Need a little Advice
#11
07-07-2008, 12:23 AM
RE: Need a little Advice
"...remember Mazda is part of Ford"How can I forget? I'm bombarded with the great "FoMoCo" logo throughout these cars every time I put them on a lift hehe.
You know, that is by far, in conjunction with reading the article you gave me a link for, the best possible answer I could have asked for. => I had no clue about that, and I now have a more educated perspective on viscosities and what to base your choice on. Told you I learn more every day hehe.
Funny how in technical highlights or training on a particular model (I haven't been to Mazda's sit-in classes yetjust done online training), they don't mention these detailsI as a technician, evidently, need to take a look at the owner's manual for more than just maintenance intervals. Thank you! =>
You know, that is by far, in conjunction with reading the article you gave me a link for, the best possible answer I could have asked for. => I had no clue about that, and I now have a more educated perspective on viscosities and what to base your choice on. Told you I learn more every day hehe.
Funny how in technical highlights or training on a particular model (I haven't been to Mazda's sit-in classes yetjust done online training), they don't mention these detailsI as a technician, evidently, need to take a look at the owner's manual for more than just maintenance intervals. Thank you! =>
#12
07-07-2008, 06:07 PM
RE: Need a little Advice
ORIGINAL: MazdaTechie
"... Running dino pennzoil 5w30"
I don't understand why you would run 5w30 instead of the 5w20 that the motor calls for...? Engineers determine the viscosity necessary for a motor based on clearances for bearings, valves, etc. Smaller clearances require a thinner oil. Just the same, if you put 5w20 in an older Mazda designed to take 10w30, you'll get a loud tick in your valve train because the motor has bigger clearances designed for a thicker oil. What motivated your choice for 30 weight?
"... Running dino pennzoil 5w30"
I don't understand why you would run 5w30 instead of the 5w20 that the motor calls for...? Engineers determine the viscosity necessary for a motor based on clearances for bearings, valves, etc. Smaller clearances require a thinner oil. Just the same, if you put 5w20 in an older Mazda designed to take 10w30, you'll get a loud tick in your valve train because the motor has bigger clearances designed for a thicker oil. What motivated your choice for 30 weight?
#13
07-07-2008, 06:29 PM
RE: Need a little Advice
Post #9 of this thread, however the beginning is actually part of Urbanman's sig.
And yes, the NA 3's take 5w-20 while the Speed3's take 5w-30. But as UB has pointed out, the owners manual states that over certain ambient temperatures (like Arizona in the summertime) Mazda recommends using the higher weight 5w-30 in the NA's too. I sometimes run 5-30 here in Texas too... but not the dino stuff.
#14
07-07-2008, 08:46 PM
RE: Need a little Advice
i am currently using kendall full synthetic 10w-30....the guy said it was fine and since its hot here i guess it is but then again i didn't like the fact that after me telling them not to put 10w in it they still did. O well.
#15
07-08-2008, 08:11 PM
RE: Need a little Advice
ORIGINAL: MazdaTechie
"...remember Mazda is part of Ford"How can I forget? I'm bombarded with the great "FoMoCo" logo throughout these cars every time I put them on a lift hehe.
You know, that is by far, in conjunction with reading the article you gave me a link for, the best possible answer I could have asked for. => I had no clue about that, and I now have a more educated perspective on viscosities and what to base your choice on. Told you I learn more every day hehe.
Funny how in technical highlights or training on a particular model (I haven't been to Mazda's sit-in classes yetjust done online training), they don't mention these detailsI as a technician, evidently, need to take a look at the owner's manual for more than just maintenance intervals. Thank you! =>
"...remember Mazda is part of Ford"How can I forget? I'm bombarded with the great "FoMoCo" logo throughout these cars every time I put them on a lift hehe.
You know, that is by far, in conjunction with reading the article you gave me a link for, the best possible answer I could have asked for. => I had no clue about that, and I now have a more educated perspective on viscosities and what to base your choice on. Told you I learn more every day hehe.
Funny how in technical highlights or training on a particular model (I haven't been to Mazda's sit-in classes yetjust done online training), they don't mention these detailsI as a technician, evidently, need to take a look at the owner's manual for more than just maintenance intervals. Thank you! =>
Skeptic that I (sometimes) am, I don't think Ford/Mazda are terribly interested in helping me get 120K+ miles out of my engine (they'd rather see it blow at 80K so I have to buy a new vehicle). Except of course the tune changesif thedealer can make some cash doing needless maintenance, then their willing to scream how much they care about my M3 ... ie. suggesting changing the tranny/differential fluid at 30K?
#16
07-09-2008, 11:48 AM
RE: Need a little Advice
Dang Guys, I could never have asked for a better forum of people to gain advice and knowledge on my Mazda 3....WOW!
Ok so to follow up, on the oil thing...I use to use 10w30 all the time in my subbie with no regard as to how it effected my engine...that's some great knowledge and I'm going to read that article shortly. So in my Mazda 3 it would probably be best since I live here in NC in the mountains to constantly run 5w20 and then if I like synthetic. so question here is What is this Dino that your talking about? is it a more sport oriented oil for higher RPM applications?
Now with regard to cleaning the car. I have noticed that on my interior that if I hit my knuckles or rub them on the door panels and the front dash that it leaves wet marks...these don't seem to come off with a microfiber and water, for I can still see where the smudges were. can I use like an Armorall cleaner or something of the sorts to get them off, and also would it be advisable to armor all the interior when I wash it about every or every other month to help with UV damage and so on? also I was always told to try my best never to wax a car in the summertime, so that would leave a late spring waxing to be picked up sometime then in the fall? or maybe just the 1 time a year wax like suggested.
K now I have another question haha, it seems you all have a good knowledge of what your talking about so I'm going to pick your brains a little lol. I just hit about 900 miles on my BEAUTIFUL CAR!! I love this car already and haven't even had it 1k miles yet. but I was told to be easy-ish on it till about 1k. but another person in here says that after 500 drive it like im going to drive. well my thing is I fluctuate lol. I plan on autocrossing but not until my 100k warranty is void. and plus Im not wanting to trip that stupid little POS ECU when I found out about that at the dealer i was ....well crap!!!! so I will do normal driving mainly like i have been but with the occasional run after a dang camaro or some red neck here in the mountains that thinks just because they have a 6 cylinder or more that they can beat me in the curves...I love their faces when they lose...so I will be "driving" it as well as being casual. how will this effect the car in general you feel? btw I'm not talking about red lining I never do that unless by accident.
Ok so to follow up, on the oil thing...I use to use 10w30 all the time in my subbie with no regard as to how it effected my engine...that's some great knowledge and I'm going to read that article shortly. So in my Mazda 3 it would probably be best since I live here in NC in the mountains to constantly run 5w20 and then if I like synthetic. so question here is What is this Dino that your talking about? is it a more sport oriented oil for higher RPM applications?
Now with regard to cleaning the car. I have noticed that on my interior that if I hit my knuckles or rub them on the door panels and the front dash that it leaves wet marks...these don't seem to come off with a microfiber and water, for I can still see where the smudges were. can I use like an Armorall cleaner or something of the sorts to get them off, and also would it be advisable to armor all the interior when I wash it about every or every other month to help with UV damage and so on? also I was always told to try my best never to wax a car in the summertime, so that would leave a late spring waxing to be picked up sometime then in the fall? or maybe just the 1 time a year wax like suggested.
K now I have another question haha, it seems you all have a good knowledge of what your talking about so I'm going to pick your brains a little lol. I just hit about 900 miles on my BEAUTIFUL CAR!! I love this car already and haven't even had it 1k miles yet. but I was told to be easy-ish on it till about 1k. but another person in here says that after 500 drive it like im going to drive. well my thing is I fluctuate lol. I plan on autocrossing but not until my 100k warranty is void. and plus Im not wanting to trip that stupid little POS ECU when I found out about that at the dealer i was ....well crap!!!! so I will do normal driving mainly like i have been but with the occasional run after a dang camaro or some red neck here in the mountains that thinks just because they have a 6 cylinder or more that they can beat me in the curves...I love their faces when they lose...so I will be "driving" it as well as being casual. how will this effect the car in general you feel? btw I'm not talking about red lining I never do that unless by accident.
#17
07-09-2008, 03:59 PM
RE: Need a little Advice
Dang Joe, you are about my neighbor, I am over the hill in Knoxville.
As for the Dino, that is the oil actually made of Fossils, AKA Petroleum.
BTW I run Motorcraft 5w-20 in mine, it is Semi Synthetic and since I change my oil about every 5 weeks it is affordable also.
As For Waxing, as long as the vehicle is cool, sort of like after you wash it and it is not in the Direct sun waxing it anytime of the year is fine. If I am expecting it to be hot I start earlier, but then again I do mine in my garage also [8D]
As for the Dino, that is the oil actually made of Fossils, AKA Petroleum.
BTW I run Motorcraft 5w-20 in mine, it is Semi Synthetic and since I change my oil about every 5 weeks it is affordable also.
As For Waxing, as long as the vehicle is cool, sort of like after you wash it and it is not in the Direct sun waxing it anytime of the year is fine. If I am expecting it to be hot I start earlier, but then again I do mine in my garage also [8D]
#18
07-09-2008, 10:27 PM
RE: Need a little Advice
ORIGINAL: Apple
Dang Guys, I could never have asked for a better forum of people to gain advice and knowledge on my Mazda 3....WOW!
Ok so to follow up, on the oil thing...I use to use 10w30 all the time in my subbie with no regard as to how it effected my engine...that's some great knowledge and I'm going to read that article shortly. So in my Mazda 3 it would probably be best since I live here in NC in the mountains to constantly run 5w20 and then if I like synthetic. so question here is What is this Dino that your talking about? is it a more sport oriented oil for higher RPM applications?
Now with regard to cleaning the car. I have noticed that on my interior that if I hit my knuckles or rub them on the door panels and the front dash that it leaves wet marks...these don't seem to come off with a microfiber and water, for I can still see where the smudges were. can I use like an Armorall cleaner or something of the sorts to get them off, and also would it be advisable to armor all the interior when I wash it about every or every other month to help with UV damage and so on? also I was always told to try my best never to wax a car in the summertime, so that would leave a late spring waxing to be picked up sometime then in the fall? or maybe just the 1 time a year wax like suggested.
K now I have another question haha, it seems you all have a good knowledge of what your talking about so I'm going to pick your brains a little lol. I just hit about 900 miles on my BEAUTIFUL CAR!! I love this car already and haven't even had it 1k miles yet. but I was told to be easy-ish on it till about 1k. but another person in here says that after 500 drive it like im going to drive. well my thing is I fluctuate lol. I plan on autocrossing but not until my 100k warranty is void. and plus Im not wanting to trip that stupid little POS ECU when I found out about that at the dealer i was ....well crap!!!! so I will do normal driving mainly like i have been but with the occasional run after a dang camaro or some red neck here in the mountains that thinks just because they have a 6 cylinder or more that they can beat me in the curves...I love their faces when they lose...so I will be "driving" it as well as being casual. how will this effect the car in general you feel? btw I'm not talking about red lining I never do that unless by accident.
Dang Guys, I could never have asked for a better forum of people to gain advice and knowledge on my Mazda 3....WOW!
Ok so to follow up, on the oil thing...I use to use 10w30 all the time in my subbie with no regard as to how it effected my engine...that's some great knowledge and I'm going to read that article shortly. So in my Mazda 3 it would probably be best since I live here in NC in the mountains to constantly run 5w20 and then if I like synthetic. so question here is What is this Dino that your talking about? is it a more sport oriented oil for higher RPM applications?
Now with regard to cleaning the car. I have noticed that on my interior that if I hit my knuckles or rub them on the door panels and the front dash that it leaves wet marks...these don't seem to come off with a microfiber and water, for I can still see where the smudges were. can I use like an Armorall cleaner or something of the sorts to get them off, and also would it be advisable to armor all the interior when I wash it about every or every other month to help with UV damage and so on? also I was always told to try my best never to wax a car in the summertime, so that would leave a late spring waxing to be picked up sometime then in the fall? or maybe just the 1 time a year wax like suggested.
K now I have another question haha, it seems you all have a good knowledge of what your talking about so I'm going to pick your brains a little lol. I just hit about 900 miles on my BEAUTIFUL CAR!! I love this car already and haven't even had it 1k miles yet. but I was told to be easy-ish on it till about 1k. but another person in here says that after 500 drive it like im going to drive. well my thing is I fluctuate lol. I plan on autocrossing but not until my 100k warranty is void. and plus Im not wanting to trip that stupid little POS ECU when I found out about that at the dealer i was ....well crap!!!! so I will do normal driving mainly like i have been but with the occasional run after a dang camaro or some red neck here in the mountains that thinks just because they have a 6 cylinder or more that they can beat me in the curves...I love their faces when they lose...so I will be "driving" it as well as being casual. how will this effect the car in general you feel? btw I'm not talking about red lining I never do that unless by accident.
I wouldn't use 10w30 (my opinion),very thick, your not getting great lubrication at start up - your not running an old V8. I like 5w30, except if its cold - under 40F, then I might relent and use 5w20.
Red lining by accident? Your driving, if it happens, its not an "accident" is it? There is NEVER a benefit to driving the p#ss out of your engine, no matter what the mileage, but especially if your engine is close to new. If you have to, make sure your engine is good and warm before you punch the s##t out of it. Anything above 4500 rpm is hard driving IMO, especially if its hot out (over 80F), and especially if hills/mountains are involved.
#19
07-09-2008, 11:11 PM
RE: Need a little Advice
the optimum power for our car is at 6k right? after that your just revving it up for no reason even though it redlines at 7? I reved it up to 7 today and i didn't realize it till i looked down.[:-]
#20
07-10-2008, 12:18 AM
RE: Need a little Advice
Hey Joe,
Here's what the owner's manual states about the break in period:
No special break-in is necessary, but a few precautions in the first 1,000 km (600 miles) may add to the performance, economy, and life of your Mazda.[align=left][ul][*]Don't race the engine.[*]Don't maintain one constant speed, either slow or fast, for a long period of time.[*]Don't drive constantly at full-throttle or high engine rpm for extended periods of time.[*]Avoid unnecessary hard stops.[*]Avoid full-throttle starts.[/ul]It only makes sense to apply car wax under the most ideal conditions; when both the physical temperature of your car and the surrounding temperature are low so that you get an even coat of wax application (wax is a heat-sensitive substance). If you have an enclosed garage, that would be a good area to wax your car so that you avoid gusts of wind blowing dirt and other abrasive substances onto the wax as you apply it. I think that car waxing is a procedure that doesn't need to be done frequently as long as it's done properly. A glossy exterior from frequent waxing isn't necessarily an indication of a "healthy" clear coat or paint, no more than a white smile is necessarily an indication of a healthy set of teeth and gums (pardon the analogy).
These are just suggestions, based on what has worked for me, for you to consider.
I completely feel your excitement and pride in your car; I still feel the same about mine after 14 months of ownership! The fact that you are seeking advice and learning as much about you can about car care and maintenance is a good sign. I'm sure you will be enjoying your 3 for a very long time.
[/align]
Here's what the owner's manual states about the break in period:
No special break-in is necessary, but a few precautions in the first 1,000 km (600 miles) may add to the performance, economy, and life of your Mazda.[align=left][ul][*]Don't race the engine.[*]Don't maintain one constant speed, either slow or fast, for a long period of time.[*]Don't drive constantly at full-throttle or high engine rpm for extended periods of time.[*]Avoid unnecessary hard stops.[*]Avoid full-throttle starts.[/ul]It only makes sense to apply car wax under the most ideal conditions; when both the physical temperature of your car and the surrounding temperature are low so that you get an even coat of wax application (wax is a heat-sensitive substance). If you have an enclosed garage, that would be a good area to wax your car so that you avoid gusts of wind blowing dirt and other abrasive substances onto the wax as you apply it. I think that car waxing is a procedure that doesn't need to be done frequently as long as it's done properly. A glossy exterior from frequent waxing isn't necessarily an indication of a "healthy" clear coat or paint, no more than a white smile is necessarily an indication of a healthy set of teeth and gums (pardon the analogy).
These are just suggestions, based on what has worked for me, for you to consider.
I completely feel your excitement and pride in your car; I still feel the same about mine after 14 months of ownership! The fact that you are seeking advice and learning as much about you can about car care and maintenance is a good sign. I'm sure you will be enjoying your 3 for a very long time.
[/align]
ORIGINAL: Apple
Dang Guys, I could never have asked for a better forum of people to gain advice and knowledge on my Mazda 3....WOW!
Ok so to follow up, on the oil thing...I use to use 10w30 all the time in my subbie with no regard as to how it effected my engine...that's some great knowledge and I'm going to read that article shortly. So in my Mazda 3 it would probably be best since I live here in NC in the mountains to constantly run 5w20 and then if I like synthetic. so question here is What is this Dino that your talking about? is it a more sport oriented oil for higher RPM applications?
Now with regard to cleaning the car. I have noticed that on my interior that if I hit my knuckles or rub them on the door panels and the front dash that it leaves wet marks...these don't seem to come off with a microfiber and water, for I can still see where the smudges were. can I use like an Armorall cleaner or something of the sorts to get them off, and also would it be advisable to armor all the interior when I wash it about every or every other month to help with UV damage and so on? also I was always told to try my best never to wax a car in the summertime, so that would leave a late spring waxing to be picked up sometime then in the fall? or maybe just the 1 time a year wax like suggested.
K now I have another question haha, it seems you all have a good knowledge of what your talking about so I'm going to pick your brains a little lol. I just hit about 900 miles on my BEAUTIFUL CAR!! I love this car already and haven't even had it 1k miles yet. but I was told to be easy-ish on it till about 1k. but another person in here says that after 500 drive it like im going to drive. well my thing is I fluctuate lol. I plan on autocrossing but not until my 100k warranty is void. and plus Im not wanting to trip that stupid little POS ECU when I found out about that at the dealer i was ....well crap!!!! so I will do normal driving mainly like i have been but with the occasional run after a dang camaro or some red neck here in the mountains that thinks just because they have a 6 cylinder or more that they can beat me in the curves...I love their faces when they lose...so I will be "driving" it as well as being casual. how will this effect the car in general you feel? btw I'm not talking about red lining I never do that unless by accident.
Dang Guys, I could never have asked for a better forum of people to gain advice and knowledge on my Mazda 3....WOW!
Ok so to follow up, on the oil thing...I use to use 10w30 all the time in my subbie with no regard as to how it effected my engine...that's some great knowledge and I'm going to read that article shortly. So in my Mazda 3 it would probably be best since I live here in NC in the mountains to constantly run 5w20 and then if I like synthetic. so question here is What is this Dino that your talking about? is it a more sport oriented oil for higher RPM applications?
Now with regard to cleaning the car. I have noticed that on my interior that if I hit my knuckles or rub them on the door panels and the front dash that it leaves wet marks...these don't seem to come off with a microfiber and water, for I can still see where the smudges were. can I use like an Armorall cleaner or something of the sorts to get them off, and also would it be advisable to armor all the interior when I wash it about every or every other month to help with UV damage and so on? also I was always told to try my best never to wax a car in the summertime, so that would leave a late spring waxing to be picked up sometime then in the fall? or maybe just the 1 time a year wax like suggested.
K now I have another question haha, it seems you all have a good knowledge of what your talking about so I'm going to pick your brains a little lol. I just hit about 900 miles on my BEAUTIFUL CAR!! I love this car already and haven't even had it 1k miles yet. but I was told to be easy-ish on it till about 1k. but another person in here says that after 500 drive it like im going to drive. well my thing is I fluctuate lol. I plan on autocrossing but not until my 100k warranty is void. and plus Im not wanting to trip that stupid little POS ECU when I found out about that at the dealer i was ....well crap!!!! so I will do normal driving mainly like i have been but with the occasional run after a dang camaro or some red neck here in the mountains that thinks just because they have a 6 cylinder or more that they can beat me in the curves...I love their faces when they lose...so I will be "driving" it as well as being casual. how will this effect the car in general you feel? btw I'm not talking about red lining I never do that unless by accident.
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Wintermute
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