I am by no means a expert spark plug reader, but, that doesn't look quite right. Not sure if its the gasoline/octane in the US or your "booster" additive.

 

The booster additive will do this. Most all that are better and true octane booster dating back to the late 70's would color the spark plugs like that. Also with OBDI and later OBDII and CANbus with o2 and Ho2 sensors they would color the same way at times causing them when o@ sampling to give the wrong voltage information to the ECU. It is not often I see customers have this happen when they use octane boosters because very few use the levels of mixture I do and tend to read the bottle that often states treat "UP TO" 20 gallons. I found year's ago doing that to achieve the point octane increase that you need to use more of the booster then the information on the bottle.
If you look carefully at the picture of my spark plug and enlarge the picture the Center electrode and side electrode are burning perfectly. As is if you look at another seldom examined area which requires a flashlight is down inside along and all the way to the bottom of the insulator that the area is clean. The spark plug would self-clean if i were to stop using the booster and run about a tank full of just gasoline through it. That area does not affect any running condition of the engine.

 

Yesterday was my 3000 mile engine oil filter and fluid and my 5k mile transmission fluid change and check.
I like that I have a forum record detailing all the required servicing. Just in case!
Nothing really new that I have not posted in the past. I will have other service upkeeps later because it just got to hot to do anymore work in the garage.

The transmission fluid looked as clear red as when I did my first service. The pan magnet had virtually nothing attached which is always a nice indicator that nothing serious is going on. I will do a complete pan gasket and fluid change at the next interval in 5k miles and have it analyzed at Blackstone Labs. One point of notte I do not use any gasket sealer and as you can see from the pictures (and my trans pan is white ) no leaks. There is one bolt that does require seal on the threads and that is even noted in the FSM

 

 

Only injury today was the sharp plastic under carriage covers when was cleaning them Damn plastic is sharp as a razor blade.

 

I thought my garage was together and my Mazdas were aces - but after seeing your pics - Humbling has occurred - Thanks for sharing those pics - quite impressive ,
So I have a question re my 22 NA CX5 - Im used to driving my 2010 3 / 2.5 Gt Hb - which has a 9:1 CR - and the CX-5 has a 13:1 CR - and is also 4WD - It runs great but is a bit jumpy when letting off the gas mainly - almost like an older car with a stretched timing chain - Its subtle and more apparent with A/C on - theres no warning lights- So Im thibking its my not being used to high compression and AWD - or Its not broken it yet - have you heard this before ? am I just not used to this car ? ...Or should I reset the computer to factory and start over at 18k ?
Thanks C - again great stuff - and thanks for the lift suggestion

 

Thank you I do have fune with my Mazda.
I sent a PM about your question.

 

Washed the engine today. It was long overdue. I started seeing dust on my valve cover in some resent pictures I took and was going to post about how to check the engine oil level. I didnt post them for that reason.
I also cleaned my K&N air filter. You can see in the pictures how the water turned dirty in color indicating the filter was doing its job. While I was at it I also pulled the Cabin filter and re-installed the K&N for the summer months because of using the AC more often now that we are getting 100F plus degree days here.

 

This is the rinsed water after cleaning the filter to make sure it was clean before drying to apply the new oil.







I apply onne full coat of oil and wait for about 10-20 minutes and then touch up any area's that are still showing white material I missed during the initial oil spraying.






Reassembled the seals and installed back on the engine.

 

I replaced my gas cap today being close enough to the 50k mark in miles. At the shop we replace at least a gas cap a week and something many more because of the gas cap just being worn out and not sealing which can cause the least effect of an engine check light to actually cause engine running poorly. I do as a matter of routine replace the rubber O-ring but as you can see in the picture the plastic has discolored so it was time to toss the OEM Mazda and replace it with a better quality STANT.