Quick synopsis - 1st oil change drained 5.5 qts. The next day I burned almost 1 qt of oil in 350 miles of highway driving, or enough to make the oil light come on when accelerating.
2021 Mazda6 grand touring, 2.5 turbo. I bought the car new in march 2022, I think there were about 30 miles on the odometer. No shop or dealership has touched this car since I drove it off the lot. First oil change was yesterday, June 1, 50xx miles, in my driveway. I was immediately concerned when the car drained out 5.5 quarts of oil into my catch pan. The owners manual says 5.1 is the magic number. Maybe someone was a bit sloppy when they topped it off at the factory? Maybe they mixed up their quarts and liters?. I added exactly 5 quarts, and it was just under the full mark on the dipstick - lets say 7/8ths for arguments sake (measured after driving around and then letting it settle, of course). This morning I took it on a very long business trip. After about 350 miles of driving, the low oil light popped on. I was accelerating from an intersection, slightly uphill (maybe 2% grade), not very brisk acceleration. My driving today was about 95% open highway averaging about 75mph with 3-4 short stops for food/restroom, and 2 stops for business that were about 2 hours each.
When the oil light went on, after I almost crapped my pants, I drove carefully to a nearby auto parts store (0.2 miles away, thanks googlemaps for saving the day), and added half a quart. Why only half a quart? Before I added, I checked the level so see how bad it was, and it was just on the bottom circle. Sure enough, it brought it up to midway.
Valve seals have been whispered as the likely culprit in the tsb of the other thread. I can think of a few possibilities for the extra volume of oil that was drained from my crank case and the subsequent oil loss - 1)Someone is overfilling these cars between the factory and my doorstep, causing blown valve seals and oil burn. 2)Maybe the crankcase isn't ventilating properly and the oil is full of combustion byproducts, artificially raising the oil level and causing blown valve seals and then oil consumption, 3) maybe there are some oil cavities in these turbo engines that sometimes drain, and sometimes dont - they get air pockets, the air pockets come and go, the oil level goes up and down, and it's not burning any oil at all - just hiding it sometimes. Mazda's guess is hopefully better than mine...
disclaimers - Prior to my oil change, I had not taken a "scientific" oil reading, I only pulled the dipstick when I added some washer fluid at about 2500 miles - it was well coated in half used, nice looking oil, and I thought nothing further of it. I've saved the oil and filter that was drained btw - I know it's silly - but you never know - mazda may want it. I drive normally with the flow of traffic, don't race, and try to conserve fuel whenever I can by driving gently. Also, my VIN falls outside the listed vins in the TSB for Mazda6....I will call mazda tomorrow or monday. I have another 300 miles tomorrow and will report back here.

 

Followup post - Car hasn't "burned" any oil since then. Burned in quotes because who knows if it ever did - Heres why: Oil level hasn't budged since the above incident. At the 10k mile oil change, it drained out exactly 5.5 quarts, with the dipstick measuring at halfway between the dots pre-drain. When I filled it up with oil, I put in 5.75 quarts, and it was just below the top dot. Been checking it every 500 mi or so, and currently at 12,750 miles. No oil missing. The real question now is, whey is it that everywhere you look, it says it takes 5.1 quarts. Anyone?

 

Is the 5.1q with or without oil filter? Don't take the manual as bible. I've seen many Mazda's take more or less than the official Mazda spec.

 

First you are waaaaaay to hyper critical about the oil level and what you put in and what was removed in your responses.
Based on the information your first order of business should be to use a diagnostic scanning tool (NOT A BLUE TOOTH DEVICE) connected directly to your OBDII connector and check for any active DTCs or pending ones.
I will state that you can run almost 1/2 qt above the full line and the worst thing to happen is cause you MPG to be reduced. I wouldn't necessarily recommend doing that but nevertheless with the balance shaft assembly there is a little temporary over oil fill safe period.

The next thing and for all reading this..... the OIL CAPASITY is from a completely dry engine. Not sure why some auto manufacture does that because it more than often confuses DIY owners as well some shops that do oil and oil filter services?
You should always always always re-fill your oil when and oil and filter service is done less a 1/2-3/4 quart and start your oil level checking.

**The next BIG misconception is how to read the dip stick.
The low line is minimum the upper line is full. ANYWHER in-between those 2 lines is operational correct! Old school has beat into our head that if you don't get it on the full or upper line you are going to be low on oil! NOT SO!

If after an oil change and filter service, you start the engine and get a RED engine light STOP and TURN OFF the ENGINE. This means you did some step incorrectly/ You may even need to re dure the complete oil filter and oil drain again. Inspection or tossing the oil filter for another. If you do this and restart the engine and get the RED engine or oil light then then next step is to check to oil pressure sensor. It may have been damaged during your service or just went bad. You will now need to remove the sensor and use a manual oil pressure testing gauge. You can check the continuity of the sensors as well the continuity of the oil sender connector wire.
Sorry but some of your posted information is very suspect and makes no logical sense because they were not inconsistent events and descriptions So I would say at this point if you were still getting any RED dash indicator lights not to run the engine or drive it and have it towed to MAZDA ASAP..

**I would also search this forum and find the proper ways to change the fluids and also how to properly read a dip stick on your MAZDA.

As always I am sure everything will work out if you go to MAZDA...

ASE

 

Ok so I have no idea why this popped up on my to watch list. Sorry about responding to such an old thread. Sometimes I "blaze" along on Mondays on several forums and first help or respond on threads I have already posted on or a watch list.

However the information is still functional and supportive! for other reading it