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Problem with identifying location of Upstream Oxygen Sensor - Mazda 6 GH 2008 TS2 Pet

Old Apr 25, 2025 | 11:33 AM
  #11  
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Hey,

So the only fault code I'm getting at the moment is DTC U151(00) - SRS control module - no communication.
I tried clearing it but it came back.

Could this cause my issues ? Can the car jerk when that module loses connection ?
And that's why all my issues are so random and sporadic ?
I do not have the airbag light on the dash though.

By the way, I do have a problem with one of the module controlling the dashboard or indicator lights.
When I have my lights on, and I use indicator, the dimming changes on all of the lights up and down, and at some points the whole dash goes dark.
I have to restart my lights for the dashboard light to come back.
Then issue happens again when I use one of the indicators.

Could this be related ?


 

Last edited by United Kingdom; Apr 25, 2025 at 11:36 AM.
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Old Apr 25, 2025 | 11:47 AM
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Hmm .......what scanner did you get. Please give brand and model.

You are lacking basic ECU scanned information that should be there based on your issues?

I might add stop clearing codes at the moment all you are doing is estialul.ly turning of the check engine light. This is BIG misconception DIY as well some mechanics do. There is a time and specific reason for doing that but not yet.
Your SRS system should ne be the cause of the original issue. A totally separate system.
 

Last edited by Callisto; Apr 25, 2025 at 11:50 AM.
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Old Apr 25, 2025 | 12:09 PM
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Cheap garbage from Amazon - RICOKEY OBD2 Bluetooth scanner connected to free app - Car Scanner ELM OBD2.

Ok I'll stop clearing codes, though it seems like the system didn't register any, so I wasn't clearing much to begin with.

Also I do not have "check engine" light on all the time.

I only noticed it briefly when the car was stalling during an RPM drop. However, for the past two days, the car hasn't stalled at all.

EDIT:

I've found on Amazon Sale for half Price
MOTOPOWER MP69033 OBD2 Scanner
This one seems legit.

I will return the garbage one and will get this one.
 

Last edited by United Kingdom; Apr 25, 2025 at 12:20 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2025 | 01:09 PM
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Sorry but it is a GOLDEN RULE of mine based on failed and long attempts to help both my customers as well forum members... NOT TO USE BLUE TOOTH SCANNERS

They are a PIA and either post to much info way over the head of a DIY or the incorrect or important area's of the ECU..
I know some members live by these but really a inexpensive hand help and cable plug in to the OBDII Diagnostic Connector is a better DIY as well for a trained mechanic or Auto Tech over a blue tooth one.
I actually carry with me at all times and even at the shop to do a quick assessment of a customer's issue CenTech Scanner.
My other scanner (Snap-on Solus +) I have close to 4 grand invested in it so that only comes out when absolutely needed.

There are other brands that are simple and reliable and also NO ABS.... that's another subject but I don't think a DIY should be attempting to service ABS systems. LOL






 
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Old Apr 25, 2025 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by United Kingdom
Ok I'll stop clearing codes, though it seems like the system didn't register any, so I wasn't clearing much to begin with.
Some scanners will automatically re-set your I/M monitors when you clear DTCs which is unfortunate because reading them before they are reset is valuable information.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2025 | 01:03 PM
  #16  
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Hi,I’ve tried reading the codes with a couple of different scanners – a MOTOPOWER one from Amazon and a more expensive scanner I borrowed from a friend who works at a workshop (it was a TEXA device). My car isn’t showing any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).

I addressed the hole in the exhaust near the muffler, and since then, the car hasn't stalled. However, I’m still experiencing intermittent "jerking" when driving. This only occurs when the engine RPMs are between 2,000 and 3,000. When I press the accelerator all the way down, it feels like something is holding the car back. Sometimes this lasts for just a split second, other times for a few seconds. I don’t recall this happening when I’m driving slowly or cruising, only when I try to accelerate quickly.

I noticed something while inspecting the spark plugs that I’ll be addressing this weekend. There was a lot of oil on the threads, likely due to a rocker cover gasket leak. I’ll be fixing that over the weekend. However, would spark plugs covered in oil or a damaged ignition coil still not trigger any DTC codes?


 
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Old Apr 29, 2025 | 01:23 PM
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OK

so this is where you need to look.

active or just normal DTC. You did this and showed none?
Now you need to look at the permanent DTC with your issues there should be some or at least 1.
Then go see your I/M monitors. With your reported issues you should have 1 or more in fault or not ready. Which means your emissions system are not complaint as per their designed operating perimeters.

If after this, you are not getting any DTCs then let's do a test to see if the ECU is communicating and receiving somewhat correct information.
FORCE a DTC.
Its easy.

Pull the spark plug lead off one of your spark plugs. 1,2,3 or 4. Whichever you pull should activate your check engine light and will show that DTC as the effected dead cylinder. i.e. if you pull No. 1 cylinder that the DTC will be PO301

If you don't get this then you have either an ECU that is failing, the connector is corrupt to the DTC or the DTC harness is damaged. say like a rodent that cleaned his teeth on the wires. lol
 
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Old May 9, 2025 | 03:39 PM
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You are correct sir. I've been driving for a week, and I still have INC on my Oxygen Sens Mon and Oxygen Sens Heat, and also on Catalyst Mon. I think after driving for that long those sensors should finish testing ? Rest I/M Monitors shows either OK or N/A. Still no DTC faults. Tomorrow I will try to unplug the coil, but the scanner seems to read all data through the OBD port ok.
 
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