Hi, I have a 2000 Millenia Base w/2.5L engine with the CEL staying on. I took it to AutoZone twice and the Dealership once. The first time at AutoZone the P0120 code for the knock sensor code came on, so I took it the dealership and they got the same code and quoted me at $485 for parts and labor. I think the part is around $160 and I was told 4 hours for labor. This is a new car for me, and I was aware before I bought it that it would be expensive to maintain (thanx to this forum I called around a few other places, and the quotes were b/t 250 and 450, except for one at $683. The Repair shop that quoted 683 said they also needed to replace an assemby - something about an intake - sorry, that's as detailed as I remember, and that maybe the dealership was less expensive b/c they may have a tool that allows them to avoid having to replace the assembly. The shop that quoted me at $250 sort of scares me, b/c everwhere else was a bit higher. Can someone let me know if you would suggest taking it to the dealer as opposed to the $250 quote.

Also, can you tell me if the wheel bearings are replaced using the hub or press in method?

Thanx in advance for any help!

 

Accidentally typed in the wrong code...the correct code is P0325.

 

I have a 98 millenia that had a knock sensor code 2 years ago, my brother-in-law who is a good shade tree mech told me to go to autozone and buy a little red bottle of carbon cleaner. I'm sorry I can't remember the name of it. What it does is help eliminate the carbon build up. It cost's around $7 and it works. It worked for me 2 years ago although I now have a EGR boost sensor problem. If you go to Autozone and tell them you want a carbon eliminator that comes in a unmistakable little red plastic bottle for $7 it should fix your problem. I remember I had to put 2 in for 2 tanks of gas. Hope it helps.

 

If an additive would help that would be great. Worth a try anyway. Most of the time though the problem is that water has gotten inside the knock sensor and shorted it out. Ususally then become open circuit and set the P0325 code. Mazda has had a TSB and updated knock sensor for several years because of this. Usually get water on it from engine being cleaned although have seen otherwise.
Think I might be a little wary of the $250 quote. The updated sensor (OE part #KL47-18-S50) retails for $180.35 plus you need to throw in a couple of intake gaskets $24.00 and several coolant pipe 'o' rings $12.00. Add onto that the Mitchell suggested replace time of 3.1 hours. Either that shops labor rate is super cheap at $11.50 per hour or they have misquoted for maybe labor only.
The knock sensor is located between the cylinder heads and threaded right into the top of the cylinder block in the middle area. Intake manifold needs to be removed and then there are several coolant pipes that also should be removed in order to get down to where the sensor is at. Is somewhat of a big job to do. I would go with someone you trust and will stand behind there work in the event of coolant leaks etc after the repair. No other assembly needs to be replaced so not sure where the $683 comes in. Definitely not go to that one for repairs.

Oh, the front wheel bearings are pressed into the steering knuckles with press. Rear wheel bearings come with the hub and are a simple replace of removing nut in center of hub, replace and reinstall retaining nut. Might have to transfer the ABS sensor ring if it does not come with the new bearing/hub assembly.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/6C86F4C623654DCF9EF2FA3005E64E62.gif[/IMG]
FRONT BEARING

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/CC50C61A31AC421A8015FAD6F78D9A1E.gif[/IMG]
REAR BEARING

 

This info has been super helpful - thanx a ton! I had the knock sensor replaced at the dealership before I was able to read the 8/4, but babyhuey was right on. I mentioned replacing the intake gaskets (I wasnt aware of the coolant pipe o'rings yet) b4 they started working, so that changed the estimate to $520. Once they were finished, they called and said there was a coolant leak and that they needed to go back in and take care of that, so what you talked about made perfect sense. I ended up paying $560 by the time the sensor, gaskets and o'rings were replaced.

I have another issue now that hopefully you can help me with. The day after I picked up the car, last Friday, the CEL light came back on after I had been driving on the highway about 10 minutes. I took it back to the dealership and they ran the code. They said the code was showing EGR Boost Sensor, but that the report said the car was running fine, so they cleared the code and said to let them know if it came back on. Today, I had the 90k Service performed and 10 minutes after I left the dealership, on the highway again, right after I set the cruise control, the CEL light came back on. I took it back to the dealership and the same EGR code came on, but this time another code having to do with the Throttle Position Sensor showed up too. Hopefully the way I am explaining makes sense - I am a little confused. I dont belive they actual diagnosed it this time b/c I was only there for 5 minutes. They said the EGR Boost Sensor code was on b/c I probably needed the engine parts at the intake cleaned/scraped b/c of a major build up. I asked if an additive would do the trick and they said probably not and that the special cleaing they do probably wouldnt be enough either. They said the build up was probably so much it needed to be scraped and that this was a 5 hour job w/an estimate of $400. They also quoted me $10.95 to replace some gasket.

Would you recommend trying the additive or special cleaning (sorry I dont remember the name of it, maybe something having to do with fuel injection)? Also, he mentioned it would have been better if this code would have shown up earlier so they could have taken care of the carbon build-up when they replaced the knock sensor. It seems like they would have noticed an extreme carbon build-up when they were working on the knock sensor or 90k.

They told me the Throttle Position Sensor can show up periodically and quoted me $188 for the part and said there would be no labor cost if they installed it with the EGR work.

Are there any other things that could be triggering these two sensors? Thanx again for any input!

 

Very unlikely that there is a common problem between the two codes being set for Boost sensor and Throttle position. Not really any additives that you would be able to use either. Anything you put in the fuel is simply shot out of the injector onto the back of the intake valve and never gets up into the intake manifold where it would be needed.
Do you remember the code # that was set for the Boost sensor or EGR problem. There are several different ones that could all point to different problems. If you do not then might be possible to pop into Autozone and have them pull the code #.

Since they are thinking that a build-up of carbon is the problem I would guess that they were seeing a weak or nonexistant vacuum signal to the EGR boost sensor solenoid valve. This is a very easy thing to check for yourself and maybe even fix if that is indeed the problem. Couple of pics below of the EGR Boost sensor and solenoid valve as well as a pic of the vacuum port. There is a vacuum line that runs from that vacuum port on the intake manifold to the Boost sensor solenoid valve. Pull that vacuum line off at the manifold and put your finger up to it. Should have a strong vacuum pull on your finger and might even be able to hear it whistle. Might even pull a vacuum line off from another location to feel what a good vacuum pull feels like if not sure. If no or weak vacuum is felt at that port then intake is indeed carboned up. This is a very common problem on this engine for setting EGR flow malfunction codes such as a P0400 or even BARO/BOOST sensor code 1195. If port is clogged with carbon deposits then a correct vacuum signal cannot be detected by the Boost sensor and codes get set. Very easy to simply clean that port out with a good sharp drill bit instead of pulling the entire manfold off and working from inside out. You should be able to insert a 3/32" drill bit approx 1 1/4" into that port. Can even start with a smaller bit and work back and forth by hand untill port is cleaned out. Would definitely give that a shot before spending 5 hours worth of labor money.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/EE116D54DD2144F0B1555C2498977271.jpg[/IMG]
Here is the Boost sensor and solenoid assembly. Long hose to the left connects to intake manifold.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/868EAB42DE574369BCE991C956B2BA79.jpg[/IMG]
Here is the Boost sensor with connector unplugged.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/1D63EFBE243449CFBBA6CDE96947463B.jpg[/IMG]
Arrow points to the port that may be clogged up with carbon deposits. Colored the tip of vacuum line Orange.

 

I was able to stop by AutoZone, and the 2 codes they pulled were P0400 and P0510.

My husband also attempted to clean out the carbon build-up with the 3/32" drill bit and seemed to get quite a bit of build-up out. AutoZone said if cleaning the build-up took care of the problem that the code should clear up on it's in, but after driving the car for a bit.

While he was cleaning he noticed a black tube that looked like it was supposed to be connected to something. In the third picture you showed me with the arrow pointing to the port that might have been clogged, we noticed our picture didnt quite look like yours. I'm not sure what the black tube is, maybe a hose or vacuum, but it looked like it was supposed to be connected the part that sits directly above the clogged port. Sorry, these things are foreign to me, so hopefully this is making sense. The tube is not connected to anything on one end, and someone actually plugged it with a screw. I've also included a close up of what it looks like it should be connected to. Can you tell me what the part is and if you can tell if it's missing something or possibly broken?

Also, any opinion on the P0510 code?

Thanx again! All of this info has been super helpful.

 

Sorry the pic was not the same as your car. [:@]. The only Milly I had available was a 96 so was a little different. Will post up some more accurate ones as soon as I can get to them downloaded onto the computer. They are from a 2001 so should be the same as yours. Not completely sure on the hose plugged off with the screw as I am unable to enlarge pics any larger that a postage stamp but looks to be coming from the #2 VRIS or Variable Resonance Induction System solenoid. Does the other end of the hose attach to a solenoid valve on top of the intake manifold? The electrical connector to this solenoid should have two wires in it. One is Brown with a Yellow stripe and the other is Red with a Black stripe. If so then the other end of the vacuum hose should connect to the actuator in the second pic but kind of looks like the nipple on the actuator is broken. I believe it is only plastic. You should be able to tell better from the new pics below when I get them up..
It will probably take quite a while for the code to clear itself. You can easily clear yourself by disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes or so. Just make sure that once done cleaning that there is a good, strong vacuum supply to the solenoid. Have replaced perhaps 6-8 boost sensors for actually being faulty but is by far more common to loose vacuum from that clogging.
The P0510 is indicating that there is a fault with the CTP or Closed Throttle Position Switch. This switch is part of the Throttle Position Sensor that was giving a code from prior dealer check. Will probably need to replace the Throttle Position Switch to fix but if you have a voltmeter it's operation can be easily checked.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/D345313338F547479932B6572FE2AAA4.jpg[/IMG]
This is one of the VRIS actuators that may have the broken vacuum nipple.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/D64668BC8BC44BBCA0EA6CA8878D5C95.jpg[/IMG]
Is this the vacuum line that is disconnected in center of pic between solenoid and actuator?

 

Would the knock sensor affect your throttle response and acceleration? Cause im throuhging the code as well and im having those problems. Thanks