Current list is pretty much complete but still i want to add another section containing a budget build for an all motor setup and a turbo setup, so until then thread is closed :P

Mild:

Balance shaft delete kit (2.3l only)
Short or cold air Intake
Cat back exhaust
Stage 1 clutch (manual)
Lightweight flywheel (manual)
Oil filter conversion (2.3l only)
Stiffer rear engine mount
Ground kit
Lowering springs
Strut bar
Short shifter
NGK plugs
Decent brake pads (EBC, Hawk, etc.)
Lightweight crankshaft pulley (You MUST tq to 80ft pds and then turn the nut an additional 90 degrees using a breaker bar)

Wild:

Stage 2 clutch
Lightweight accessory pulleys
Tq dampener
Stiffer trans mount
Valvebody upgrade (autotradgics only)
A/F controller
Intake mani
Header
Shocks
Accelerator lag reducer (electronic throttlebody only)
Launch controller

Extreme:

Oil sump
Polished and rebalanced crank to desired rpm
Forged rods and pistons
Head gasket
Valvetrain upgrade
Cam and cam gears
Standalone EMU
Re-enforced trans gears (manual)
Tq converter (auto)
Spec clutch
Performance radiator and fans
Turbo kit
Supercharger (eventually...maybe)
Stiffer drivers side engine mount
Coilovers
Cable throttle body conversion
High output Injectors
LSD


Basic build w/info:
Intake:
Any one will do, none differ from the other except size and price, top of the line is K&N and F2 but all will give the same amount of gains, which ever one you use make sure its black, this is to ensure you get the best heat dissipation possible to keep the air charge cooler.

Exhaust:
If you decide to do just a custom cat back the recommended pipe outside diameter is 2.5in anything bigger you will loose back-pressure therefore losing low end tq. If you can find a mazdaspeed 3 exhaust its a direct fit as far as the bends go, its just a tag longer though. If you want to get a header as well you can go the cheap route and get the obx setup but that is a 4-1 setup which is mostly beneficial to higher hp applications the other option is vibrant 4-2-1, the price is extremely high but its a better setup.

Motor:
If your feel good about this then i recommend doing the crankshaft balance shaft delete mod for the 2.3l. 4cyl are naturally unbalanced, all the balancer is a counterweight that creates an inertial drag on the crank slowing it down but also keeping down vibrations....its just a comfort thing, some say it promotes engine longevity but thats a myth, cheap and easy.

Misc:
Lightweight crankshaft pulley, the only thing that i suggest is that you get someone who is 100% on how to do this, if done incorrectly, stripped bolts holes, wrong timing among other things could result in one bad day. If you didnt know a lightened pulley will dramatically increase the rate engine rpms increases. Motor mounts and/or engine tq dampener, if your complaining about too much wheel hop then you must be beating on the car kinda hard, a GREAT way to reduce that is stiffer motor mounts, downside? depending on durameter rating extreme vibrations that will diminish after a month or two.

Trans:
Short shifter, lightened flywheel, staged clutch are the norm. Careful when purchasing a short shifter even though the throws may be shorter thats not always the best. You can never go wrong with a lightened flywheel. When it comes to picking a staged clutch make sure its a stage 1 for a mostly stock build, otherwise severely reduced trans life may occur or premature flywheel glazing as well as a short lived clutch.

Suspension:
A common mistake made is people who think lower is better or just getting springs and keeping the stock shocks/struts is a good enough to make it handle better, well there wrong, if your looking for a better handling ride w/o getting coilovers and wanting a nice ride for everyday driving and spring and shock combo is a must. A strut tower brace along with front and rear anti-roll bars will also noticeably improve your 3's handling capabilities.

Braking:
People also tend to believe that bigger brakes are better, well that may be somewhat true its highly unnecessary to spend that kind of money if your just daily driving your 3 or even if your in autoX, road race, or mt.climbs, but what you DO want is better brake pads and your NOT gonna find them at advanced, autozone, or pepboys....nor your dealer .

*Please keep in mind that above list is not going to add a major difference in power, what will be felt is a considerable amount of response.

Budget turbo build:

Low compression forged pistons 9.1 (stay at 8-10psi max)
Forged rods
Rod bearings
Ebay turbo kit (replace wastegate and bov)
ARP head studs
AEM Fuel and Ignition F/IC 8
2.5in exhaust
Stage 1 clutch
Lightweight flywheel
Lightweight crankshaft pulley (See above note)
Mazdaspeed short shifter
Stiffer rear engine mount

All motor build:

Forged pistons
Forged Rods (12.5:1 if u want to stay with reg pump gas, 14:1 is for 103 and up octane)
Rod bearings
Head gasket
ARP head studs
Full 2.5in exhaust
4-2-1 Header (A 4-1 header will decrease back-pressure therefore destroying low end power)
Lightweight crankshaft pulley
Valvesprings
Valves
Standalone EMU
550cc and up injectors
Intake manifold or custom ITB
Stage 1-3 clutch
Lightweight flywheel
Short shifter

*Note: As of now there is no budget all motor build worth making

 

what if you have a 2.0 liter?

 

applies to the 2.0l as well, no diff from the 2.3 cept a few components

 

Hi Tracker
Ive recently decided to not sell my Mazda 3 Neo (2.0) and take it up as my first project car I've seen your thread about websites to buy from but it would be great if you could add an approximate price to the modifications youve listed as well as what brands you reccomend

regards,

 

Howdy Mate,

This is a courtesy responses because you are a new member to the forum. Welcome to the forum

You may notice that the thread last activity with a response prior to yours was from Tracker 09-19-2010 08:16 AM ....

I might also add that adding prices to parts would be a huge undertaking because of the hundreds or suppliers for all these parts and all the various suppliers of them all with different retail prices.

I also see that you are in a country that the importation of some parts may not be available to you?

I believe the intent of the thread was to simply give a list of "possible" parts to get for a upgrade project?


I might also close with the member Tracker the author of this thread has not been posting on this forum since 01-03-2012.

Good luck with your future project.