Forgot to mention the PVC system, Intake manifold gaskets, throttle body gaskets.

It seems like you've taken the necessary steps or the obvious things have been mentioned. I'm just going to ramble off some odd ball things to perhaps stimulate some dialogue:

1) I know there are codes related to O2 sensors not working or shorts in the wiring, but is it possible that the O2 sensor is bad (not dead) or not working properly and needs to be replaced?

2) I've also heard that the gas cap on these cars is suspect. Not sure if this would be causing a lean code, but then again it may affect the performance of the fuel pump which could be root cause of your problem (if it hasn't been checked).

3) Maybe its time to simply replace, rather than continuously clean, your MAF.

Also, it seems every time you take it somewhere something is disconnected or mickey moused together. It might not be a bad idea to double check that all your fuel injectors, coils, hose, oil dipstick etc. are properly seated/connected.

 

And I totally understand you not wanting to simply throw money at a problem with your fingers crossed that it will work. Plus its hard to put your faith in a mechanic/dealership who are there to make money. Its always good to get an unbiased opinion through these forums to spot if a mechanic is trying to BS you.

 

Checked the O2 sensor on a machine at the mechanics, they said it was functioning properly. this scanner I got has a test for O2 sensor, I'll try that out. The first thing I did when I brought it in, is they replaced the O2 sensor which didn't fix the problem.

I put a new gas cap in. Not getting any EVAP codes. The code reader has an evap test I believe.

Yeah, the MAF may need to go. I obviously need a new intake housing.

I want to take a series of live data, record it, and check it out over the weekend.

 

Was checking the live data, I was noting that if I got over about 1100rpms, my LTFT numbers would jump from about 10% to 18-20%. Not sure what that means but I'll look around.

looking at this:
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/elect...171-p0174.html

Also, it noted that the emissions system was "amber" (they have a red, green and yellow for the emissions status) still looking at what that means.

will be doing a fuel pressure test in a week or so (can't get in at mechanics beforehand and he's pretty busy this weekend).

My thinking is leaking fuel injector or a fuel pump/filter issue....

 

Your difference in LTFT #'s could be due to the car warming up (going from open to closed loop)? Was your engine up to temp when you started the scan?

Also, from your previous post it didn't seem that there was much difference in your Trim levels from Bank 1 to Bank 2. So unless all fuel injectors are dirty or bad I'd start with the things that are common to both banks (MAF & Fuel Pump/filter after the pressure test of course).

 

Yeah, looking at the numbers, it seems like the lean condition is affecting both banks. I'll try it again and monitor when its warm. all the O2 sensors passed the self test. still learning how it works. its great to have a code reader so i know if anything else is popping up.

 

Update: checked again. still only getting PO174 on occasion. But both LTFT numbers are at 20.3 when I checked it today at both idle and under load.



I'm going to clean my MAF again later, re-tighten everything and check the numbers again to see if that makes any difference at all. I notice the car performs a lot better after I clean the maf, then less so as time goes on.

 

The #8 3/4" screw fit nicely and is holding the MAF in place. The #6 1" is too long, there's something stopping it from screwing in. Cleaned my MAF, checking it out again.....

 

Until you seal that mickey mouse "copper?" tube going in to the accordian tube (as per pic on Page 11, Post #88), you will more than likely get lean codes. if you want to mickey mouse the seal then put some silicone all around it letting it dry at least overnight. First try to pull back that tube so it's not sticking in too far inside the Accordian tube.

 

I'll try it out. not sure it'll do anything. I took closer (although blurry) pics of that broken part, doesn't look like air escapes through.



I'll try to go to an exhaust/muffler shop and look at options for new intake like that K&N you showed me.

When I go to the mechanic this coming Saturday, I'll have him do the fuel pressure test and check for any air leaks, especially ones not on the main vacuum lines or hidden under the engine cover, etc...., I'm thinking it may be in the intake plenum like you said earlier or the intake manifold, where I had a leak before. Hopefully we get it figured out so this thread can be settled!