Oil change for CX-5
#51
maybe im old fashioned but i cannot bring myself to use 0 20 oil, i live in a desert climate temps are always in the 90's and exceed the 100s on occasion. i been using like all my vehicles royal purple products. we travel long miles here so i just think 0 20 oil does not give enough protection. like i said maybe old fashioned thinking. am i wrong ?
#52
maybe im old fashioned but i cannot bring myself to use 0 20 oil, i live in a desert climate temps are always in the 90's and exceed the 100s on occasion. i been using like all my vehicles royal purple products. we travel long miles here so i just think 0 20 oil does not give enough protection. like i said maybe old fashioned thinking. am i wrong ?
Also keep in mind that thicker oil means higher fuel consumption and higher wear n the engine. New engines are built to tighter specifications and they don't like thick oils.
Plus I'm sure Mazda tested CX-5 in a desert (look at all those commercials from Nevada) - if those temps were harmfull they would say something in the manual.
#54
Resurrection of a thread I know but for future reference, I found this helped:
https://www.mymazda.com/MusaWeb/pdf/...014_CX5_MS.pdf
https://www.mymazda.com/MusaWeb/pdf/...014_CX5_MS.pdf
#55
Oil and oil filter
Mazda recommends 0-20 for the USA market only because it is the oil they used during EPA testing. Using 5-30 (especially in warmer climates where it will break down slower) will NOT void your warranty. Australia, NZ and Mexico CX-5's ship with and are maintained by the dealer network with 5-30.
But all are Castrol Synthetic.
As far as filters go, I have a Mazda PE01-14-302 Filter and a Bosch 3300 filter side by size, and they have identical construction, drain-back valve, and a 38 pleat paper element. I'm pretty sure Mazda used Bosch as their OEM, or Bosch completely copied the filter down to the number of pleats (doubtful, since the Purolator L14602 has a torsion-spring drain-back valve and a 35 pleat paper element.)
So in essence, you are 100% safe running your CX-5 on (Synthetic) 5-30, especially in warmer climates, and using a quality OEM filter from Purolator, K&N/Royal Purple (who use Purolator Max elements ASAIK) or Bosch, without voiding your warranty.
Keep documentation and receipts of your oil changes if you do them yourself. If you have this information, you can fight any voided warranty claims referencing the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.
There's nothing wrong with using OEM of course, but this car is pretty expensive to maintain so saving $5 per filter and buying more readily available, less expensive 5-30 oil will save hundreds over the course of vehicle ownership.
I personally change my synthetic vehicles between 6000-8000 miles. I drive in Chicago traffic which is pretty rough, and we have extreme highs and lows (100's in summer, -10's in Winter) but I generally use 5-30 across all my cars/trucks in the Summer and 5-20 in Winter. I use Royal Purple and Amsoil because I've had great luck with them dating back to racing Mustangs' in the 80's compared to even Mobil1 which caused excessive blowby in my 98 Protégé with 7500-10000 mile oil changes.
In the end Synthetic is worth it. It lasts longer which means less time spent changing oil and paying for people to change oil. Like anything in life, paying for quality once beats paying for quantity twice.
But all are Castrol Synthetic.
As far as filters go, I have a Mazda PE01-14-302 Filter and a Bosch 3300 filter side by size, and they have identical construction, drain-back valve, and a 38 pleat paper element. I'm pretty sure Mazda used Bosch as their OEM, or Bosch completely copied the filter down to the number of pleats (doubtful, since the Purolator L14602 has a torsion-spring drain-back valve and a 35 pleat paper element.)
So in essence, you are 100% safe running your CX-5 on (Synthetic) 5-30, especially in warmer climates, and using a quality OEM filter from Purolator, K&N/Royal Purple (who use Purolator Max elements ASAIK) or Bosch, without voiding your warranty.
Keep documentation and receipts of your oil changes if you do them yourself. If you have this information, you can fight any voided warranty claims referencing the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.
There's nothing wrong with using OEM of course, but this car is pretty expensive to maintain so saving $5 per filter and buying more readily available, less expensive 5-30 oil will save hundreds over the course of vehicle ownership.
I personally change my synthetic vehicles between 6000-8000 miles. I drive in Chicago traffic which is pretty rough, and we have extreme highs and lows (100's in summer, -10's in Winter) but I generally use 5-30 across all my cars/trucks in the Summer and 5-20 in Winter. I use Royal Purple and Amsoil because I've had great luck with them dating back to racing Mustangs' in the 80's compared to even Mobil1 which caused excessive blowby in my 98 Protégé with 7500-10000 mile oil changes.
In the end Synthetic is worth it. It lasts longer which means less time spent changing oil and paying for people to change oil. Like anything in life, paying for quality once beats paying for quantity twice.
#56
recently purchesed a new cx5. Spoke to AMS oil rep about the 7500 mile change standards that Mazda states in order to keep your warranty in effect. I wanted to use 25,000 oil. I've been using AMS 25,000 mile synthetic in my Tundra and Suziki for years and changed the oil filter again at 12,500 half way through. AMS told me that a federal court case was won about 8 years ago stating that auto manufactures cannot deny owners warranty repair if they followed the recommended oil dump time line set by oil manufactures. I'm running 25K as AMSOIL recommends with their Signature series. Also their oil filters.
#57
G'day, I purchased a 2013 CX5 GT 2.2 diesel last year in Queensland . Have just started doing my own servicing. Has anyone discovered the procedure to reset the "engine oil data" manually, without taking it to a Mazda dealership? I read on another forum a technique that works on the Mazda 6 diesel, but the connectors under the bonnet/hood appear to be different in the CX5. Any clues?
#58
G'day, I purchased a 2013 CX5 GT 2.2 diesel last year in Queensland . Have just started doing my own servicing. Has anyone discovered the procedure to reset the "engine oil data" manually, without taking it to a Mazda dealership? I read on another forum a technique that works on the Mazda 6 diesel, but the connectors under the bonnet/hood appear to be different in the CX5. Any clues?