Random Misfire #2Cylinder Millenia S '02
#1
06-22-2014, 02:20 PM
Random Misfire #2Cylinder Millenia S '02
I was driving home from work about 1 week ago and my car seemed down on power. I applied the accelerator without getting any real response. Car did not seem to want to accelerate past 40 mph. About 2 miles later, the car stalled and would not restart- seemed to not be getting fuel. Had spark. Towed to mechanic.
Codes showed a random misfire in #2 cylinder. Engine compression checked out just fine. IN the past (#3 cylinder), we had to change out the fuel injector that had become clogged and it seemed to fix the problem. Mechanic changed out the fuel injector for #2. Codes are cleared, but the car does not want to run.
Help!!! I just need to know what I should have them try next. The last time with the #3 cylinder I came here, researched and found the answer. I just need to get my car back. I've been borrowing a car for the past week and my welcome is about worn out with that.
I'm a girl...so go easy on the super technological/mechanical lingo. Please dumb it down some. Thank you!!
Codes showed a random misfire in #2 cylinder. Engine compression checked out just fine. IN the past (#3 cylinder), we had to change out the fuel injector that had become clogged and it seemed to fix the problem. Mechanic changed out the fuel injector for #2. Codes are cleared, but the car does not want to run.
Help!!! I just need to know what I should have them try next. The last time with the #3 cylinder I came here, researched and found the answer. I just need to get my car back. I've been borrowing a car for the past week and my welcome is about worn out with that.
I'm a girl...so go easy on the super technological/mechanical lingo. Please dumb it down some. Thank you!!
#2
06-22-2014, 03:22 PM
you say the car starts, but does not want to run. what exactly does it do?
when it would only go 40 mph, did the 'tcs off/tcs' lite up on the dash?
did the 'check engine' lite up on the dash, if so, what codes were there? and no interpretation by someone, what were the exact codes?
when it would only go 40 mph, did the 'tcs off/tcs' lite up on the dash?
did the 'check engine' lite up on the dash, if so, what codes were there? and no interpretation by someone, what were the exact codes?
#3
06-22-2014, 09:48 PM
When it would not accelerate past 40, it seemed almost stuck in gear. The only stored code was P0302.
No TCS codes-went through that when I first got this car in 2010.
The CEL light had been on due to an O2 sensor needing to be replaced.
No TCS codes-went through that when I first got this car in 2010.
The CEL light had been on due to an O2 sensor needing to be replaced.
#5
06-28-2014, 03:22 PM
you need to be a lot more specific. first off, are you pulling the codes, or do you have a shop that is telling you what they are?
is your check engine lite on? if so, what are the exact codes, not what does someone say they mean
have you ever changed the ignition coils?
when was the last time the spark plugs(all of them) were changed, and what plug went in? the only plug that comes from the factory that is properly gapped for this car is the ngk 3741(PZFR5F). NOT PZFR5F-11, not iridium, and if some dumbass regapped the plugs, that is a rookie mistake and is wrong.
have you ever switched the coils around? what we generally do, is mark each coil. then swap the front bank coils(2-4-6) with the rear bank(1-3-5) and see if the miss follows.
there are a couple of grounding points on this engine, if someone has been fooling around with say, the 4 solenoids on the engine(actually there are like 13, but 4 of them are together), or have recently changed the plugs, if the grounding point is not securely bolted down, it will cause all kinds of problems
is your check engine lite on? if so, what are the exact codes, not what does someone say they mean
have you ever changed the ignition coils?
when was the last time the spark plugs(all of them) were changed, and what plug went in? the only plug that comes from the factory that is properly gapped for this car is the ngk 3741(PZFR5F). NOT PZFR5F-11, not iridium, and if some dumbass regapped the plugs, that is a rookie mistake and is wrong.
have you ever switched the coils around? what we generally do, is mark each coil. then swap the front bank coils(2-4-6) with the rear bank(1-3-5) and see if the miss follows.
there are a couple of grounding points on this engine, if someone has been fooling around with say, the 4 solenoids on the engine(actually there are like 13, but 4 of them are together), or have recently changed the plugs, if the grounding point is not securely bolted down, it will cause all kinds of problems
#6
07-14-2014, 03:16 PM
you need to be a lot more specific. first off, are you pulling the codes, or do you have a shop that is telling you what they are?
I'm not able to pull the codes, but I am there when they have been pulled. So far P0302, P0300 and the latest P1345 (Cam Shaft Sensor)
is your check engine lite on? if so, what are the exact codes, not what does someone say they mean
CEL has been on again off again. Last time it was checked prior to this breakdown, it indicated an O2 sensor. Post breakdown it was P0302.
have you ever changed the ignition coils?
I may have this incorrect and I will check, but they've been moving the coils around as you suggested in another thread. They are chasing a misfire that seems to move around, disappear and reappears. kind of like a gremlin
when was the last time the spark plugs(all of them) were changed, and what plug went in? the only plug that comes from the factory that is properly gapped for this car is the ngk 3741(PZFR5F). NOT PZFR5F-11, not iridium, and if some dumbass regapped the plugs, that is a rookie mistake and is wrong.
Spark plugs were changed about 1 year ago prior to this break down with non-NGK plugs. Car ran fine. On that occasion it was a P0304 misfire I believe.
I had them change the plugs to the NGK plugs as you directed, that's when the P1345 code appeared.
have you ever switched the coils around? what we generally do, is mark each coil. then swap the front bank coils(2-4-6) with the rear bank(1-3-5) and see if the miss follows.
They've switched the coils around as far as I know. They also switched out the #2 injector off another '96 S model that I own.
there are a couple of grounding points on this engine, if someone has been fooling around with say, the 4 solenoids on the engine(actually there are like 13, but 4 of them are together), or have recently changed the plugs, if the grounding point is not securely bolted down, it will cause all kinds of problems
I'm not able to pull the codes, but I am there when they have been pulled. So far P0302, P0300 and the latest P1345 (Cam Shaft Sensor)
is your check engine lite on? if so, what are the exact codes, not what does someone say they mean
CEL has been on again off again. Last time it was checked prior to this breakdown, it indicated an O2 sensor. Post breakdown it was P0302.
have you ever changed the ignition coils?
I may have this incorrect and I will check, but they've been moving the coils around as you suggested in another thread. They are chasing a misfire that seems to move around, disappear and reappears. kind of like a gremlin
when was the last time the spark plugs(all of them) were changed, and what plug went in? the only plug that comes from the factory that is properly gapped for this car is the ngk 3741(PZFR5F). NOT PZFR5F-11, not iridium, and if some dumbass regapped the plugs, that is a rookie mistake and is wrong.
Spark plugs were changed about 1 year ago prior to this break down with non-NGK plugs. Car ran fine. On that occasion it was a P0304 misfire I believe.
I had them change the plugs to the NGK plugs as you directed, that's when the P1345 code appeared.
have you ever switched the coils around? what we generally do, is mark each coil. then swap the front bank coils(2-4-6) with the rear bank(1-3-5) and see if the miss follows.
They've switched the coils around as far as I know. They also switched out the #2 injector off another '96 S model that I own.
there are a couple of grounding points on this engine, if someone has been fooling around with say, the 4 solenoids on the engine(actually there are like 13, but 4 of them are together), or have recently changed the plugs, if the grounding point is not securely bolted down, it will cause all kinds of problems
Kenin is there anyway you would be available to speak to my mechanic? I can provide a phone number if you think it would help. I'm seriously desperate at this point and at the mercy of my Mom who is currently transporting me to my job.
Thank you so much. Hilarie
#7
07-14-2014, 06:07 PM
shops working on cars do NOT like to talk to outsiders. if YOU were the one working on the car, i would be glad to call and try to help. but a third party with you in between is not a good situation. so no, i wont talk to your mechanic. it would only **** them off. a mazda dealer wont give you anything for this car as it is. they may knock 500 bucks off the price of a new car, but they would do that whether you had a trade in or not. you can probably get a junkyard to give you a couple hundred for the car. at this point, so much stuff has been done to the car, one would have to just start all over. i think you should cut your losses and move on
#8
07-15-2014, 01:21 PM
It's a small town, so I told them I would ask you if you would speak to them. They've been working on the car as a favor to me (small town and all).
The car is in good condition aside from the fact it will not now run correctly. It would seem its value in parts would be worth more than $100. The motor is still good it would seem to be primarily electrical based on my non-mechanical logical way of looking at it.
Thanks again.
The car is in good condition aside from the fact it will not now run correctly. It would seem its value in parts would be worth more than $100. The motor is still good it would seem to be primarily electrical based on my non-mechanical logical way of looking at it.
Thanks again.
#9
02-11-2015, 10:20 PM
I had the same problem on my 626, there was an arc line down number two spark plug, caused by oil leaking up into the plug surround in the valve cover , attracting dirt which caused the plug to short out. Cleaned out the plug hole changed all the plugs and wires as they were deteriorated from oil contamination.and tightened the bolts on the valve cover to try to seal them a bit better. I'll put new seals in on both valve covers and air intake when the weather warms up. The valve cover seals are rubber and after a while they go hard and no longer seal properly.
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