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The noise is usually a miss aligned Throtle plate. Easy to remedy. The only thing is you need to be Abe to manual close the TB completely to better align it in the bore. And then reset the % open amount for idle speed. But not more then 18% registered with ignition on.
I would’nt worry to much anyway.. you and I both know you can’t make more CFM with larger TB then what the demand is needed. And that is more for WOT like drag raving And often going larger sacrifices good throtle response at lower engine speeds. And unless you do a ECU calibration for the larger TB ,,,,bla bla bla….
I still gotta say the intake looks really good. Did you Powdercoating it?
The intake was bought that way. It is powdercoated. The runners are far more straight than the factory manifold. The factory runners exit nearly 5 o'clock from the plenum.
I think this throttle body IS in fact too big. But I am having fun... 😝
The good news is all hondas of this generation, even the NSX, use the same injector at varying fuel pressures. Minus a few very specific models. A lot can be forced outside the ecu. It's dumb fuel injection. You might could run it with a Texas Instrument TI-86.
If I could find a vaccum controlled distributor, better things could happen.
This manifold and throttle body was less than $130. Playtime! (I also have whole 'nother throttle body identical to this one.) 😉
As far as alignment. Slam 2 sheets of receipt paper in it.
I know you know….. If the intake is smaller than the head port intake side you can blend port to eliminate an obvious head to intake issue . To many hot rudders exaggerate match porting and those that do most of the time can’t be measured on a DYNO with what we would call normal activities in a real world use. Now drag racing or WOT frequently on a road track then the slight improvements may give you an edge on a straight section of track.
The cutting and grinding is fine by me. But the 9 o'clock to 12 o'clock positions of every port might need filling. Which... I'm not sure it is worth the work.
After looking and thinking with a covid brain... looks like moving the mounting holes would fix it. Slot and fill the mounting holes for realignment.
I do actually treat manual vehicle throttles like rolling on-off switches. 😃 No formal training, I suppose...
Last edited by Mechanically Minded; Dec 27, 2025 at 09:57 PM.
Here I have marked where the mounting holes should have been. Black sharpie. Soooo... yes, I will fill these holes with JB Weld and re-drill them in the correct spot. That will correct the misalignment and hopefully not cause too much interference with the top of the block. Which I already worry about because of the heavy head milling.
I will most likely be belt sanding the bottom of the flange.