nevermind straight 50 engine oil is the equivilent to 90 weight gear oil so i will have the same problem i guess i will go with 75w90 synthetic

 

Anyone know where to get step by step instructions on how to replace a master cylinder? My clutch fluid is leaking slowly. I replaced the slave cylinder but it still leaks. Any helpful replys would be fantastic! Thx- Rad

 

This is pretty straightforward. I suggest a replacement MC with a lifetime warranty. Hints are to use a flare wrench for initial loosening and tightening of the fluid line, and bench-bleeding the MC before installation.

See http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...00c15280076e2c

 

As a rule, the slave fails before the master, but the master is usually in pretty poor shape. It doesn't have to leak; what happens is that the master piston seal wears and starts to bypass fluid, thus robbing the clutch system of its full stroke. Since the leak is internal, there is no visible clue. In a severe case you can depress the clutch pedal very slowly and the slave piston won't move at all. The displaced fluid ends up behind the master piston, and when the clutch is released, it just creeps back to where it belongs, so there isn't even a decrease in reservoir level to give the game away.

 

you guys who had trouble get the clutch adjusted, did you fix it? I also have replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system properly. The main problem is that the cluth pedal gets sucked to the floor and stays there, I have to pull by hand when driving and pump a few times quickly to build up pressure and
then shift, should I adjust first or just get a master cylinder and replace it. it looked straightforward to do that but if you have done it lately give me some tips please. Thanks

 

MY ORIGINAL POSTING IS QUOTED BELOW. WHATI DID WAS ADJUST THE CLUTCH PEDAL, WHICH IS REALLY MAKING THE PUSH ROD GOING INTO THE MASTER CYLINDER THROUGH THE FIREWALL. IT IS ATTACHED TO THE CLUTH PEDAL. IT IS MUCH BETTER NOW THOUGH NOT PERFECT, CLUTCH IS STIFFER AND VERY LITTLE STICKING TO THE FLOOR. I AM STILL MYTIFIED WHY IT WOULD UCK THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR IN THE FIRST PLACE. OH WELL IT IS OPERABLE AND I DID NOT HAVE TO REPLACE THE MASTER CYLINDER AND HAVE A NEW SLAVE CYLINDER WHICH ONLY COS $11.80 +TAX AND A LITTLE WORK UNDER THE CAR AND SOME BLEEDING(NOT BY ME ,THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. I LEARNED FROM OTHER PEOPLES QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. SO I GUESS JOINING THE FORUM WAS A GOOD THING. BOB

"you guys who had trouble get the clutch adjusted, did you fix it? I also have replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system properly. The main problem is that the cluth pedal gets sucked to the floor and stays there, I have to pull by hand when driving and pump a few times quickly to build up pressure and
then shift, should I adjust first or just get a master cylinder and replace it. it looked straightforward to do that but if you have done it lately give me some tips please. Thanks

 

Bob (Surrender2): I think you should replace the clutch master cylinder, soon. Once mine started hanging down like yours did, it was OK for a short while after that (in fact, perfect) but within a week I needed to replace it, to fix the problem. It started getting worse. I figured it was better to fix it when I got to choose the place and time to do so.

 

It is running very well, but i adjusted the pedal so the clutch is very firm, which I like because I am heavy footed. I am keeping It in mind to change the clutch MC. Thanks for replying.

 

Gearbox oils are altogether different from engine oils; If you are Canuckstani, go for the low viscosity version (usually 75-90) of what Mazda recommends.
The clutch throwout bearing is a sealed lubricated for life type and if you start doing "creative lubrication" you can end up leaching the grease out and ruining it. Similarly, shaft seals can be damaged by use of an incorrect lubricant.