Ok, when she dies out what is the status of the dashboard and lights? Is it normal for a non-running engine with the key at IGN ON or is it dark such as when key at ACC?

Emission control is normally pretty well covered by codes if an out-of-normal condition forced the engine to a stop.

Do you definitely have PATS fitted? I ask because my 2001 doesn't...

Is there any way you can drive the car with the fuel pressure gauge connected to see what happens to the pressure during a stall event? I once had a car where the fuel pump motor had a dead spot, sometimes the pump wouldn't start until the pump moved ever so slightly then it was fine...didn't ever staff when running though. Maybe worth putting a pump in from a breakers though, just to rule it out???

 

The dash lights are normal for a non running car with the key in the On position. I still have the fuel pressure gauge attached to the fuel rail with the gauge itself being held in place by the wiper arm. The pressure stays constant whether the engine is running or stalled out. I don't understand the PATS fitted question. If you are referring to the RF chip in the keys, I've experienced the same issue with two different keys. If not, I'm not sure what you're asking. When the engine does die, I don't get the anti theft light on the dash.

 

So not fuel pressure, not PATS.

Still leaves it being electrical to either ignition or injectors AFAIK. At this point I'd likely get an engine harness from a breaker and swap it out.

 

I finally found an engine harness that was all in one piece. It came from an 03 so I needed to change out the cam and crank sensors and the coil packs due to a different connector size. This seemed to correct the problem but I've only got a couple of hundred miles on it.

SIMONSI................thanks for being a sounding board and your advice!!!

 

Fingers crossed thats the problem...

 

I have pretty much the exact same problem on my '08 CX-7. The morning after I drove it off the lot (bought used last October...regretfully) it stalled on the way to work. I was going about 55 mph when it seemed to lose power..I noticed all the dash lights on/flash then a couple seconds later it kicked back on and I went on down the road. The next morning it did it again...going about 35 mph. That time I put it in neutral and restarted it. The check engine light did not stay on. The dealer I bought it from agreed to look at it. They had it for a week and it would not act up (service manager drove it home a few days).
I drove it for 6 months without any problem thinking maybe it was battery/ecm related to sitting on their lot w/ maybe low or dead battery for so long. Then a few weeks ago it started acting up again. This time it would either stall or not start on the first crank and happened more and more frequently...sometimes taking 2 or 3 cranks to fire up. When it stalled it would usually start right back up on the first crank. A couple times the 'check engine' light would stay on for maybe 2 or 3 start cycles and I finally got a code: P0335 - crankshaft position sensor.
2 days before I replaced the crankshaft sensor it would barely stay running....stalled a half dozen times within just a mile of home. The day before I replaced it, the engine stalled once at the end of my driveway but then I made it the 3 miles into work w/ no problem. Then the next day it took 8 or 10 tries to start it just to get into the garage to work on it. I thought we were going to have to push it in.
It was a pretty easy job to swap it out. It started right up afterward...several times...ran great...or so I thought.
It ran flawlessly for 4 days so I thought I had it licked. I went to leave work on day 4 and it took 3 cranks to get it started. Then stalled on me again the next morning...same symptoms...no codes.
Back to square one.
It's been running fine for a couple days now. Who knows?...I may go another 6 months.
I may try the fuel pump next....?