A few weeks ago i checked my oil and there wasn't any oil on the dipstick. I put the dipstick in and pulled it out a few times and there was still no oil. I put oil in immediately. I've been checking the oil quite frequently to see if the level went down but it has stayed the saem. There is no oil on the ground so i know it's not leaking. My concern is, why didn't my oil light come on?

 

The light comes on w/a lack of pressure, Lev, not a low level.Old Oldsmobiles (and perhaps others) tried an oil level gauge. It never worked very well, so they gave up on the idea.

And w/my heavy right foot, mine uses a little bit of oil too. About 1/2qt every 3K miles, and I'm running synthestic oil which tends to find all the little holes in the piston rings. I wouldn't be too concerned about it unless it becomes a lot of oil usage, just keep checking the dipstick.

 

Could it be that the recommended oil 5w20 is too thin in summer time? just a guess.

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It's possible, but I have also been known to run 5w-30 synth in this car.
I'll have to check out that possibility more closely.

 

I looked in the manual and it said the light was for oil pressure, but i still thought it would come on if the level was low. I've been checking it and it's been staying at the same level so i know everything is ok. thanks for the info.

 

if its not leaking, you're burning it - which i'd say is strange because my car has over 40k miles and I never have to add any oil whatsoever. check the tailpipe for excessive soot and smell the exhaust. also, when you start up the car, look behind you to see if blue-gray smoke shoots out.

the only car I had to add oil to was my oil chugging jetta with over 100k on it. these mazda engines are pretty tight - unless you beat the **** out of it on a daily basis.

i'm also going to assume that you know to check your oil on a level surface after your car has been sitting for atleast 15 minutes...i like to wait longer myself.

 

Define, "beat the **** out of it on a daily basis."
I driver mine spiritedly, as the saying goes, but don't always have the opportunity to beat the **** out of it. It's a spirited car, it should be driven that way if you're of a mind to.

Lev, the oil level would have to get very low for the car to lose oil pressure. But that's not to say that oil can't be overheated when there isn't enough available for the crankcase. Remember that the oil helps keep parts cool too, not just lubricate them. If a little oil is asked to do a lot of work... well, it's overworked and will begin to break down.

 

lol just by seeing what you post on the forum, im pretty sure you know what you're doing when it comes to maintenece and running your car. im talkin about the people who start their car up cold, do a reverse burnout out of their garage, swing it into the street, neutral bomb it into drive and peal out (you know...completely excessive driving habits on a daily basis) . i feel sorry for most used cars and honestly, after watching vids of mazda 3's on youtube being dyno'ed and tacked out in every gear...i dont trust anyones 3 but my own (im sure you feel the same way = ) )

Oh and i have ZERO experience with synthetic oil - i dont know if you have to add it or what not. i was talking from one conventional oil guy to another...(i think)

 

I wasn't really offended Mike, just playing along.

And no, I almost ALWAYS wait till the car has had water temp for a while (several miles) and assumeit also has oil temp by then (still no oil tempgauge)to beat the sh*t out of it. I learned about that a long time ago.

No, actually I've been a synthetic guy since the old days of Mobil1, not that I completely trust that brand now. I used to run it in my '80 Honda... converted from conventional at about 110k miles, tracked it and DD'd it to 190k (when it rusted out from under me and wouldn't pass inspection any more.) [:-] I LOVED that car. The engine was as healthy as when I bought it w/over 60k on it, and the head never came off. Frankly, I was afraid of the then CVCC system (three valve) they had then and what I'd find. Too many expensive, special tools required to work on it. Besides, it ran just fine and used no more oil when I sold it for scrap thanthe dayI bought it.

 

I don't know what you can do except put the proper amount of oil in, and monitor the level. Maybe the wrong amount was put in at the last change? I have used 5w30 for every change, performance and MPG have been fine with this weight, no oil usage at all.

I agree with Virgin thatMazda 3 engines like to be driven "spirited." Once the temp gauge indicates its warmed up, nothing wrong with running the RPMs up to the mid/upper 3000s when accelerating.