93 626 4cyl rough idle and stalling
#1
93 626 4cyl rough idle and stalling
I have a 93 626 4 cyl manual trans... It has very rough idle (constantly) and stalls intermitantly while driving.....New fuel filter, IAC, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and MAF....No help.....Once it stalls it cranks but won't fire....If you remove the neg battery terminal lug momntarily and re install it will fire right up????? Any help woulb be apprciated.......Thanks
#2
RE: 93 626 4cyl rough idle and stalling
That sounds like what I am going thru with a 94 automatic, I would check for vacuum leak also. The only thing Ive done that you havent so far is pull the EGR valve and clean it out and make sure the diafram moves freely, I would do that before replceing it ($200 or more new).
how is your air filter?
How about access to a code reader/diagnostics It will help track down some electronic problems without just buying new parts.
check the air intake tube to make sure there are no cracks in it letting in unmeasured air. check the fuel pressure. as suggested by some one for me.
how is your air filter?
How about access to a code reader/diagnostics It will help track down some electronic problems without just buying new parts.
check the air intake tube to make sure there are no cracks in it letting in unmeasured air. check the fuel pressure. as suggested by some one for me.
#3
RE: 93 626 4cyl rough idle and stalling
Please see my reply to 94, 626 stalling.
It would run OK and whenI gave it some gas in neutral or driving it would die. It wouldjust go from 3,000 RPM to0 in an instant. Before you spend any money on this check to see that the timing is correct because it may be running out of advance, failing the transistor in the ignition module. Then you have a stall. Some dealerships let the crank position sensor and approximate timing position do all the work- no good.
My car ignition timing was previously set by a Mazda dealership. It was off a few ( 7 )degreesand killed my transistor in the ignition trying to keep up.
I solved my problem by replacing the distributor complete with cap rotor coil and circuitry all at once. Best price was from a bone yard. Just check the timing.
Pulley mark to TDC on plastic shield, position #1 of rotor to cap position #1.
It would run OK and whenI gave it some gas in neutral or driving it would die. It wouldjust go from 3,000 RPM to0 in an instant. Before you spend any money on this check to see that the timing is correct because it may be running out of advance, failing the transistor in the ignition module. Then you have a stall. Some dealerships let the crank position sensor and approximate timing position do all the work- no good.
My car ignition timing was previously set by a Mazda dealership. It was off a few ( 7 )degreesand killed my transistor in the ignition trying to keep up.
I solved my problem by replacing the distributor complete with cap rotor coil and circuitry all at once. Best price was from a bone yard. Just check the timing.
Pulley mark to TDC on plastic shield, position #1 of rotor to cap position #1.
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