How I set Timing on MZR 2.3L
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Joined: Dec 2013
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How I set Timing on MZR 2.3L
COULDN'T FIND ANY DETAILED WRITE-UPS SO HERE IS MINE
I am doing a head gasket on my 2004 Mazda 6 w/ 2.3L
I have got all the timing tools I need. Made them myself for under $10 at lowes and use micrometer to make sure all tolerances are same as SST's
When doing a head gasket on this engine the cam gears and the crank are all held in time with Friction washers not any key-ways.
Anytime you pull the crank pulley loose you should replace the crank pulley bolt and the 3 Friction washers that follow.
The order is this:
Crank pulley Bolt---Crank pulley---Friction washer---Timing chain gear---Friction washer---Oilpump gear---Friction washer---Crank
When doing the timing on this engine it is key that you take your time and do one thing at a time to make sure it is perfect. I installed SST into hole in back of block to set crank at TDC then proceeded to lock the cams in place with my tool. I loosened the intake cam enough to let it spin without moving cam. placed first friction washer in place on crank then oil pump and chain followed by friction washer and timing gear. with chain tensioner not deployed i placed on the timing chain. at this point all sst's were still installed. I placed on the last friction washer and tightened pulley on by hand just enough to keep gears from sliding forward and released the tensioner. remember to have intake gear and crank gear loose when doing this. this allows the two gears to still move freely by the pressure of the tensioner and remove all the slack in the timing chain from between intake and exhaust cams and the intake cam and crank. then place box wrench on take cam and tighten cam bolt. I left timing tool in place cause i put all pressure onto the wrench that was on the middle of cam that way i knew the timing was still correct. then I removed crank pulley installed timing cover and reinstalled crank pully with a new crank pulley bolt but make sure the crank is still hitting the sst and that you put one of the timing cover bolts in the hole in the crank pulley and the timing cover.That makes sure that your crank positin sensor is reading exactly what the true position of your crank is. I used a 500ft/lb impact to reinstall the crank bolt and I feel that is more then enough and that also allowed me to keep the sst in all places and ensure my timing was perfect.
Others may have done it differently or feel that my way is stupid but i can assure you... It worked for me otherwise I wouldn't share it with you. There are no write ups anywhere for this job it seems and so good luck!
I do not condone to any work or damage you do to your or someone elses vehicle this is simply how I did to use as a reference.
I am doing a head gasket on my 2004 Mazda 6 w/ 2.3L
I have got all the timing tools I need. Made them myself for under $10 at lowes and use micrometer to make sure all tolerances are same as SST's
When doing a head gasket on this engine the cam gears and the crank are all held in time with Friction washers not any key-ways.
Anytime you pull the crank pulley loose you should replace the crank pulley bolt and the 3 Friction washers that follow.
The order is this:
Crank pulley Bolt---Crank pulley---Friction washer---Timing chain gear---Friction washer---Oilpump gear---Friction washer---Crank
When doing the timing on this engine it is key that you take your time and do one thing at a time to make sure it is perfect. I installed SST into hole in back of block to set crank at TDC then proceeded to lock the cams in place with my tool. I loosened the intake cam enough to let it spin without moving cam. placed first friction washer in place on crank then oil pump and chain followed by friction washer and timing gear. with chain tensioner not deployed i placed on the timing chain. at this point all sst's were still installed. I placed on the last friction washer and tightened pulley on by hand just enough to keep gears from sliding forward and released the tensioner. remember to have intake gear and crank gear loose when doing this. this allows the two gears to still move freely by the pressure of the tensioner and remove all the slack in the timing chain from between intake and exhaust cams and the intake cam and crank. then place box wrench on take cam and tighten cam bolt. I left timing tool in place cause i put all pressure onto the wrench that was on the middle of cam that way i knew the timing was still correct. then I removed crank pulley installed timing cover and reinstalled crank pully with a new crank pulley bolt but make sure the crank is still hitting the sst and that you put one of the timing cover bolts in the hole in the crank pulley and the timing cover.That makes sure that your crank positin sensor is reading exactly what the true position of your crank is. I used a 500ft/lb impact to reinstall the crank bolt and I feel that is more then enough and that also allowed me to keep the sst in all places and ensure my timing was perfect.
Others may have done it differently or feel that my way is stupid but i can assure you... It worked for me otherwise I wouldn't share it with you. There are no write ups anywhere for this job it seems and so good luck!
I do not condone to any work or damage you do to your or someone elses vehicle this is simply how I did to use as a reference.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 1
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From: New Hampshire
Nice post
Thanks very much for your concise yet complete work description. It's amazing the amount of my time other people wasted in videos etc. That usually say little or nothing.
This post combined with a 10 minute video from China (video was nothing but wrench twisting- no description, no pauses... Dude knew what he was doing and filmed it) are more than the equivalent of 10 hours of everything else about how to do timing on 2.3l Ford/Mazda
bookmarked
This post combined with a 10 minute video from China (video was nothing but wrench twisting- no description, no pauses... Dude knew what he was doing and filmed it) are more than the equivalent of 10 hours of everything else about how to do timing on 2.3l Ford/Mazda
bookmarked
COULDN'T FIND ANY DETAILED WRITE-UPS SO HERE IS MINE
I am doing a head gasket on my 2004 Mazda 6 w/ 2.3L
I have got all the timing tools I need. Made them myself for under $10 at lowes and use micrometer to make sure all tolerances are same as SST's
When doing a head gasket on this engine the cam gears and the crank are all held in time with Friction washers not any key-ways.
Anytime you pull the crank pulley loose you should replace the crank pulley bolt and the 3 Friction washers that follow.
The order is this:
Crank pulley Bolt---Crank pulley---Friction washer---Timing chain gear---Friction washer---Oilpump gear---Friction washer---Crank
When doing the timing on this engine it is key that you take your time and do one thing at a time to make sure it is perfect. I installed SST into hole in back of block to set crank at TDC then proceeded to lock the cams in place with my tool. I loosened the intake cam enough to let it spin without moving cam. placed first friction washer in place on crank then oil pump and chain followed by friction washer and timing gear. with chain tensioner not deployed i placed on the timing chain. at this point all sst's were still installed. I placed on the last friction washer and tightened pulley on by hand just enough to keep gears from sliding forward and released the tensioner. remember to have intake gear and crank gear loose when doing this. this allows the two gears to still move freely by the pressure of the tensioner and remove all the slack in the timing chain from between intake and exhaust cams and the intake cam and crank. then place box wrench on take cam and tighten cam bolt. I left timing tool in place cause i put all pressure onto the wrench that was on the middle of cam that way i knew the timing was still correct. then I removed crank pulley installed timing cover and reinstalled crank pully with a new crank pulley bolt but make sure the crank is still hitting the sst and that you put one of the timing cover bolts in the hole in the crank pulley and the timing cover.That makes sure that your crank positin sensor is reading exactly what the true position of your crank is. I used a 500ft/lb impact to reinstall the crank bolt and I feel that is more then enough and that also allowed me to keep the sst in all places and ensure my timing was perfect.
Others may have done it differently or feel that my way is stupid but i can assure you... It worked for me otherwise I wouldn't share it with you. There are no write ups anywhere for this job it seems and so good luck!
I do not condone to any work or damage you do to your or someone elses vehicle this is simply how I did to use as a reference.
I am doing a head gasket on my 2004 Mazda 6 w/ 2.3L
I have got all the timing tools I need. Made them myself for under $10 at lowes and use micrometer to make sure all tolerances are same as SST's
When doing a head gasket on this engine the cam gears and the crank are all held in time with Friction washers not any key-ways.
Anytime you pull the crank pulley loose you should replace the crank pulley bolt and the 3 Friction washers that follow.
The order is this:
Crank pulley Bolt---Crank pulley---Friction washer---Timing chain gear---Friction washer---Oilpump gear---Friction washer---Crank
When doing the timing on this engine it is key that you take your time and do one thing at a time to make sure it is perfect. I installed SST into hole in back of block to set crank at TDC then proceeded to lock the cams in place with my tool. I loosened the intake cam enough to let it spin without moving cam. placed first friction washer in place on crank then oil pump and chain followed by friction washer and timing gear. with chain tensioner not deployed i placed on the timing chain. at this point all sst's were still installed. I placed on the last friction washer and tightened pulley on by hand just enough to keep gears from sliding forward and released the tensioner. remember to have intake gear and crank gear loose when doing this. this allows the two gears to still move freely by the pressure of the tensioner and remove all the slack in the timing chain from between intake and exhaust cams and the intake cam and crank. then place box wrench on take cam and tighten cam bolt. I left timing tool in place cause i put all pressure onto the wrench that was on the middle of cam that way i knew the timing was still correct. then I removed crank pulley installed timing cover and reinstalled crank pully with a new crank pulley bolt but make sure the crank is still hitting the sst and that you put one of the timing cover bolts in the hole in the crank pulley and the timing cover.That makes sure that your crank positin sensor is reading exactly what the true position of your crank is. I used a 500ft/lb impact to reinstall the crank bolt and I feel that is more then enough and that also allowed me to keep the sst in all places and ensure my timing was perfect.
Others may have done it differently or feel that my way is stupid but i can assure you... It worked for me otherwise I wouldn't share it with you. There are no write ups anywhere for this job it seems and so good luck!
I do not condone to any work or damage you do to your or someone elses vehicle this is simply how I did to use as a reference.
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