trouble shooting question
#1
08-17-2013, 11:22 PM
trouble shooting question
okay so, I've been changing my pads and rotors on my 93 mx-3,
on the left side, every thing was horrible the rotors were rusted to high hell, the pads were gone. Sorta pisses me off becuase the guy i bought it from said they were replaced back in october. im not sure the caliper has ever been taken off this beast with the amount of pressure ive had to use to get the damn thing off!
just to remove the caliper it took half a can of pb blaster and 6 hours, the other four to put it back on because I have no clue what I'm doing apart from what my coworkers and the internet says.
Working on the right rear pads and rotors today, it took a half hours to break the lugs loose. I'm samoan, I'm not a small dude, 320lbs of me punking out to 4 little lugs, I think not. so after getting those off, I went to the rotor bolt, i got the first one off after a real long time of fighting with it. not using an impact because I'm a poor college kid. got it off, went for #2 and it got dark after a half hour of painful pulling and pushing.
all right, on to the question.
About three months ago I had to park my little mx-3 because it would not move faster then 10 - 15 mph. At first I thought it was the clutch, then i got it in Thursday, and tried to move it forward and backwards, It seemed to have more pick up then when I parked it but I could hear the brakes scraping.
I just want to know, that this was not all a waste of money and ill still have to sink $550 and get the clutch replaced. Will the breaks at the end of there travel hold the rotors enough to make the car go that slow.
-marcus
p.s. my brother told me a test, Put it in to 1st then push it forwards and backwards and if it doesn't move, it is not the clutch. It didn't but I wanted to be sure.
on the left side, every thing was horrible the rotors were rusted to high hell, the pads were gone. Sorta pisses me off becuase the guy i bought it from said they were replaced back in october. im not sure the caliper has ever been taken off this beast with the amount of pressure ive had to use to get the damn thing off!
just to remove the caliper it took half a can of pb blaster and 6 hours, the other four to put it back on because I have no clue what I'm doing apart from what my coworkers and the internet says.
Working on the right rear pads and rotors today, it took a half hours to break the lugs loose. I'm samoan, I'm not a small dude, 320lbs of me punking out to 4 little lugs, I think not. so after getting those off, I went to the rotor bolt, i got the first one off after a real long time of fighting with it. not using an impact because I'm a poor college kid. got it off, went for #2 and it got dark after a half hour of painful pulling and pushing.
all right, on to the question.
About three months ago I had to park my little mx-3 because it would not move faster then 10 - 15 mph. At first I thought it was the clutch, then i got it in Thursday, and tried to move it forward and backwards, It seemed to have more pick up then when I parked it but I could hear the brakes scraping.
I just want to know, that this was not all a waste of money and ill still have to sink $550 and get the clutch replaced. Will the breaks at the end of there travel hold the rotors enough to make the car go that slow.
-marcus
p.s. my brother told me a test, Put it in to 1st then push it forwards and backwards and if it doesn't move, it is not the clutch. It didn't but I wanted to be sure.
#2
08-17-2013, 11:38 PM
This was the left one. Ill need to put on a new stud on but getting this thing running is priority.
#3
08-18-2013, 12:39 PM
marcus:
yes it is possible that dragging brakes hold the car back that much. The brake you show in the picture has one spot where the rust is gone. I don't know what the other side of the rotor and the other rotors altogether look like.
When the brakes drag the rust gets knocked off.
you probably noticed the sliders that allow the calipers to move a bit sideways. you really need to have these sliders cleaned of all corrosion with wire brushes and sandpaper. If you have access to a polishing wheel go ahead and polish them too. Then apply high temp grease to them.
Pull off all the rubber protective sleeves. in my protégé there is one sleeve that goes through the slider hole in the caliper. Pull that sleeve out and remove the rust and corrosion. Rust puts pressure on the rubber sleeve and that keeps the caliper from sliding. Put some grease on the walls of the bore as rust protection.
you may re-use the rubber parts, but if they have been distorted you may have to buy new ones.
An impact wrench would definitely help with suspension/brake work on any old car. A small sledge hammer is often enough to brake the rust in a thread. You can apply adequate hammer strokes to the wrench. But be aware that the wrench may fly off and hit you ...
So clean up the brakes and put it together (new rotors and new pads, replace the brake fluid). Then give it a try.
until that is done you won't have a good idea how the clutch is doing.
yes it is possible that dragging brakes hold the car back that much. The brake you show in the picture has one spot where the rust is gone. I don't know what the other side of the rotor and the other rotors altogether look like.
When the brakes drag the rust gets knocked off.
you probably noticed the sliders that allow the calipers to move a bit sideways. you really need to have these sliders cleaned of all corrosion with wire brushes and sandpaper. If you have access to a polishing wheel go ahead and polish them too. Then apply high temp grease to them.
Pull off all the rubber protective sleeves. in my protégé there is one sleeve that goes through the slider hole in the caliper. Pull that sleeve out and remove the rust and corrosion. Rust puts pressure on the rubber sleeve and that keeps the caliper from sliding. Put some grease on the walls of the bore as rust protection.
you may re-use the rubber parts, but if they have been distorted you may have to buy new ones.
An impact wrench would definitely help with suspension/brake work on any old car. A small sledge hammer is often enough to brake the rust in a thread. You can apply adequate hammer strokes to the wrench. But be aware that the wrench may fly off and hit you ...
So clean up the brakes and put it together (new rotors and new pads, replace the brake fluid). Then give it a try.
until that is done you won't have a good idea how the clutch is doing.
Last edited by tanprotege; 08-18-2013 at 12:45 PM.
#4
08-18-2013, 09:35 PM
marcus:
yes it is possible that dragging brakes hold the car back that much. The brake you show in the picture has one spot where the rust is gone. I don't know what the other side of the rotor and the other rotors altogether look like.
When the brakes drag the rust gets knocked off.
you probably noticed the sliders that allow the calipers to move a bit sideways. you really need to have these sliders cleaned of all corrosion with wire brushes and sandpaper. If you have access to a polishing wheel go ahead and polish them too. Then apply high temp grease to them.
Pull off all the rubber protective sleeves. in my protégé there is one sleeve that goes through the slider hole in the caliper. Pull that sleeve out and remove the rust and corrosion. Rust puts pressure on the rubber sleeve and that keeps the caliper from sliding. Put some grease on the walls of the bore as rust protection.
you may re-use the rubber parts, but if they have been distorted you may have to buy new ones.
An impact wrench would definitely help with suspension/brake work on any old car. A small sledge hammer is often enough to brake the rust in a thread. You can apply adequate hammer strokes to the wrench. But be aware that the wrench may fly off and hit you ...
So clean up the brakes and put it together (new rotors and new pads, replace the brake fluid). Then give it a try.
until that is done you won't have a good idea how the clutch is doing.
yes it is possible that dragging brakes hold the car back that much. The brake you show in the picture has one spot where the rust is gone. I don't know what the other side of the rotor and the other rotors altogether look like.
When the brakes drag the rust gets knocked off.
you probably noticed the sliders that allow the calipers to move a bit sideways. you really need to have these sliders cleaned of all corrosion with wire brushes and sandpaper. If you have access to a polishing wheel go ahead and polish them too. Then apply high temp grease to them.
Pull off all the rubber protective sleeves. in my protégé there is one sleeve that goes through the slider hole in the caliper. Pull that sleeve out and remove the rust and corrosion. Rust puts pressure on the rubber sleeve and that keeps the caliper from sliding. Put some grease on the walls of the bore as rust protection.
you may re-use the rubber parts, but if they have been distorted you may have to buy new ones.
An impact wrench would definitely help with suspension/brake work on any old car. A small sledge hammer is often enough to brake the rust in a thread. You can apply adequate hammer strokes to the wrench. But be aware that the wrench may fly off and hit you ...
So clean up the brakes and put it together (new rotors and new pads, replace the brake fluid). Then give it a try.
until that is done you won't have a good idea how the clutch is doing.
My brother who has been a mechanic for 15+ years said to try and get it up to speed to shift and go through each gear and see if its different, it was not, he said its the clutch.
so in two weeks or so ill be having a mechanic install a new clutch.
what does that usually run for one of our cars? i'm hoping 500 - 550 for parts + labor.
#5
08-19-2013, 04:36 PM
So, your clutch is slipping--badly.
I do not know how much it is to replace the clutch. The last time I had to replace one was in 1976, Volkwagen Beetle.
I do not know how much it is to replace the clutch. The last time I had to replace one was in 1976, Volkwagen Beetle.
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