrencher', there are folks that take filters apart for examination.
In some cases, retail venders have specifications in or on their catalogs or web sites. 3) Rock Auto is one example. there are also 4)OIL related sites that
are a source for much information.
My 2¢
1) Thats right they do and I have to spend a day on the phone to get one sheet of information per filter or part from them. What a PIA!!!!! 2) rolmao really. These guys take a filter apart and gain vewiing points from many like yourself that think that's how you analyze an oil filter. I truly like when they weigh one and claim because it is lite in weight it does not filter as good as.....????
They use no flow testing or any real-world analyses by testing on a flow bench for volume flow and introducing a specified test contamination and measure the particles caught and the maximum before the filter is either full and no longer filters oil or goes into the bypass? But you watch the video and think it is empirical in nature all the time filling their pocket with viewing points and money. LOL 3)ROCK AUTO uses the worst parts application guide in the business. Even more so than chain store auto parts. Remember that these programs designed to look up the correct parts are seldom updated as fast as they should be and often are behind by several months or more for older application settling. OK everyone raises your hands how many times you got the wrong part from any auto parts supplier? YUP likely every person on this forum at least once!! 4) Not sure what you meant here.....why would an oil related site have technical information about oil filters? Maybe you just meant oil filter sites? IDK?? If you are refereeing to "The oil guy", the original owner sold the site and the new ones have IMHO, done less of keeping the reputation that site and the original owner intended and did well about providing of empirical data and information and it is no more than a site like this now. IMHO there are to many theorists and less real facts.
I should post this earlier....
One of the filters I will be using my MAZDA transmission cooler and spin on conversation filter is the same one used on the N/A Engine OEM MAZDA oil Filter. The line pressure going into the filter far exceeds any oil pressure that can come from the engine even the Turbocharged engine. Even if the oil pump pressure valve spring fractured and the pump exceeded normal operating oil engine oil pressures. Not the first time using a standard NONE boosted engine listed oil filter on a transmission remote spin on conversion. Hundreds of those are sold yearly using various spin on oil filters that simply are the correct thread. LOL. My personal preference for them is K&N. AMSOIL,, FRAM or Mobil 1. respectively.
I have also used a FRAM PH8A on many dual oil filter set up and never had both filters get HOT at the same time.
I should post this earlier....
One of the filters I will be using my MAZDA transmission cooler and spin on conversation filter is the same one used on the N/A Engine OEM MAZDA oil Filter. The line pressure going into the filter far exceeds any oil pressure that can come from the engine even the Turbocharged engine. Even if the oil pump pressure valve spring fractured and the pump exceeded normal operating oil engine oil pressures. Not the first time using a standard NONE boosted engine listed oil filter on a transmission remote spin on conversion. Hundreds of those are sold yearly using various spin on oil filters that simply are the correct thread. LOL. My personal preference for them is K&N. AMSOIL,, FRAM or Mobil 1. respectively.
I have also used a FRAM PH8A on many dual oil filter set up and never had both filters get HOT at the same time.
As far a oversize filters, common sense applies. The more area the better oil flow. The flow through a larger filter would usually be 'slower' and therefore more material would or could be trapped. An oversize filter would also be less likely to be in by-pass, or in by-pass for less time when oil is a freezing temperatures. (snow belt, Canada). how do I even start to correct most of that info???
Are you sure you can? Don't see how. It's basic science, the greater the area the more oil can pass through. At a given flow rate, the larger the area
the slower the oil will be moving. that means that some marginal particles that might pass will possibly be captured.
Both Mazda filters use the same gauge canisters so pressure isn't an issue under normal circumstances.
FYI toilet paper filters are still out there and available. Reportedly they work well, but the particular paper roll is the critical factor with that system.
Depending on the particular design dual filter system could have oil flow through one filter first or through one more than the other, so of course, one
could warm before the other. So?
Rant on.
Part of the reason for doing a "DRAIN PLUG" removing of the old oil is also to remove material or old fluid that settles to the bottom of the oil pan. There is little to NO windage in the lower part of the oil pan. Using those syphon type oil removal is some of the worst things you can do when doing a oil and filter service on an engine. This can clearly be seen from oil analysis.
BOTTOM LINE BAD IDEA!!!
Those were originally marketed to remove excess oil in sumps that were accidently over filled. And then someone thought about the idea to use them to cheat side stepping removing the drain plug during a SIMPLE oil change!!
Look into historical products offered from JC WHITNEY in the 60's.
You do you and I will do me. They have worked great for me over the years. As a side benefit I don't have to worry about issues with the drain plug, or pan stripping/leaking etc as it isn't being taken out and replaced over and over.
