Hi to all Mazda owners.weve just joined the forum as we need some help restarting our Mazda 2 mpv after non use for 3 months.the battery was dead when I tried to start it,and have charged the battery which is holding 13 volts,and when I connected it,the alarm keeps going off. I,m presuming the alarm needs resetting? There is only a normal key with the car,and not a fob ,so cant use key fob method. Any ideas on alarm reset for this model? It's a Mazda 2 mpv right hand drive.2003.any help much appreciated.

 

"Most cars make the alarm system go off when the battery is replaced - or when the battery is run completely flat, then jumped off. To shut off the alarm when you jump it off or replace the battery, the following generally works: shut off the engine, close all doors, lock the vehicle from the driver door with the key, not the remote. Wait 1 minute. Open the driver door with the key (not the remote function), then start the engine with the key." or " In the drivers side door I held the key towards the UNLOCK position for about 3 or 4 seconds which seems to disable the alarm so I could then open the door without the alarm going off." that what i read. Hope it helps you.

 

Many thanks for your help.
The Mazda is now operating normally thanks to your help.
I did as you advised and locked all doors,then connected battery,then held drivers door lock on open position for a few seconds, the alarm then turned off,and the car started ok.
Many thanks again for such a swift reply.

 

With my 2004 Mazda 2, I had to allow the engine to run long enough so when I turned to car off, I could lock all doors from locking the driver side door with the key or with the fob. Only then I could unlock it again & that disabled the alarm for car use. Took me a few hours to work that one out lol

 

Thank you for the information.

For my 2004 MPV. I closed all doors, stayed outside. I didn’t wait for the minute before I pressed the “unlock” button on the remote of the key and the alarm stopped (was disabled) straight away.

 

False alarm triggering at night several times. My friendly Mazda dealer checked the alarm log and confirmed the alarm had triggered due to the front passenger door being opened (which it wasn't).
Checked the contacts in the door lock mechanism which tell the microprocessor the doorlock status (open or closed) and with the door closed and the doorlock mechanism switch closed, the contact resistance was over 100 ohms - should be zero or close to zero. Mechanism can't be dismantled to get at the contacts to clean them. New doorlock assembly is £150!
I fixed it for nothing. The problem is that the metal switch contacts oxidise over time (12 years now) and oxide does not conduct electricity. This is not usually a problem in most circuits because so long as a certain minimum current, at least 10 milliamps, passes through the contacts when closed, the oxide film is broken down and a good metal-to-metal contact is made. This is known as the "Wetting current". However, in the doorlock circuit the contacts feed into the doorlock microprocessor and the current is tiny, about 3 milliamps, allowing the oxide film to form until eventually it looks like the doorlock switch is open, indicating incorrectly that the door itself is open and the alarm will trigger, or the remote locking will not operate.
Remove the door trim and disconnect the round white connector near the doorlock. Use a multimeter to identify the two pins for the doorlock status switch - on my 2010 car they are the two outer pins of the group of three larger pins, may not be exactly the same on other models. With the multimeter set to an Ohms range, should show zero ohms with the door closed (operate the lock with a screwdriver shaft or similar) and Infinity (open circuit) with the door lock open. My passenger door lock showed 100 to 200 ohms with the doorlock closed.
Make up two short wires with connectors to push onto these two terminal pins. This is the tricky bit, finding connectors small enough to fit without them touching each other. Also make up a 9 volt PP3 battery with a small 12 volt bulb in series, such as a number plate light bulb, this will take a current of around 600 milliamps. Connect to the two wires you fitted to the switch so that operating the doorlock will light the bulb. Repeat ten times. Check the contact resistance again and you should find that it is now zero when closed.
I did this a year ago to fix my passenger doorlock switch and there have been no false alarms since then. Today, the car would not lock with the remote so I guessed it could be the driver's front doorlock switch. Made the same checks, contact resistance was around 1000 ohms, used the same battery-and-bulb fix, problem solved and another £150 saved.

 

I could lock all doors from locking the driver side door with the key or with the fob. Only then I could unlock it again & that disabled the alarm for car use.






Nox Vidmate VLC

 

I could unlock it again & that disabled the alarm for car use. Took me a few hours to work that one out lol

 

My car is 13 years old. What I really want to do is to totally disable the alarm system instead of fixing it.
In addition to sensors on the doors, there are also ultrasonic sensors inside the car. All these components are getting old and failing.
Any links on how to do that would be greatly appreciated. Right now, I pulled out the fuse for the horn so that the alarm doesn't disturb the neighbors, which disabled the horn.

 

Sorry, I don't think I can help with this - here in the UK we have a different alarm to the rest of the world, as required by UK insurance companies. Our cars have a loud Piezo siren behind the trim panel in the boot, sorry, Trunk area and unplugging this will disable the alarm. I expect your system would have a link wire from the alarm system to the horn circuit, and if you can locate that I'm sure it would stop any false alarm sounding the horn while still letting the horn operate normally from the steering wheel push button. You will have to beg a dealer for a look at the wiring schematic.