I changed my oil and filter at 5000 kms. A little early, but I always do. The change was way simplier then my 07 3. No lower tray removal. Just an access door that requires a flathead screw driver. The filter and the drain plug are very close together.
I used a genuine Mazda filter with 0w20 Castrol Syntec Titanium. Even though I like this oil, genuine Mazda oil is getting rave reviews from the oil forum guys. It has added Moly in it, which seems to help with friction and fuel economy. I will buy that at 10 K.
Why change the oil so much, why not. It's easy enough. Besides, have you seen how tiny that filter is, how much dirt can that possibly hold.
My 3's engine looked like brand new when I traded it in at 130 kms.

After my 10 k change, I might push the oil until for another 10 and just change the filter at 5 k.

 

Please keep us informed on this issue and solution(s).

I've heard Austrailia owners are getting new dipsticks too.

 

Yes there is a revised dipstick available ( in NZ ). Not sure if it will be a recall or just a case by case replacement.

 

I took my car to the dealership for the first oil change. They put conventional oil 5w-30. The dealer said that my car can use that oil due the tropical temperatures in Puerto Rico. Should I can go back to synthethic? The manual saids: OW-20 full syntherhic for USA and Canada. Any sugestions?


Thanks

 

IMO, that's what it says in the owners manual and that's what Mazda Service department says, therefore ok.

Note per owners manual:

Canada and Puerto Rico residents follow Schedule 2 (so the oil changes are done at more frequent intervals than in the US with synthetic)

 

I took my car back to the dealership. They re-do the oil change with synthetic OW-20.

 

Interesting, here in New Zealand, the only oil supplied & recommended by Mazda NZ for petrol powered vehicles is conventional 5w-30 oil.

 

I am not a Tech but I just changed the oil on my wife's Cx-5 without a lift. The plate has two bolt head screws and one push type plastic rivet. It is located across from the passenger side tire.

I just reached under and un-did the screws and used a forked screw driver and pulled out the pop rivet. It went flying, so I put one back in from the supply I have for my daughter's Camry Hybrid.

I never drain the oil in my cars, I just suck it out through the dip stick tube. Then you never have to worry if the drain bolt is leaking or put on new washers. I heard Mercedes drains the oil that way. I have to do that in my Yamaha boat with twin Mr-1 engines that rev at 10,000 RPMs.

 

Guys, everyone is making this much harder than it needs to be. Do not remove the rivet, only remove the screws. By leaving the rivet in place I just rotated the plastic cover out of the way and it stayed hanging in place. I did this because why else would they use a rivet and not another screw. It worked beautifully and was a piece of cake. The only trouble I had was that I bought a socket type filter wrench and it was too small for the Mazda oil filter. It of course fits the new Mobil filter perfectly. So beware before you drain your oil, and make sure your wrench fits the Mazda filter.

 

The owners manual appears to instruct me to goto the dealer and give no instruction how the owner would change the oil/Filter.
I have seen in other posts there is a sealing washer that needs to be replaced.
I even purchased a service manual on CD for the 2013 CX-5, 2 Liters and I do not see any information about the drain plug torque or even the filter tightening requirements.