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Clutch problem diagnosis?

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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 07:22 PM
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Default Clutch problem diagnosis?

My clutch has started to act up about two weeks ago. Randomly it wouldn't come back up after depressing it to shift. I would have to quickly stick some toes behind the pedal and pull it back for it to go back to the correct position. I have plenty of fluid in the hydraulic reservoir. It also recently started to engaged much closer to the floor instead of about half way out. Any ideas? Maybe the spring on the clutch pedal is going bad? I haven't crawled down there to look yet. Anybody else ever have this problem?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2021 | 05:30 AM
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Most likely the master or slave cylinders are worn & the fluid is bypassing the internal seals.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2021 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by grim_reaper
Most likely the master or slave cylinders are worn & the fluid is bypassing the internal seals.
This. I recommend replacing BOTH clutch master and clutch slave at a time, from my experience. I've had my '88 B2200 since 1994 and had same issues a couple of times.

Clutch cylinders hints and tips (1) Bench-bleed the clutch master cylinder before installing.

(2) Loosen the line fitting at the slave cylinder a little before unbolting it from the transmission housing - and thread in and mostly tighten before bolting the slave cylinder back on during re-assembly

(3) Use a flare wrench for initial loosening and final tightening of the lines.

(4) Don't bend the line after it's loose.

(5) Thread in the line fitting several turns by hand to avoid cross-threading, maybe even get this started before tightening the clutch MC mounting bolts.

(6) Flush out ALL the old fluid when bleeding the system.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2021 | 09:36 PM
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Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 23, 2021 | 01:12 AM
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I'm really busy right now, so I just took the truck to a local shop and had them replace the Master and slave cylinders. Clutch works great. Now I want to get the bed coated by Line-X or equivalent.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2021 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by LN323
I'm really busy right now, so I just took the truck to a local shop and had them replace the Master and slave cylinders. Clutch works great.
Good !!

I am curious how much such job would run at a shop???? I would guess 1 hour flat rate labor and parts marked up to about $125, so maybe $225-$250. Am I close?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2021 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Cusser
Good !!

I am curious how much such job would run at a shop???? I would guess 1 hour flat rate labor and parts marked up to about $125, so maybe $225-$250. Am I close?
Haha! I had the master and slave cylinders replaced along with all the rubber tubing at a Mazda dealership I was near when my clutch stopped working. $900+ after parts and labor.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2021 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by The Lizard King
Haha! I had the master and slave cylinders replaced along with all the rubber tubing at a Mazda dealership I was near when my clutch stopped working. $900+ after parts and labor.
Wow ! Guess one reason I'm comfortably retired is that I do such stuff by myself. Yesterday I fixed a broken heater coil in my old Maytag dryer. How old? Let's just say that when I moved into this house in 1988 that I bought a used washer/dryer/refrigerator for $600, and the dryer still lives.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2024 | 07:10 PM
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From: Goroka, EASTERN HIGHLANDS PROVINCE, PNG
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Originally Posted by LN323
My clutch has started to act up about two weeks ago. Randomly it wouldn't come back up after depressing it to shift. I would have to quickly stick some toes behind the pedal and pull it back for it to go back to the correct position. I have plenty of fluid in the hydraulic reservoir. It also recently started to engaged much closer to the floor instead of about half way out. Any ideas? Maybe the spring on the clutch pedal is going bad? I haven't crawled down there to look yet. Anybody else ever have this problem?
yes I am having the same problem and I'm looking for way to resolve it once and for all
 
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Old Aug 23, 2024 | 08:26 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Romel
yes I am having the same problem and I'm looking for way to resolve it once and for all

From Post #3 in this thread:
Originally Posted by grim_reaper
Most likely the master or slave cylinders are worn & the fluid is bypassing the internal seals.
This. I recommend replacing BOTH clutch master and clutch slave at a time, from my experience. I've had my '88 B2200 since 1994 and had same issues a couple of times.

Clutch cylinders hints and tips
(1) Bench-bleed the clutch master cylinder before installing.

(2) Loosen the line fitting at the slave cylinder a little before unbolting it from the transmission housing - and thread in and mostly tighten before bolting the slave cylinder back on during re-assembly

(3) Use a flare wrench for initial loosening and final tightening of the lines.

(4) Don't bend the line after it's loose.

(5) Thread in the line fitting several turns by hand to avoid cross-threading, maybe even get this started before tightening the clutch MC mounting bolts.

(6) Flush out ALL the old fluid when bleeding the system.
 
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