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-   -   b2200 clutch (https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/mazda-bt-50-pickup-trucks-18/b2200-clutch-19227/)

canucksfan1 06-29-2009 04:41 PM

b2200 clutch
 
Well i am having some trouble switching my truck into second, and third when accelerating and down into 2nd and 1st while de-celerating. It only happens when at higher rpm, and while it is cold, once it warms up it is alot better.

Just wondering what it would be??? Clutch or syncros or what??? Any ideas???

hixx 06-29-2009 07:02 PM

Clutch master or slave cylinders or pilot bearing usually. Slight possibility of synchro/hug/sleeve problems.

canucksfan1 06-29-2009 07:43 PM

there was a leak from the slave cylinder so that has been replaced. I have also replaced the trans fluid.

I could try replacing the master cylinder if that might help

Are there any test i can do to try and figure outwhat te problem is without pulling it all apart too much

hixx 06-29-2009 08:50 PM

You can look under the dash where the master cylinder rod comes through the firewall for signs of fluid seeping from it. The master cylinder can also leak internally though. The master cylinder rod is threaded with a nut on it to lock it so can be adjusted some. You can check the slave cylinder by pulling the rubber boot back and if there is fluid in the boot the slave is leaking. Pilot bearings generally make noise when depressing the clutch.

canucksfan1 06-29-2009 10:36 PM

well i replaced the slave cuz it was leaking, and haven't notic a loss of fluid since so i am pretty sure the master isn't leaking. The peddle still feels good.

Cusser 06-30-2009 08:26 AM

Have someone press down the clutch pedal all the way as you are underneath looking at the release lever on the transmission (this is a ton safer if the engine ISN'T running). You need to see if the release lever on the transmission is moving all the way, and holds there when the pedal is held down. If not, then you have a hydraulics issue, like some air still in the system causing the lever not to move all the way. If that lever is moving all the way when pedal is pushed, then the issue would be in the bell housing or in the transmission. And if you haven't changed the transmission oil (gear oil, NOT ATF), this would be a great time to try that as well.

canucksfan1 06-30-2009 10:19 AM

thanks for the info i will give it a look this weekend (saturday is usually pretty slow i should be able to bring it in a bay then)

Also i changed the fluid about 2 weeks ago with no noticeble effect on shifting (the old oil was pretty black tho so i am glad i did)

So is a hydraulic issue something that would go away once the operating temp goes up??? Just wondering cuz it is only hard to shift when i first drive it, once everything warms up it is pretty much back to normal.

hixx 06-30-2009 10:35 PM

If you put too thick an oil in a transmission it will be hard to shift cold. Once it warms up the fluid thins out.

mazdab2600 07-01-2009 06:44 AM


Originally Posted by hixx (Post 94173)
If you put too thick an oil in a transmission it will be hard to shift cold. Once it warms up the fluid thins out.

yep cheap gear oil cost me more in the end.
did the oil change in the summer last year with a cheap brand from canadian tire here.ended up changing it again to i think it was quaker state gear oil.
cheap stuff just seemed to keep the tranny engaged.would get a slight grind between shifts till it was warmed up.

watch for the grades as well.think the cheap one was an 80w90 and the quaker was 75w90.

API GL-4 or GL-5 80W-90 or 75W-90 gear lube is recommended

canucksfan1 07-01-2009 04:18 PM

I heard alot of people use 50 weight heady duty engine oil??? Is this a good idea???


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