Hello fellow Mazda lovers. I have an issue with my Mazda 6 it's a 2005 Mazda 6 Isport 4cyl. Right now the cars runs great but I'm havering a power problem. I gave it a tune up to see if that was the cause but it wasn't. I can drive down the road and when I kick the a/c on I lose a good amount of power and then my car has problems shifting. Sometimes it will high rev before shifting into gear and other time sit wont shift up or down with out having to do it manually. The moment I turn off my a/c it goes back to normal and work great. I'm getting frustrated with this issue because I lose a lot of my gas mileage when this problem happens. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank for your time.

 

Is your AC cold as it should be?

The AC should cycle on and off according to the temperature. In addition the AC will be turned off when you accelerate hard.

My thinking is that your AC needs service. Maybe the charge is low, maybe the AC clutch is failing. In my opinion that is something for a shop with AC service equipment.

DIY AC charging has its downsides: If you should decide to add the refrigerant yourself, please read all the cautions to be observed when doing that. Safety goggles are a must, and purging the lines when adding refrigerant is another step so moisture doesn't get introduced into the system.
If moisture does get introduced, you could open the door for a whole new set of problems. As the expression goes, "Do your homework !"

 

The a/c is freezing cold which is great and I can hear the clutch in the a/c turn on and off like it should

 

Has anything been done to the system? Sounds like the compressor is working more than it should, that said it is usually low freon.

 

I have a 2006 V6 and my power sucks with a/c on as well. I try to only use a/c when necessary. When i find myself in a situation where i need power i shut off a/c. OR you could try flooring it, i believe when you floor it the a/c stops working.

 

Ok so an update... I just went out to test my a/c freon... What I got was when I plugged it in it was 35 in the blue which is filled... Then the a/c clutch kicked off and it went to 45 then right when it hit that mark the clutch kicked on dropping it to 25 and then gradually going back up to 35 where it satays until the clutch turns off

 

Maybe the compressor is slowly seizing? The actual pump doesn't turn/run unless the clutch engages and locks the pulley to the pump.

 

Gerlyne: I am following a similar thread on a Ford Forum. What I learned there is this: the simple meter that comes on the DIY cans of refrigerant is not nearly good enough to make conclusions about the compressor. You would need to make pressure readings on both the low side and the high pressure side of the system and take in consideration the ambient conditions.
I would not be surprised if grim_reaper hit the bulls eye again. Taking those measurement could confirm it.

 

I don't know how to take measurements on those so I am going to try and find a mechanic that can do it for a low cost or free and I will be back with my results and let you all know. Thank you all for your help and information. I really appreciate it.

 

Ok so I haven't taken my car to the shop yet but I hooked my car up to my OBDII scanner OBDwiz or scantool.net. I don't know if I was retarded or not but I reset/cleared my ECU. Now my car has improved just a little bit but came into another problem. When I press the lock button on my fob twice my car will not arm now. Don't hear the horn or see my lights flash. It's ok if you call me retarded haha. So what did I break or do wrong and how can I fix it