auh man you had to post a "youtuibe" video!!

Never do that when I am helping.... rolmao.....

ok aside from that what I am reading I am recommending now "stay clear of that dealership" ! I mean WOW!

Go back and read what I posted.

Oh and lookie here... hmmm filters for YOUR Mazda !!! LOl
RockAuto



Btw just changing the filter and pan fluid is not the only service you will need to do. Completely cleaning the pan of the gung you will find as well cleaning off the magnet. Then with a clean white cloth/rag wiping as much varnish of the exposed parts under and all around the filter. Once you do that the fluid will need to be changed again, drain an d fill at about 5k miles . Or you can have a shop that has the Transmision service machine to do a complete and proper fluid replacement as well clean the pan magnet and replace filter.
You could find a specialized Transmission shop that can do all this as well check the ECU and also pressure test the transmission. But all this will be a few hundred dollars.


To give to an idea of how even a new of the lot Mazda transmission fluid can look as well what it looks like with the pan dropped. On my thread I have pictured the fluid changes and oil analysis over the years.
Mazda3 Things I like to do - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums


Honestly there is not much else I can help with at this point.....

ASE

 

LOL. Sorry that you felt that way :-). I had to dig further when the SA kept telling me the filter is non-serviceable as I believe I saw a YouTube clip somewhere in the past where a guy performed the task. I just posted it here to educate myself and others who want to get an idea about the transmission filter and pan dropped.

I do really appreciate your kind help and thanks for sharing the links!

 

It was more of a joke about the youtube video. that's why the emo's showing that feeling more or less like OMG roll my eye and lol.
For me 90% of those DIY and even some so called "Mechanics" post inaccurate and basically bad or wrong information and procedures. And this as many of us knows extends in almost every aspect of life. LOL MY recommendation is not to use any youtube unless you have vetted it first and know if it is empirical accurate or at least follow some form of proper service procedure?

 

My expectation is that Iffy Lube used their ATF exchange machine to exchange (simultaneously pump in new fluid and pump out your old fluid) and used a Dexron ATF plus a Lubegard-type ATF supplement; that greatly simplifies their inventory and staff training to have just one fluid. That might be OK, but it would be my last choice. First choice for the ATF is the Mazda FZ fluid. Second choice would be a multi-vehicle fluid like Valvoline Maxlife. I use the FZ. The exchange machine does a good job if it is used correctly with the correct fluid.

About that non-serviceable transmission strainer...did you know that Mazda USA has an online parts store? They'll sell you all the Strainer, oil, #FZ01-21-500, that you'd like for $49.94 each. (one is suggested) Transmission strainer Getting down in the technical weeds, a strainer is one thickness of perforated (usually) metal. A filter is more complex with much smaller size passages.

Always remember that the service writer we meet at the dealership is a commission salesman of services, not always a highly trained specialist. Sometimes their most important attribute is that they sound like they know everything about cars.

 

Actually that "exchange machine" has been proven to cause problems in various platform and type of automatic transmission. I do not recommend that method of fluid changing nor advise it.

As for FZ here again it is empirically shown that MAZDA ATF fluid is no better than some like Castrol ATF for MAZDA transmissions, so you do not need to use exclusive FZ from Mazda.
It will NOT void any WARANTY on your transmission by its use either!
Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act - Wikipedia
The strainers (fancy word for the same filter used for decades) are not new and actually are a band-aid for not doing the proper pan and filter service. Most all OEM and aftermarket replacement pan filters really do much less than what most think. If you are going to improve your filtering, then you need to think externally mounted can or inline type filters.

Lats NOT ALL service writers are commissioned based pay. In fact most dealership promote withing the service departments and they get a salary. Sure, there are bonus that many offer for each department in a dealership .
All you need to do is ask is this a necessary service and ask that they place their answer on the service write up. SIMPLE !!!

 

The Magnuson-Moss Act does not allow parts or supplies that don't meet spec. For example, if your GM car specifies Dexron-ULV transmission fluid, you don't need GM's ACDelco brand, any licensed Dexron-ULV fluid is accepted. The problem is that we don't know the specs for products like Mazda FZ fluid. If there was a licensed supplier of FZ, great. Otherwise it's a shot in the dark. Engine oil is made to international standard specs; we don't need engine oil branded by the car maker, we just need an engine oil that meets the engine maker's specification. OE oil filters don't have published specs, so the car maker's labeled filter is safest. If some no-name filter comes apart and clogs the engine, don't expect warranty coverage from the car maker. I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with a top quality WIX/NAPA or Baldwin or other top filter, for example, just that during the warranty period it may save an argument, or court case, to follow spec.

The transmission flushes I've done at home have been by disconnecting a cooler line, start the engine and pump 3 quarts of ATF into a bucket, stop the engine, add 3 new quarts into the filler, pump out 3 more, etc., etc. until I've gone through about 14 quarts and adjusted the level. The results have been good. I put a Racor transmission fluid filter on my truck in a cooler line and a Magnefine in-line transmission filter in a cooler line on my previous car. I got over 200,000 miles on both those vehicles' transmissions without problems. A 1/2" Magnefine filter on the hydraulic power steering return line on the truck kept that rack & pinion steering working like new for the 200+k miles. (I've done a lot of hydraulic machinery work. Automatic transmissions and hydraulic power steering are like any hydraulic system...they require normally-warm clean fluid.)

 

I NEVER said to use none proper and applicated by the manufacture parts on any application anywhere on any thread or forum on any platform ever!

Using ANY AFTERMARKET PARTS that is applicated and installed correctly will NOT in any way effect the WARRANTY.. I suggest anyone that thinks this to contact any auto manufacture direct. Better by email that way you can post thier response on this thread!


Your method of transmission fluid gets us and other shops customers.... It is not a way to do the procedure and more often that not can easily and often does harm transmissions.

Not recommended for anyone reading it to duplicate your method.