Signature (Google Him or ask me in a PM for his contact info...)

Made me a Kick *** Coolant Overflow...







Boost Controller is on AN4...

 

Ten Random Shots...


The car is being run and driven this weekend..

Everything should work fine..

 

Lots of late nights I see (Monster Energy Drinks). Don't want to be doing that work while sleep walking!
I don't know how you are going to keep that engine cool driving around the city with no rad fan. You did mention about water pump flowing at different times for temperature, but it still has to cool down thru rad?! I'm quite sure you have a great rad, but still...
Hope it works out for you. $$$$$$$$$ (throw some my way?)

 

Go to the prev page and you will see he has twin rad fans.
Can't wait to see the start up video.

 

THANX. Twin fans in front of the rad. Unique----makes more room in behind. Keep up the good work.

 

Coolant Return Plate is done.

The AN16 Goes to the Rad
The AN4 Comes from the WG and Turbo Cooling Line
The Brass Thing is the CTS.

 

The ***ker runs.

Regular Leaks being fixed. Clutch being bled better.

Wanted to point out that the initial cranking was insanely difficult, but after no more than 5 minutes of running, it spins freely.

I'm really liking having more battery, especially with all the high load devices like Water Pump and Cooling fans.

So today I spent learning about all the new products.

The 505 Manifold does not like the Perrin Fuel Rail. If you use the OEM plastic spacers, it Effs up the alignment and creates an air leak.

The AWR oil pan leaks like a ****. I put a ton of Permitex Black on it and it cured for a really long time. The pan lip is so warped that even with the bolts snugged tight, oil is simply able to be blown out the front of the motor. A bit disapointing for something that costs so much... Saturday I suppose I am taking the Ex System off and the oil pan as well to reseal it. This time I'm going to empty the entire tube on it and see if that works.

The combination of the 2.0L and the GT3071 is Fantastic. I replayed a log of my last drive.

The MP5T posted a 9.7 PSI at 3025 RPM and 12% TPS.

I have to resist the urge to push down. The tune is sloppy and the motor only has 250 Km on it.

The cooling system ROCKS!

Today...


An if you had never noticed... There is actually only 1mm of clearance between the rim and the caliper on the 14" * Piston brakes.



All the major things are sorted out.

One minor thing was that the new alternator was slightly out of alignment, causing the belt to squeal. It is impossible to move the alternator so the next easy way to get the belt to lign up is to move it on the crank pulley.

There is a natural hump in the pulley that was machined down.

I now have a 5 groove belt that is 27.5" long so I can leave it loose, but still get full grip on the alternator.



EDIT:

So the belt had to be moved two grooves over.. No Squeak, 14.5v awesome... Now the car is enjoyable to drive... Time to start tuning and putting on some miles..

You can clearly see that the belt is now able to ride in the middle where there used to be a hump.
I have ordered a 5 and 6 Groove belt, the plan is that I will be able to leave it quite slack compared to stock and minimize the loss to friction, plus it will be better on the main bearings..

 

Breaking In The New Motor.mpeg - YouTube

 

Such a tease with the ten second video.
Yea my turbo build on my last car, I was chasing stupid leaks for a week or two. So fustrating.
Let me know if you want some nice projector retrofits for the new and improved ride.

 

I am interested...

can you email

brianmp5t@gmail.com...


So for the last years I have been using the tachometer to judge my speed. I had removed the stock ECU completely from the car which meant that needed to remove the stock instrumentation.

The IQ3 dash that I have can display anything that is connected to the Haltech standalone.

I have installed a hall effect sensor on the left rear hub, with a plan to install two more on the front output (Each Side of the diff)

There is a magnet that passes by the sensor, and when it is calibrated, the ECU will log and display the speed.