Mazda Millenia This sedan, the flagship luxury sedan, offers both a naturally aspirated and supercharged model, so you can have your luxury, and, if you have a need for speed, big horsepower.

2001 Mileenia S

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  #31  
Old 03-31-2011, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by keninn
you wasted your money on the ecm(pcm). if you go to the other forums, you will not see any posts about a bad pcm, but you will see a whole bunch of posts about plugs, and coils. also, NEVER accept what someone says the codes were, you should get WHAT code it was, not what they say the code was for. case in point, when our black car got it's first codes, it was 0170/73, scanned at autozone. they interpreted it as the mas. second was o2 sensors. what it actually was, a broke tee, so it was running lean. again, if you check the other forums, you will see a LOT of posts about broke tees/vacuum lines associated with the 0170/73, but no one fixing those codes with mas or o2 sensors.
also, and you will find this out, the pcm is a bitch to change. it is behind the radio, but in such a posiltion that the harness is really difficult to unplug. be prepared to remove the side panels of the console to gain access to the harness connectors, and even then it will test your mettle. i would first change plugs/swap coils, and clean the wells. here is a trick i have done that works very well. when you have the plug out, clean the well. i like brake cleaner for this, it dries with no residue. the inside of the well has to be squeaky clean. with your finger, you can feel the groove where the valve cover gasket is. take some good silicon sealant, and rub it all around where the gasket is. i like hylomar for this, but any sealant that is oil and hi heat will work. i have done this to both cars, and no more oil in the wells.
a miss on #6 would throw a p0306 code, not 0300. again, you should find out what codes were thrown, not the interpretation. and, afaik, the ngk 3741 is the only plug that comes with the proper gap. beware of any plug with a -11 after the part number of the plug. for example, the old number for the 3741 is PZFR5F. however, there is also PZFR5F-11, which is used on some acuras and bmw. the -11 means 1.1mm gap
a general rule of thumb, is to attack the lower number codes first, sometimes fixing the lower number codes will also fix other codes. this is very true on the 2.3. i would bet that the right bank plugs are original, and long overdue
Kennin, I realize this an old thread but hoping you see and respond. My son's 2000 Millenia S 2.3L was throwing P0301/P0304 and running like crap with flashing CEL and idling at about 1200 rpm. We replaced all 6 plugs(Autolite APP5224 which crosses to the NKG PZFR5F, gaps were .029") and replaced the #1 and #4 coils. Now have flashing CEL with P0300 and car runs better, but still obvious misfire. Car is also idling at about 1200 rpms. Checked the fuel injector readings and got 13 ohms on all 6. Checked the EGR valve and the diaphragm moves when I suck on the vacuum connection. When car is running and I disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR valve, it makes no difference in engine operation.

We spent $4,200 a year ago having all new timing, all new cat converters and some other items replaced. Last time I'll use a dealer.

I tried spraying starter fluid all around while car was running and didn't get any response that would indicate a vacuum leak.

I'm wondering if the solenoid valve from which the EGR valve gets its vacuum is working? Any way to check that? Also wondering about oxygen sensors and/or MAP?

Any help appreciated.
 
  #32  
Old 03-31-2011, 04:15 PM
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this one is outta my league. way back when, our black car had 0300. i first put in heet, cause i was sure i got some bad gas. problem subsided, but didnt go away. iirc, it would start and run for a few minutes, then start missing, and i would get the flashing ce. it kept scanning 0300. so i changed the plugs, i think that was my first time. i dont remember a lot, but i remember it didnt change much. so i bought 6 new coils. brand new. like 900 bucks. changed them all, and the problem went away.

your high idle sounds like a vacuum leak, even tho you checked with spray. i am unaware of any other plug except the ngk that is properly gapped, but since you checked, that can be eliminated, unless you had to regap, then perhaps the electrodes were damaged? high idle can also be a bad idle control valve, and they are really pricey. without specific cyls, just 0300 that is a puzzle. were the coils you changed new or used?
 
  #33  
Old 03-31-2011, 04:17 PM
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The coils were new.
 
  #34  
Old 03-31-2011, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by santa6
The coils were new.
well, unless you regapped those plugs, which you are NOT supposed to do, i dont think they are pre gapped at .7mm. when i was working part time at oreilly auto parts, i took every plug that was supposed to fit the 2.3 off the shelf and checked the gap. all except the ngk were 1.1mm, way too big. i dont remember the autolite number, but then, who can? they have such a whacky part numbering system. there are some posts on the other millenia group about plugs with too large a gap throwing the 0300 code, and killing the coils. if the coil is weak, it wont throw a code, but it will miss. after a while, it will then throw a code. the cop system is on a lot of cars, and a lot of them eat coils. i worked at the bmw dealer for a while, and we were always changing out coils, we had hundreds in stock
 
  #35  
Old 04-01-2011, 12:13 PM
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Okay, I give up! I've read in too many places about how sensitive these plugs are, and yes we did re-gap them. So, as much of a PIA as it is, I've decided to tear back into this thing today and get NKG plugs and make damn sure the plugs are no longer an issue. We'll see what happens. Thanks for your help and prodding.
 
  #36  
Old 04-01-2011, 01:33 PM
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i do think it is plug or coil related, but i aint no expert. lemme know what you find
 
  #37  
Old 04-07-2011, 04:22 PM
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Kennin, finally got the new plugs. Pulled the front 3 to replace and they looked like the engine had been running rich. Replaced them with the new plugs. Then went to back side and pulled plug #1 - It was complete clean, like it just came out of the box. Then I remembered, when we were putting the previous set of plugs in(the Autolites) we broke a wire on the p0lug that plugs into the coil - this was also the new coil to address the P0301 code. IBasically we had pulled the black wire with the white stripe out of the connector. I pushed it back in carefully and checked continuity with ohm gage by piercing this B/W wire on on the wire side and contacting the corresponding tab in the plug on the other side - we got continuity so I figured the wire would work okay and we were very careful when we reassembled. But now, seeing that it looks like this plug, with a brand new coil, was not firing at all - which could partially explain the rough running - I'm wondering if I now need to replace the harness. Can't reall see a way to solder a repair. So some questions:

Is there a way to repair this connector?
Should we replace the harness?
Is it one harness for all 6 cylinders or is it one for front/one for back?
Where to these wires connect on the other end - is there a distributor of some sort?

Thanks
 
  #38  
Old 04-07-2011, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by santa6
Kennin, finally got the new plugs. Pulled the front 3 to replace and they looked like the engine had been running rich. Replaced them with the new plugs. Then went to back side and pulled plug #1 - It was complete clean, like it just came out of the box. Then I remembered, when we were putting the previous set of plugs in(the Autolites) we broke a wire on the p0lug that plugs into the coil - this was also the new coil to address the P0301 code. IBasically we had pulled the black wire with the white stripe out of the connector. I pushed it back in carefully and checked continuity with ohm gage by piercing this B/W wire on on the wire side and contacting the corresponding tab in the plug on the other side - we got continuity so I figured the wire would work okay and we were very careful when we reassembled. But now, seeing that it looks like this plug, with a brand new coil, was not firing at all - which could partially explain the rough running - I'm wondering if I now need to replace the harness. Can't reall see a way to solder a repair. So some questions:

Is there a way to repair this connector?
Should we replace the harness?
Is it one harness for all 6 cylinders or is it one for front/one for back?
Where to these wires connect on the other end - is there a distributor of some sort?

Thanks
wow. i have never been there, and on a bmw we would replace the harness, but bmw sells sections of harness in the engine bay. i would look for a used harness, and at least splice in the connector. dunno about the answers to your other questions. but it sure sounds like you found the problem
 
  #39  
Old 04-07-2011, 07:24 PM
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Ended up putting it all back together with the new plugs and made sure that wire was pressed in on #1. It runs perfectly!!!! Hasn't run this good since we bought it. I drove it for a while and the CEL came back on. Now shows P0303. So I guess I'll tear it apart one more time for the #3 coil and then it should be complete - for now. Time to sell.
 
  #40  
Old 04-09-2011, 12:53 PM
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milleniatech.net - Documentation
These should work for your Millenia S

milleniatech.net - Spark Plug Removal/Installation
This is a good visual site for what you doin

milleniatech.net
This is the home page.Some of the links are out dated and dont work but ALOT of good stuff

milleniatech.net - KL-ZEM (2.3L V6) Vacuum Hose Routing Diagram (1996+ Models)
Make sure you check this out

Sounds like a plug # 3 issue.That is the WORST one to get to because of that stupid 1" air hose.I take both clamps and move them to the middle,then push hose towards passsenger side then pull it off.Pain in rear to put back on.ards
 




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