I purchased a 1989 Mazda 323 base model three months ago. It has 55k miles and was sitting for approximately 7 years. The motor cranks but will not start. When I spray started fluid it will start for a couple seconds 50% of the times I try it. If I crank for 20~ seconds continuously it will sound like it is about to start, but as soon as I let off of the starter it dies. One time I was cranking it with the gas pedal floored, it started went to 5k RPM then died immediately after.

What I have done so far:
-Checked all four spark plugs for spark
-Changed oil and filter/air filter
-New fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injectors.
-Main relay and fuel pump relay are in working order
-ECU and the connectors going to injectors have power
-All vacuum lines appear to not have any holes
-Fuel rail has pressure. (I haven’t put it on a gauge but when I crack it open it sprays everywhere)

Other notes:
-The new fuel pump assembly I ordered did not come with a new fuel tank gauge. The old tank gauge connector did not line up with the new assembly. I installed the new fuel pump without a gauge.
-There is a short wire coming off of the bottom of the coil. The connecter that holds the wire in place is broken. The fuel pump will not run without this connector held in place. ( I normally use a tie strap for temporary purposes, Shown in picture 2)
-On the upper driver side firewall there are two bright green connecters that are not connected to anything. (Shown in picture three)
-Lastly THANK YOU for reading this and helping me. I am in a major bind right now with no transportation for school and work.

Pictures:

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Putting the gas pedal to the floor puts the engine in Clear Flood Mode. Essentially, this turns OFF the fuel injectors to allow any fuel in the combustion chamber to burn off. Try that again, this time release the throttle after the quick start while still cranking. Try releasing all but a slight pressure on the throttle and see if that doesn't help get it running. I'm trying to recall if the Mass Air Flow Sensor, mounted in the air box, is the style with a door or flap type set up. If so, make sure it moves freely. Sounds like you have the right ingredients, air, spark and fuel, just have to figure out why the fuel delivery is off.

I believe the green connectors are for early model diag testers.

By the way, starting fluid is good for two things. Priming a diesel when it ran out of fuel and killing wasps. Starting fluid is too violent to use in your engine. Substitute with regular carb cleaner if you must use anything at all.