Running Lean P0145 + P0141, already spent $900 trying to fix
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I've been re-reading your thread and on other forum. You have had misfires and lean codes. You have 105,000 miles on it.
You have changed 3 ignition coils and no spark plugs (although idiot flipper on other forum thought you changed them all and both---he skims alot but he is generally good).
I would have changed all the coils and all the spark plugs (with that mileage). What idiot changes coils without spark plugs is beyond me. One of the coils may have caused a misfire, but the spark plug associated with it might not be up to snuff and clogged. However, these causing a lean code is a puzzle.
You said you had a exhaust leak on your pre-cat?----did this get fixed? I am not as confident as you in your exhaust being fixed (welding an old pre-cat). However, with that mileage especially, a bad pre-cat can and does cause a mis-fire (Mazda recommends them changed @ 100,000 miles but they should last longer with proper spark). Misfires will screw up your pre-cats: Reasons For A Converter Failure . What is your current cel code? I believe you have changed one O2 sensor---- hopefully it was the first one on the exhaust stream.
The EGR is not suppose to kick in @ idle, however it does over 1,200 rpm or so. If you are hearing something there, get some one to take it apart and clean it (again it should be cleaned due to mileage).
Your tensioner could be shot at your mileage. If you replace the tensioner, change the belt. You have got a lot of things going on with high mileage. I don't really know what your solution is, but a few things need tending.
You have changed 3 ignition coils and no spark plugs (although idiot flipper on other forum thought you changed them all and both---he skims alot but he is generally good).
I would have changed all the coils and all the spark plugs (with that mileage). What idiot changes coils without spark plugs is beyond me. One of the coils may have caused a misfire, but the spark plug associated with it might not be up to snuff and clogged. However, these causing a lean code is a puzzle.
You said you had a exhaust leak on your pre-cat?----did this get fixed? I am not as confident as you in your exhaust being fixed (welding an old pre-cat). However, with that mileage especially, a bad pre-cat can and does cause a mis-fire (Mazda recommends them changed @ 100,000 miles but they should last longer with proper spark). Misfires will screw up your pre-cats: Reasons For A Converter Failure . What is your current cel code? I believe you have changed one O2 sensor---- hopefully it was the first one on the exhaust stream.
The EGR is not suppose to kick in @ idle, however it does over 1,200 rpm or so. If you are hearing something there, get some one to take it apart and clean it (again it should be cleaned due to mileage).
Your tensioner could be shot at your mileage. If you replace the tensioner, change the belt. You have got a lot of things going on with high mileage. I don't really know what your solution is, but a few things need tending.
I actually changed all the plugs and coils over a year ago (just posted that over there), which is why I was wondering why the dealership wanted to change 3 of them out on my most recent trip to them. Never felt any misfires either for that last time which was puzzling but I thought it would fix it because I didn't really know any better (know a lot more since then).
The dealer said there was an exhaust leak near the front Catalytic Converter. I took it to several exhaust/muffler places who checked it out and said it was there but it was too hard to get to for them to do and to have a mechanic take it out. When I brought it in to a mechanic recommended by one of the exhaust places, he said that the bolt/stud broke that was holding the exhaust manifold and he drilled out and replaced all the bolt and gaskets. This solved a deep rattle I was getting He said he didn't need to do any welding.
I believe the code I'm getting is 0174. I may drop in this weekend just to get the codes read and freeze frame data.
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Please double check that exhaust leak. A leak around that pre-cat will cause it to give you a lean code.
Any time you change a ign coil, you should also change the spark plug. Since all were changed a year ago, 3 is acceptable.
Any time you change a ign coil, you should also change the spark plug. Since all were changed a year ago, 3 is acceptable.
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mechanic checked again last weekend for an exhaust leak, said there wasn't one. I'll monitor again or bring it in for a second opinion on the exhaust leak. I'll try to take some videos tomorrow in the AM but probably won't get to upload to tomorrow night. thanks again, its pretty aggravating trying to find out what's going on. I think there may be multiple issues I just need to tackle one by one.
this weekend I will try to hit up the dealer to run the VIN on thecomputer if there's any recall or whatever that i missed.
this weekend I will try to hit up the dealer to run the VIN on thecomputer if there's any recall or whatever that i missed.
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The EGR is not suppose to kick in @ idle, however it does over 1,200 rpm or so. If you are hearing something there, get some one to take it apart and clean it (again it should be cleaned due to mileage).
Your tensioner could be shot at your mileage. If you replace the tensioner, change the belt.
You have got a lot of things going on with high mileage. I don't really know what your solution is, but a few things need tending. Did you check your accordian tube on intake for cracks? A bad brake booster will cause a lean code (it leaks internally and is hard to detect---you have to actually wait until once or twice you lose power brakes).
When changing plugs or coils on rear bank closest to firewall, intake plenum must be removed, I hope he changed the 6 green intake plenum seals--see pic (like this: OES Genuine W0133-1639826 Intake Plenum Gasket | Auto Parts Warehouse )along with the rubber seal between the throttle body and intake manifold (like this: Mahle W0133-1807640 Throttle Body Gasket | Auto Parts Warehouse .
Your tensioner could be shot at your mileage. If you replace the tensioner, change the belt.
You have got a lot of things going on with high mileage. I don't really know what your solution is, but a few things need tending. Did you check your accordian tube on intake for cracks? A bad brake booster will cause a lean code (it leaks internally and is hard to detect---you have to actually wait until once or twice you lose power brakes).
When changing plugs or coils on rear bank closest to firewall, intake plenum must be removed, I hope he changed the 6 green intake plenum seals--see pic (like this: OES Genuine W0133-1639826 Intake Plenum Gasket | Auto Parts Warehouse )along with the rubber seal between the throttle body and intake manifold (like this: Mahle W0133-1807640 Throttle Body Gasket | Auto Parts Warehouse .
The accordian tube has been checked for leaks. Its actually not an accordian tube anymore, I had it changed out since it did have a crack a while ago which caused another lean condition.
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What about the Serpentine Belt tensioner replacement? I just don't want to replace something and have absolutely nothing change (like I did with the first mechanic and the dealership), which is why I'll get some video and maybe see if people see that as a potential issue going on.
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The belt and/or tensioner could make noise. If you never had a belt changed, then do it. Maybe they could better inspect the tensioner at that time, not sure on labor implications though of going there twice if tensioner is no good and they don't stock one (nice if they stocked one).
Quote from: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...s-28047/page2/ "The belt has steel core in it and when it wears down the metal starts to rub on the pulleys. My '06 had same noise with 85000 on it, changed belts, no more squeek."
Quote from tanprotege "The drive belt(s) must be tightened to spec (Haynes manual). What also happens is that the pulleys get polished by the belts to the point where they have no sufficient friction and the belts slip. Belt dressing helps only a few times. Some have taken sand paper to the pulley grooves to roughen them a bit. Find out which pulley the belt slips on and give that pulley the sandpaper treatment."
This method may be more accurate for the older style V-groove (not multigroove).
EGR VALVE: I would have your EGR Valve cleaned. There could be crap in there preventing your EGR from fully closing. Proper way to do it is to remove it, taking it apart, sparaying cleaner in there and leaving it in there for 10 minutes, getting rid of liquid. Trying to get something in there like a toothbrush to wipe crap away as well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMkx_utiGGc
Quote from: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...s-28047/page2/ "The belt has steel core in it and when it wears down the metal starts to rub on the pulleys. My '06 had same noise with 85000 on it, changed belts, no more squeek."
Quote from tanprotege "The drive belt(s) must be tightened to spec (Haynes manual). What also happens is that the pulleys get polished by the belts to the point where they have no sufficient friction and the belts slip. Belt dressing helps only a few times. Some have taken sand paper to the pulley grooves to roughen them a bit. Find out which pulley the belt slips on and give that pulley the sandpaper treatment."
This method may be more accurate for the older style V-groove (not multigroove).
EGR VALVE: I would have your EGR Valve cleaned. There could be crap in there preventing your EGR from fully closing. Proper way to do it is to remove it, taking it apart, sparaying cleaner in there and leaving it in there for 10 minutes, getting rid of liquid. Trying to get something in there like a toothbrush to wipe crap away as well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMkx_utiGGc
Last edited by UseYourNoggin; Jan 26, 2012 at 09:09 AM. Reason: EGR, video
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Video while driving. The audio on this mounted camera in the car isn't very good. Maybe you can hear some of the rumble/growl in there.
Video: Mazda6 Rumbling noise after cold start. Acceleration. - YouTube
Turning right (it makes more of a sound when I turn right and the rumble goes away when I go left) into a freeway. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkV7A...ykrVhZnnln8HNP
(more coming)
Engine close up. Cold start. I put it in drive about halfway through.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usX2j...6rppV61z_0AA-p
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1m1BZdQCxY&
Video: Mazda6 Rumbling noise after cold start. Acceleration. - YouTube
Turning right (it makes more of a sound when I turn right and the rumble goes away when I go left) into a freeway. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkV7A...ykrVhZnnln8HNP
(more coming)
Engine close up. Cold start. I put it in drive about halfway through.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usX2j...6rppV61z_0AA-p
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1m1BZdQCxY&
Last edited by xericx; Jan 26, 2012 at 01:33 PM.
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I will get my exhaust checked out tomorrow. Going to try to see about the exhaust leak and also if there's a clogged pre-cat if they can check that. will update tomorrow.
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took it in to exhaust/muffler place to check out the exhaust system. Said he could not see any exhaust leak, he even used a fan to cool the engine and all the pipes down. He did run the codescan and found both 171 and 174 codes again. He thought it might be a fuel delivery issue or something cracked. He said he wasn't sure though, as there are a lot of things that can cause it.
regarding the noise when I'm turning, he said that sounded like the struts or a suspension issue.
He did say that the wishbone engine mount, while it was a new one, seemed weak.
Also had a slight oil leak. doesn't really pool up under the car at all.
said the car seems to be running fine.
regarding the noise when I'm turning, he said that sounded like the struts or a suspension issue.
He did say that the wishbone engine mount, while it was a new one, seemed weak.
Also had a slight oil leak. doesn't really pool up under the car at all.
said the car seems to be running fine.
Last edited by xericx; Jan 27, 2012 at 12:18 PM.
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Already covered most issues in previous posts.
You cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor? (re-set ECU after)
Did you change O2 sensor on side that exhaust leaked?
Try putting in Fuel System Cleaner to clean injectors which will deliver possibly more and better fuel dispersion.
If something is cracked shouldn't you be smelling fuel?
The real test on driveability is to floor it while going on highway (if it bogs down, pre-cats are still in play)----- I would not recommend doing this yet until above at least are done.
You cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor? (re-set ECU after)
Did you change O2 sensor on side that exhaust leaked?
Try putting in Fuel System Cleaner to clean injectors which will deliver possibly more and better fuel dispersion.
If something is cracked shouldn't you be smelling fuel?
The real test on driveability is to floor it while going on highway (if it bogs down, pre-cats are still in play)----- I would not recommend doing this yet until above at least are done.
Last edited by UseYourNoggin; Jan 27, 2012 at 12:28 PM.