Ok so this is what I’m dealing with first time working on a carburetor engine. I did check the float and it’s hold pressure.

 

Yep. I knew it was going to be nasty inside. Get some carb cleaner in the aerosol spray cans and clean it out the best that you can.......paper towels help soak up the gunk in the bowl after spraying in there. Once the inside is cleaned up, remove the jets and plugs with a blade screwdriver and clean those on the inside. You may want to draw a simple diagram of the inside of the carb, and take plenty of pictures disassembling the carb items, so you can look back at them to help in the reassembly. Watch out for small steel or aluminum check ***** inside the passages before blowing them out!

 

Update: I cleaned out the carburetor bowl truck is not bucking anymore no need to give it full throttle. Truck is idling a lot better. Only thing i still notice engine still shakes a little at idle can’t seem to balance out and at a stand still if I rev the engine and hold at 1.5 to 2k rpms it shakes, still needs a bit more power, And the fuel consumption is still bad, I can smell fuel at times. But truck runs much better. Here is a video of start up after I put everything back the smoke went away afterwards.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0baWvcVgbhL9hyaQR9MXPXE8A

 

So I drove the truck around and it’s driving me crazy how much gas it’s consuming, it’s actually consuming even more than it did before I cleaned the bowl. It’s really bad plus it still smells like gas.

 

The truck is probably in Limp Mode to keep from running too lean and damaging the engine. The stock carbs are very hard to diagnose, but if you have the factory service manual, there is a troubleshooting guide in there for it. Good luck, as you will need it......you will need dwell meter to check the dwell reading on the fuel mixture solenoid, and many other tests and procedures......not impossible, but quite a bit of troubleshooting involved.

Check ALL of the vacuum hoses for breaks AND where they are connected.......there shouldn't be any plugged vacuum hoses, all vacuum hoses should be connected to some device. You may want to remove and clean out the EGR valve also.......more than likely, it is clogged with carbon.......if it gets held in the opened position from carbon buildup, it won't idle, unless someone has adjusted the Idle Screw to compensate.

Keep letting us know how you are doing.......sounds like the carb bowl cleaning helped some anyway!

 

Happy Labor Day! Still working on this turd. I have a new problem. On a cold start the truck idles very low to the point that it dies, i have to be given it gas because if I don’t it just dies. After it warms up it idles fine.

 

Check that choke butterfly is essentially horizontal when engine is cold. And make sure that the choke heater wire is plugged into the rear of the alternator.

 

I have already check the plug behind the alternator and it’s good.

Choke butterfly stays open when truck is turned on, won’t close.

If truck is off and I come to the engine bay and manually pull the accelerator butterfly closes but once I turn on truck it opens up again as soon as I step o. The accelerator and truck starts shaking bad and dies.

 

Choke open when cold = tougher to start, bad idle until engine warms up. The butterfly must be able to move.

 

With a carbureted vehicle, there is a warm-up period, when starting the cold engine. Once the engine starts, you should let it warm up some before touching the gas pedal with your foot......this keeps the choke fully activated. After 2-4 minutes you can "goose" the throttle and the choke should disengage partially.......if it is fully disengaging, then the choke plate tension may need to be adjusted......by loosening the three small screws on the choke heater, and rotating the choke heater in the direction that increases the spring tension on the choke plate. This will keep the choke plate engaged for a longer period of time. Once the choke heater (and the heat from the running engine) has heated up enough, it will cause the bi-metal choke coil spring (behind the choke heater, inside the carb choke casting) to expand and therefore rotate to disengage the choke plate at the top of the carb.