You would have paid $500 + to get it done as the fuel pump/filter is located in the gas tank.
I don't know where the fuel pressure regulator is, but the person checking should decifer this when testing fuel system.

 

ok, maybe they didn't do any of that then....it was just "thrown in" there.

I called the mechanic. he said he could check the EGR and the fuel pressure. also read the codes for freeze frame data and reproduce the conditions it happened at...but not until next week (he's quite far and I'm working so maybe next weekend).

in the mean time, I'll kind of monitor, maybe get some fuel cleaner or something? I've done a few bottles of techron as noted, but maybe another brand or type?

 

I haven't had the chance to take it in and see if there were any recalls/TSB that would relate to this. Is this usually a long process or something I need to make an appointment for or can I just walk in? Might try to do that tomorrow.

 

Eric:
I saw and heard your videos. In 1 and 2 I heard a miss fire. In 3 I heard a rumble that reminded me of a bad AC clutch bearing. I couldn't get anything out of 4.

I think the miss comes from a vacuum leak. When you take a corner there is some lateral momentum and that could push/ pull on things that are connected from the engine to the body. The air intake hose for example. So if there is a crack a pull could widen it and a push may close it.

You can take out the intake hose and inspect it. You have to bend it with moderate force to see cracks.

Since you have already put so much effort into that I suggest you try a vacuum leak test. It was suggested to you earlier but I did not see a response to it. There are several methods shown on Youtube.
There is one I really like: Pressurize the intake not higher than 10 psi and use soapy water every where around the intake hose, intake manifold, vacuum connections, intake manifold gaskets etc. Just don't get it on the computer and into wire harnesses. If you get bubbles somewhere there is your leak. Actually this one is by "shipo" in this board.
Another test involves blowing cigar smoke into the the intake.

I would replace all vacuum lines with new ones. You can buy 20' of hose from the reel cheaply enough. The rubber hardens over time and the ends shape themselves to the connectors. That loss of flex can lead to leaks. But I think yours is larger.

Also check if the intake runner control functions correctly. I believe your engine has that.

I had a major vacuum leak with the Windstar. In addition to that the IMRC dropped an actuator arm and some small bushings. It contributed to rough running.

I don't know if I hit this in the bulls eye. But a comprehensive vacuum leak test will either find the source or eliminate it as a potential cause.

Good luck!

 

thanks. i'll keep it in mind. I'm not mechanically inclined to do much more than spray carb cleaner to look for leaks. I've done that before, found nothing, a smoke test was done early on as well. I believe almost all the vacuum lines are new...i'll check again.

The mechanic thought it wasn't a vacuum leak since none of the codes were triggered at idle but under a load.

 

those clicks you hear is the turn signal BTW if that was the misfire you were hearing. i don't know if that was it, wouldn't know what it sounds like.

 

any thoughts on the oil leak? related or random? noticed a few oil spots in my parking spot. these are new.

 

I took it in to my tire guys to get the struts looked at (thump when i go on rough roads, etc). and they said the mounts were bad, the two top ones and said to get that fixed. The wishbone mount, when I had it hoisted up was new and didn't seem too bad (I believe this was the one they replaced a little over a year ago).

The mounts may explain the vibration and when I'm turning right. Do you think that maybe I'm getting some leaks or some other problems due to the mounts not being good causing the lean codes?

Maybe go with the AWR ones, then I can have someone put them in for me? Or should I let the mechanic order them?

 

AWR makes excellent motor mounts and suspension. If you can get them, do it. Mazda 6 - Suspension - AWR Racing Store
All Parts - Engine Mounts - Mazda6 - AWR Racing Store

The motor mounts may cause stress and extra flexing on your exhaust.

AWR CONTACT INFO: http://store.awrracing.com/pages/Contact-AWR.html

 

I'm still not ruling out clogged pre-cats. i saw a few threads on the other forum, especially regarding the cold start rumbling, rattling, etc.

I really wish that exhaust shop would have checked backpressure. Do mechanics usually do that kind of thing too? I'm taking it in tomorrow again to at least talk to them about the engine mounts.

i'm just wondering if the sound is due to the motor mount and maybe some exhuast systems flexing when cold (also notice it when I turn right) or the pre-cat.