Ok
Welcome to the forum

So for starters STOP replacing parts that are not checked to have been at fault or failed.
The term "FIX" is not accurate because it implies something is broken which there is not based on what you posted so far.
I may ask later why you change3d and did some of the DIY items you post above but don't tell me now because it does not matter without the question first answered below

So we need to start over as if this just started.
Basic questions:

Miles
Last shop service done and what was it and at what miles was it done? ..........I don't mean attempting to solve your current issue that may be another question later?


This next one is important to moving forward in possible cause of your descriptive performance of the engine and transmission.....
What were the DTCs and the state of the I/M monitors that the shop(s) found when scanning your ECU?

 

Based on your description of the problem and no one seems to be able to find the problem????
The first thing I would have gone for a test drive with you driving first so you could indicate what you are experiencing. Then I would do the test drive to verify what you felt.

Then after I did the basic ECU hunt ...... I may proceed with ......

One of the things to have look into is your drive-by-wire and the % of throttle at idle and as you push the pedal how that % changes. That unit effects how the ECU controls many aspects of your engine operation including throttle response. By using a Diagnostic scanning gauge (not a blue tooth POS) but a handheld med quality or better DIY home unit you can access the ECU and go to that area of operation and view it in real time. You can ten compare that with ignition timing and CAT temperature, IAT as well the knock sensor and all these can tell if they are not getting correct information to make a clean throttle response. If the DBW seems to be the issue it takes 2 minutes and simple tools to remove it for further diagnosis and easy replacement if that is the cause.


ok I am off for the day, closing the shop and heading home LOL

 

i think i have figured it out. I tried accelerating better by pressing harder on the gas coming off from parking. I noticed that by hot rodding for the first 2 minutes or so quiets down the engine and delivers a better drive for the rest of the trip. I think the computer adapts to your driving instantaneously.

 

The adaption or adaptive qualities of the ECU are so misunderstood. Your ECU basically is adapting every time you start your engine and drive.

what you did was simply achieving closed loop operation faster. Nothing really more than that. And if you continue to do that you will have some concerns in the future!

Oh and as for pressing harder on a drive-by-wire throttle makes no sense whatsoever? All you do when you actuate more foot to pedal position is change the % of Throttle body opening . This also sends various sensor information to the ECU which adjust several aspects of the engine operation like timing and fueling .

 

Yah I was gonna say the exact same thing. The car feels "weak" when it's freezing out since it shifts earlier to help warm up everything quickly. I go very easy on my car while it's in that phase.

 

Good for you my friend that is the way we all should do it!


The soft material in transmission do not do well until they are up to operating temperatures. The transmission higher wear factor is caused from not allowing the transmission fluid to warm up before driving normally and specifically on hills pulling a load or freeway speeds. Golley because cany people leave 5 minutes earlier for work and let the car warm up a little. LOL
The other reason that most do not know is the ECU adjust the Torque Management System. So by not letting the complete drive train ,engine, exhaust (CAT) and transmission first get into closed loop operation and then complete minimal required operating temperatures the ECU will protect the transmission and engine and this ECU adaptive calibration has the effect felt as not having the normal power.
The term Adaptive as in the phrase often not used correctly i.e. (the computer adapts to the drivers style) is so badly misunderstood and does not technically work that way. If fact the ECU is constantly "adapting" to the operating changes from the input of all the sensors. But that the DIY world of thinking.