What ho one and all,

I realise this is a somewhat stupid question but ...........!

Along with plenty of other things I intend to do with the car (fit a reversing camera / ensure that as many nuts bolts can be released without stripping them, put some under-seal inside the bottom door seams) I also intend to remove all the under body splash seals and after cleaning, apply some anti-rust or unde-rseal.

But may stupid question is, why are there so many different fixings? If the plastic fasteners are good for some of the shields, why not all? Those bolts that rust, surely they could be plastic fasteners into a plastic clip which obviously, would not rust.

Or may be it is to do with, "Let's make cars that will rust!"

 

The metal fasteners are to insure that the cover will not completely come off in case of mishaps. The plastic fasteners are not reliable if they are not kept up by way on cleaning the underside of the vehicle occasionally which is not very common with Dailey driving vehicle in general. The other issue is once they have been removed even using the proper tool which most DIY do not own they never really go back as securely as originally installed. And once again to find a DIY with a box of various plastic fasteners is another not like likely item to add.

Besides preventing rust really goes back to first basic maintenance of regularly pressure washing the underside of the vehicle occasionally which, chassis, suspension ,exhaust and everything else . Naturally using DIY rattle can under coating is always a great insurance to prevent excessive rust to form but it must be applied before the wet season or you could actually start a rust issue.

Having owned many British cars from the 50s, 60’ and 70’ I learned early on what effort it takes to protect a car from rusting.
I am sure some know the dreaded sill sag

 

But then I think I sorta explained about plastic fasteners on your other thread…


https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...68/#post234374

 

Thanks and yes, you did explain about the plastic fasteners. Guess my point was more rhetorical. On my previous car, which did not have under-body shields, the wheel arch liners had two sizes of small bolts and a couple of cross-head screws of differing sizes. Always wondered, why not make them all the same? The point of mass production is to reduce manufacturing costs; mix and match fixings on the shields will not achieve that (in my opinion.)

Am planning to install some mud flaps (home made from 3mm rubber sheet)) so have bought a set of fasteners. Not up to your standard but will do the job.

 

Many platforms utilize basic body parts to accept
variable model options. That said some options need or require different and mixed fasteners. That is why no standardization of fasteners.

I appreciate most all DIY ingenuity in coming up with ideas and useing non conventional parts to achieve a purpose and end result. So technically
speaking I don’t really have a bar set for standards .

However I must use and have higher standards when it comes to servicing customers vehicles. I hope you understand the difference? I also try to post the best quality and fact supporting information that better helps members .

 

I'm sure you are in a minority with regards to the kind of work that one can get from the average garage. With my previous car (2003 Ford Mondeo mk3) this was one reason I started doing work myself. Took it to the local garage for some minor work and not only did they tear the wheel arch liner in regassing the a/c (the port is in the front arch, behind the liner. The liner does have a kinda 'cut out' hinge but they just torn it open); they also broke the glove box dampener and then wanted to charge me £40 to realign the windscreen washer jets.

So I started doing the work myself and reckon that I did a better job than any garage. When replacing the crank pulley, and needed to remove the wheel arch liner, I not only cleaned under the arch but also applied underseal. The average garage will not do that. But it is my car and I intend to look after it.

So I will be removing all the under-body splash guards, cleaning any accumulated dirt, fixing any rust and again, applying some underseal. Also intend to run some Wazyol into the lower door seams and into virtually any hole in the subframe.

 

Just careful not to cover those holes in your door cavity there are there to prevent corrosion and rust and are not meant to be blocked.

 

Thanks and yes, I do know that. When I get around to it, my intention is to remove the inner door panel and whatever is attached to the door, to allow me to get a small paint brush into the cavity / seam. Did it before on my Ford and in 18 years of ownership, never had a spot of rust on the door seams.

 

Wait until you see behind the door panel.... I do wish you all the luck in weather proofing your Mazda doors.

Hopefully you have factory speaking cavities in the door so you can get to the inner door cavity .

 

We shall see in due course. From the photos I have seen, removing the speaker should provide access. If not, then try to squirt the Waxoyl in via the drain holes. Only needs a small amount to gradually seep into the seam.