Update: Its been a while but still not fixed. I have been looking for another good shop to take a diagnosis. Found a place actually near me which is easier logistically for me to get to, but they charge for the diagnosis. At this point I don't care as long as they fix or find the problem.

Car is there right now. They are pretty stumped, they've done a smoke test found no vacuum leaks and are doing something with propane and an ossciliscope and checking everything in the car (its a smog guy who's in a mechanic shop doing the diagnosis I believe). they noted all the parts replaced, will look at fuel system and everything else. The delay is I needed a day not on a weekend to do it and this is the first opportunity i got. will hopefully have an update in a few hours.

I've asked them to check these things mentioned so they're doing so.

 

I must have missed this. I do have a radiator leak (no fluid accumulation but they said there is one and there are signs of leaks) that I am putting off to fix after I figure out the lean codes.

I don't know how this all ties in together.....any thoughts?

 

The guy couldn't figure it out and gave up. Says he can't get the LTFT to drop with propane or something?

no charge but he said to take it to the dealer.... which I am going to do I guess.....different one that I've used before, they quoted $50 for the diagnosis (I didn't have to pay today since they couldn't figure it out...says it happens about 2 times a year with these codes). I'll only do the diagnosis, no work. I spoke to the guy, found no leaks, used propane to try to change the RPMs I guess and smoke test as well. They said there was something on the throttle body that was slightly leaking but they fixed it, but still couldn't get the LTFT to change. Also noticed the long screw on my MAF ( ).

I mentioned when I brought it in the EGR, fuel pressure, fuel injectors, intake plenum, issues (I got the feeling they didn't check the fuel pressure).

oh yeah, and triggered p0335 (pending), crankshaft position sensor? says that isn't related to the lean codes though.

 

Dealer service says recommending changing the fuel pump. Fuel pressure was at 50Psi, spec is about 64-75 or something. The recommendation says to replace and them and the MAF too and to retest it....not really a gleaming recommendation.

However the service advisor didn't know the filter and pump were one unit.....he seemed pretty green. They checked the brake booster, which they said was fine. I'll know more when i get the notes

Price: $900+ (only fuel pump), if the MAF is bad, I got that replaced at the mechanic and I'll just have them give me a new one.

I thought that was way too much, I'm going to call around and price shop. any thoughts?

 

You were thinking about the fuel on Post #22. You had some other issues as well and we tried to make sure those issues were solved first. I finally did say check your fuel pressure on Post #42. I knew the fuel pump is not cheap (Post #47) and wanted to try other things first.
I would shop around. The fuel pump is in the gas tank under the rear seat (access is there).

 

Yeah, I asked several mechanics to check fuel pressure, but some didn't want to (said they didn't have the equiptment) or didn't take the time too, I guess I need to be more forceful with what I want them to do I guess. I hope this solves it...I'll call around but I need to get it done as my tags expire this month and I need a smog.

I'll post more of the service notes later when I get home (still waiting, have been here for 7 hours and its relatively dead in the waiting room). I guess the tech had to call up Mazda Service support or something like that.

Called a few guys around town:

Quote 1: Mechanic said $780 for the part alone, said probably sourcing from the dealer. (he estimated before calling his parts guy about $500 total).

 

question: I got the car back but it seemed sluggish on acceleration. I think they reset the PCM. Would that be consistent with the weak fuel pump as the computer has not adjusted to compensate? just wondering. they're looking at it now.

edit: they said everything is hooked up correctly. They said they did reset the PCM. hopefully the fuel trims will compensate back soon.

Another thought, my fuel pressure was 20-25% low from the published values, and my LTFT were at 20.3% pretty consistently, wondering if that had any relation.

OK....yeah, Fuel pressure check was 50 and the spec was 63-73psi.

13/63 = 20.6%......

are there any other factors here that you can think of before I go ahead and get this done? Fuel Pressure Regulator?

 

OK, now I get P2197 (02 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean Bank 2, Sensor 1) and P0160 ( O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity). I went to try to drive it a bit to re-program the PCM....blah. i have to take my dad to the dentist in the AM too, I'm going to go to the dealership again to see what's going on with this, hopefully its just relearning, but it shouldn't be doing this?

 

Fuel Pressure Regulator-----it depends on how they did the fuel pressure test. I do like your thinking. If test was done before the fuel pressure regulator then it is your pump. If done after it could be either, more likely the pump. It's best to inquire and insist.
The stuck lean code makes sense since you are low on fuel pressure. P0160 not sure. Maybe they disturbed some wires. Get your fuel pressure fixed first.
However, you have enough miles on the car where the O2 sensor could be changed on Bank 2 Sensor 1 (which should be before the pre-cat on that side-----that is the sensor that monitors and gives info back to computer for the air/fuel ratio).
The O2 sensor has no bearing on your fuel pressure.
Run some more fuel cleaner thru it. Maybe they got some dirt in lines.

 

It drives better this AM. A little sluggish at times, but markedly improved since yesterday, still not comfortable with it.

I'm still tripping those two codes though. I looked online and it said if the O2 sensor was stuck it may trigger the p160 code as well.