Ok Keeninn you were right, new NGK plugs and the used ECM and same issue still skipping. P0300 code, unplug the coil on #6 and no change in the engine. I going to pull the plug back out check compression and swap coils and see what happens.

 

Twincycles,

Ironically, my Milly 2.5L experienced some codes over the past few weeks. P0300, P1402 and P0500. These codes followed some work that I had done regarding pulling my intake manifold, taking it to a machine shop and have them put the part through their "dishwasher" to get the carbon out of the intake. I had used various methods a few times before to remove the carbon, but felt it wasn't 100%. I would get a P0400 code for my EGR prior to having the intake manifold cleaned.

Well, after the intake was reinstalled, I had an intake leak. I had to pull it a 2nd time - but, this time, I used some Permatex Super Tack with the intake gasket to ensure there wouldn't be any leaks - even after proper torquing. Well, during this 2nd process, it appears that I had mis-routed one or two vacuum lines. I was out of time and patience, so I took it to a local shop to have them take over.

My issues with the P0300, P0500 and P1402 were related to the EGR valve, which required replacing. On top of the MSRP price of the EGR valve, I paid about $300 in labor for diagnostics, R&R of the EGR valve, and the re-tracing of the vacuum lines on my Millenia. I picked it up from the shop last evening - was purring like a baby.

I had even replaced the EGR valve with another used (but known working) EGR valve, with little change in my situation. So, the majority of my issues were caused by those vacuum lines. Plus, I thought my 2.5L had a lot of vacuum lines (21 - 25 feet) - but, the Millenia S has somewhere around 31' of lines.

Regarding your situation, at least you experienced with a cheap ECU - and, didn't get burned by having to buy one for over $1,000 from the dealership, had they done the work.

 

Not looking good sa far, pulled the #6 plug and 0 compression, want even move the needle, pulled plug next to it #4 I belive, and had 180 pounds of compression.

I have filled the cylinder with oil to see if the rings got stuck from all the gas being sprayed into the cyclinder with no fire, and will somehow unstuck themselves, I guess the valves could be partially open also, since I have 0..nothing not even 1 pound. This is not looking good at all.

 

ut oh. go back a bit, what is the history of the car? did you buy it this way? or was it running good, and then it whammied?

 

it was skipping when I bought the car, the previous owner said last time it acted this way he replaced a coil. He had the time belt replaced back in Feb of 2009 and it just started this about a month ago.

I drove the car home and it idles rough but ran rather good goning doen the road, but lacked power, I drove it about 5 miles to the house easy, then drove it up to the dealership hoping they could hook up to their machine and give me a quick fix, like coil or something easy.

I sprayed oil in the cylinder and it seems to sit and not run down the cylinder wall, but it is hard to really tell. I just wonder if the previous owner drove it more than stated and washed the cylinder walls and the rings collasped or is it possible they got the timing slightly off and it burned a valve.

Even with oil sprayed into the cylinder I still get no compression on that cylinder.

Thinking of taking the valve cover off to see if something happend in there.

Do you have to take the intake off to remove the front valve cover?

 

pulling the valve cover is quite involved, and the intake does have to come off. i dont know if you will be able to tell much. if there is no compression, even if you do diagnose a bad valve, anything is going to be a big job. i hope you got it for a song, because the next tune is gonna cost. the resale on a millenia is zilch. we are going to drive our cars till they drop. you might start looking for a jdm engine, there are quite a few on ebay, and if you google japanese engines, a whole bunch of sites come up. one of my good friends had a shop, and he put in the jdm engines a lot. i also put one in my mitsubishi galant, and it was excellent, i would do it again in a heartbeat. in japan, it is illegal to put used parts on a car. also, each year, the taxes for a car increase so much that after a few years, it is cheaper to buy a new car. the japanese take really good care of their cars, and they dont drive them very much. the engines will have way less than 50k on them, and most of them in the 20k range. when i pulled the valve cover on the mitsu engine, the valve train looked brand new. i wouldnt get a usa engine, it wont be anywhere near as good a shape as a jdm. if i had to do a valve job on a 2.3, i would just get a used engine and install it, way less expensive, and way easier

 

Thanks for all the info.

It does not look good,and looks like a whole lot of work ahead. if I go with an engine what years could I put in there? only 2001 or 2002?

Does the engine come out the top on these or the bottom?

I paid 2100 for the car, its a shame because the car is in great shape in and out.

 

the engines are basically all the same. the 95-96 had some different sensors, coils, and intercooler connections. you cannot use the exh manifolds on the jdm, and your left bank exh pre cat may be ruined. engine comes out the top. i have never pulled a millenia engine. no offense, but 2100 on a millenia that needs an engine is high. and i bet the po knew the engine was bad. dunno about where you live, but here in texas, if the car wont pass state inspection, which means epa, too, i think you can get a refund. no way that car will pass with a dead cylinder.

check this out:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...Q5fAccessories

this is engine AND transmission. it is NOT a 95-96. see the intercooler connection by the oil cap? that was changed on 97 and later, to the silicone coupling with clamps. the 95-96 had bolts, just like on the other end. so this is a 97-later engine. i think the transmission on the early cars also was not as good, and somewhere in it's life, mazda changed the transmission.
however, here again, i caution you. this car is fairly high maintenance. in both our cars, one we bought new in 99, the other used in 03(i think) i have changed out, in BOTH cars, at least once-motor mounts, exh man pre cats, axles(3 times in one car), seat heaters, p/s pump(only 1 car, but one of the WORST jobs i have ever done), radiators, serp belt tensioners, coils, one fuel injector, a/c amplifiers, steering column motors, visors(clamp bushings keep breaking, suckers cost over 100/ea), front and rear links, control arm bushings, rack boots, tie rod ends, ball joints, and lots of regular stuff like brakes, fluids, filters, tires, etc. but i think the car is very well made. i sell parts for bmw and mercedes, have been for over 25 years. i also worked on the line at a bmw dealer, and a couple of independents, before i went into parts. i think the millenia build quality is equal or better than bmw and mercedes. another testimonial to japanese car manufacturers. the exact opposite of the 626, which is built in the usa. we owned a 626, what a pile of crap. good design, lousy build quality. i also had a mitsubishi galant vr4, built in japan, and a gsx, built in america. same exact story. galant build was excellent, gsx was horrible.
the millenia has it problems, but if it has had good maintenance from the start, it will last a long time, and is a very good ride. you just have to be on top of things. like the ce lite, some of these idiots drive the car for years with the lite on, then complain about the car. or they listen to the parts guy at autozone, who knows absolutely nothing about the car. or, like you, they take the car to the dealer, who also knows nothing about the car, and get bad advice, and a really big bill. as before, i think that if you cannot do most of the work on the car yourself, dont get one. and if you have one, be very careful where you take it for service/repair.

 

when you get this care running,DO NOT give it to your daughter.let her drive your car and you drive the millenia.its gonna eat your lunch in repairs and trying to get it running good again.especially after an engine swap.anything can happen and you may never figure it out. but good luck, i mean that..i paid 2200 for my 96 millenia s 2 years ago needing this and that but in great LOOKING condition,axles mainly why it was so cheap,ive put in about 1000 more so far but mainly maintenance.had mazda look at it for 500.they straightened out the vacum lines,change a few selonoids.tranny flush.once you figure it out its not so bad to keep running yourself,mainly vacume lines and checking selonoids...i carry a code reader with me at all times.even the weather changes screws it up alittle.its just not reliable enough for a young lady.

 

This quote has a bit of irony in it. I was getting my Millenia inspected for emissions this morning since all the sensors had finally set back up after the work that had been done on it. I was in the waiting room at the automotive shop and overheard the service advisor talking to the mechanic ... "how can you confuse a Mazda with a Mercedes". I felt like stepping out of the waiting room and asking the service advisor if he knew anything about the Millenia.

Additionally, I've read about BMW components and parts. Not sure how accurate it is, but do BWM water pumps have plastic blades? I seem to recall that this can be a common replaced part for a BMW - I may be wrong, again, though, just what I've read.