Mazda Protege This compact model offers an economical solution for the need for a sporty sedan or wagon.

Engine light codes

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 25, 2013 | 02:25 PM
  #21  
imaco's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Default

Guys thank you very much for your help ... yes I am new and I am not mechanic , I am a student and I don`t wanna pay more money , I need to save money more so I need your help ... I have a mechanic and he checked for vacum leak by spray , he said there is no leaking , I bought O2 Sensor bosch from Oreilly and MAF from Ebay and it was after market ... Do I need to buy it from dealer or the ECU needs to program refer to last comments .... ?
 
Reply
Old Jan 25, 2013 | 03:00 PM
  #22  
Kevinkpk's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa
Default

Originally Posted by tanprotege
imaco: Please, buy a "Haynes Manual" for your vehicle(s). It will really help you with trouble shooting.
Second: written step by step instructions make things look more complicated than they are. Therefore, I suggest you watch Youtube videos on the procedures involved. It does not matter on what vehicle they show a procedure. Look at several videos on the same procedure.

To your car and the fuel pressure question: I did not say replace the fuel pressure regulator or anything else. I said fuel pressure could be a cause of the problem. That means you want to know if the fuel pressure is sufficient when the idle drops. You need to measure the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge.
So what are you going to do first? Search Youtube for "how to measure the fuel pressure".
I agree with the Haynes manual. The fuel pressure regulator is part of the pump. X2 check fuel pressure, sounds low to me.
 
Reply
Old Jan 25, 2013 | 04:57 PM
  #23  
tanprotege's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 0
From: Midwest
Default

imaco: I hope you did not throw the original MAF sensor away. You can clean it, install it and test it. You can also buy one from the junk yard. These things are expensive and usually last for ever.

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

One thing you need to consider: the maf sensor communicates with the ECU. There could be something wrong with the wiring.

But first get a fuel pressure reading and see if it is normal. The Haynes Manual has the values to look for.

Did you ever run out of gas with this car? What kind of gas do you use?

I will be patient and help you along as much as I can.
Kevinpk: thanks for helping out. There are changes from the 98 model to the 99 model that I don't know.
 

Last edited by tanprotege; Jan 25, 2013 at 05:01 PM.
Reply
Old Jan 25, 2013 | 09:32 PM
  #24  
imaco's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Default

I usually go to Texaco and buy regular gas , Also I bought Chevron fuel system cleaner and after 2 3 days for filling the tank I will use it , I cleaned the original MAF with CRC but I had the same problem so I bought the after market MAF , my mechanic told me buy a new from dealer but I am worry to buy another one , he checked the parameters by the tool and he said everything is fine but in my opinion the engine rev is low ... also my friend told me clean the place where the MAF is located ... ? what do you think ?
 
Reply
Old Jan 26, 2013 | 10:14 AM
  #25  
tanprotege's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 0
From: Midwest
Default

Originally Posted by imaco
I usually go to Texaco and buy regular gas , Also I bought Chevron fuel system cleaner and after 2 3 days for filling the tank I will use it , I cleaned the original MAF with CRC but I had the same problem so I bought the after market MAF , my mechanic told me buy a new from dealer but I am worry to buy another one , he checked the parameters by the tool and he said everything is fine but in my opinion the engine rev is low ... also my friend told me clean the place where the MAF is located ... ? what do you think ?
Your original MAF sensor was o.k. you proofed that by replacing it with a new one and that did not change a thing. That's why I am telling you not to replace parts nilly *****.

Regular fuel may not be enough. Get at least 89 octane. Texaco, Chevron. Shell, BP, Phillips 66 and such brand names are selling "Tier1" fuels. you can safely use any of these brands. Put the fuel system cleaner in now and fill up.

Did you buy the haynes manual? Did you measure the fuel pressure? You can loan a fuel pressure gauge at the parts store using your credit card.

Did you do anything I suggested in post #12?


Also: I went through the whole thread to review what we have here:
'99 Protege 1.6L of unknown mileage.
Main complaint: low power and extremely low idle, about to stall.
P0171 (persisting)
No vacuum leaks detected.
New MAF sensor, and oxygen sensors.

You know what? I jumped on the P0171 without looking at some important basics.

How many miles are on the engine? How many miles are on the spark plugs? Do you have COPs (Coil on plugs) or a distributor? Hint: if there are no wires going to the spark plugs you have COPs.

I am asking these questions because we employ a process of elimination. the more we know the quicker we get it fixed.
 

Last edited by tanprotege; Jan 26, 2013 at 10:32 AM.
Reply
Old Jan 26, 2013 | 01:34 PM
  #26  
imaco's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Default ..

Thanks ... I bought the car about 2000 miles ago and now the mileage is 116000 original mileage , suppose all and most of parts are old and original , I just changed MAF , O2 Sensor , Ignition coil , tires , and alternator belt . My mechanic is a master mechanic and he and another mechanic told me the car is really good and in future just you need to change the spark plugs and wire set ( they are old ) ... about Haynes manual , cause I am not mechanic and I don`t have tools here i think its not worthy for me to buy it , my mechanic connected the reader and scanner and checked parameters and he said everything is fine but I can go again and ask him give me and write on a paper all parameters and fuel pressure so I can say here ...
 
Reply
Old Jan 26, 2013 | 03:53 PM
  #27  
tanprotege's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 0
From: Midwest
Default

thanks imaco.

11600miles, that's roughly what I guessed (10K to 12K per year).

Most public libraries have the Haynes Manuals or the Chilton manuals. Check it out. the manuals are even useful for those who don't turn wrenches. Or buy it at Amazon, used. It's only about $20 new. And it could have saved you how much already?

Get new plugs and wires. I don't know if your engine has a distributor like mine or a coil pack. If it has a distributor get a new cap and rotor for it. Who knows, the reason for the P0171 may be connected to misfires. If these parts have been installed at the factory it is a miracle the car runs at all.

It would be helpful if you could provide us with the information from the scanner. Ask them to reset the computer or you can disconnect the battery negative and then step on the brake pedal for a few seconds, then reconnect the battery. This also resets the computer and the CEL is off. When it comes on again get a new reading.
 
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2013 | 10:07 AM
  #28  
neald's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Default

I think its still a good idea to change the plugs and wires, but I think if he was misfiring it would have a misfire or rich fuel code. A new fuel filter should be a must, I believe someone earlier was on the right path with a fuel supply related problem like fuel pressure. This makes sense with low idle and lean condition. A vacuum leak would usually be a high idle and lean. After changing any items unplug your battery for about 10 minutes to reset your ecu. We are all pulling for you, hopefully you can get her fixed up with minimal $$.
 
Reply
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 01:38 PM
  #29  
imaco's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Default Hi

I used a Techron cleaner and then refuel with Texaco 91 octan , reset again but I still have the problem .... I am sure there is no vacuum leak and the only problem in my car is engine rev ... it is under 750 and sometimes it comes to 400 rpm ... I am going to the mechanic to get the parameters and change my spark plugs ... what the worse code P0171










Originally Posted by tanprotege
imaco: I like an instrument panel without a warning light on as well. Your mechanic has already eliminated a vacuum leak for a potential cause. The opposite of too much air is too little fuel. So checking the fuel pressure and cleaning the fuel injectors, maybe replacing the fuel filter may lead to a fix.
In your case I would try running a tank with Techron Fuel System Cleaner. If you are lucky that will fix it for less than $10.

If that does not fix it then print out this message and take it to your mechanic. Ask him to check things first before throwing parts at it.



Good luck and please let us know how it goes.





A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
  • The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty
    Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
  • There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
  • Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
  • Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
  • Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
  • Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
  • Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
  • Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor
Possible Solutions

A lot of times, cleaning the MAF sensor and finding/fixing vacuum leaks fix the problem. If you're on a tight budget, start there, but that may not be the fix for certain. So, possible solutions include:
  • Clean the MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
  • Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace/repair as required
  • Inspect all hoses and connections in the air intake system
  • Inspect and/or test the intake manifold gaskets for leakage
  • Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure
  • Ideally you'll want to monitor short and long term fuel trims using an advanced scan tool
  • If you have access, you may want to run a smoke test
 
Reply
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 02:00 PM
  #30  
UseYourNoggin's Avatar
Banned
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,633
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Default

Originally Posted by imaco
.. I am sure there is no vacuum leak and the only problem in my car is engine rev ... it is under 750 and sometimes it comes to 400 rpm ..... what the worse code P0171
I don't believe you!
You could still have a vaccuum leak!
I had an internal vaccuum leak in the brake booster. The only way we figured it out was to pinch off the vac line going to the brake booster and watching the computer. After a while: i did have the odd time where pressing the brake pedal was hard, really had to press on it to barely stop --- because i did not have any help from the booster. It was code P0171!
The fix: new brake booster from Junkyard!
This took months to diagnose because it didn't happen all the time!
 
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:40 AM.