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2.3L MZR Timing Issues/Questions

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  #1  
Old 12-28-2013, 01:43 PM
dustincayton4895's Avatar
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Default 2.3L MZR Timing Issues/Questions

I am currently in process of doing a head gasket on my 2.3L

I have all the necessary SST's for this job but my only concern is obviously doing it the correct way and only doing it once.

I've been researching and researching and reading my Hayne's and Chilton's and they answer a lot but leave a lot out as well.

I know I need new crank bolt and the 3 friction washers, New CPS (seeing that mine is cracked), New head bolts and Head gasket.

My question is what is the actual in detail process for correctly timing this engine properly?

I've read to:
-set cams at TDC with sst making sure lobes on cylinder one are facing up at each other
-set crank at TDC with sst bolt in the blind hole
- loosely place all sprockets on designated areas with bolts installed loosely
????? Do I NEED to replace cam washers or can I reuse them or can i only break loose one of the cams instead of one?
-then install chain with tensioner not applied, get slack out between cam gears and between intake cam and crank
-release tensioner then tighten cam gears
-verify cams still at TDC and Crank at TDC and place timing cover on with new seal
-install crank pulley using 6mm bolt to ensure correct timing of CPS.

If someone has anymore details please explain or if there is any parts i need to replace or need not to replace let me know as well! Thanks for reading!!!
 
  #2  
Old 12-28-2013, 09:27 PM
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Ok so there is a plate that sits in the grooves on the back side of the cams and will set them on time. The sst pin goes in the side of the block and sets the crank at tdc. Loosen only one cam gear. No point on doing two. You can reuse the diamond washers on the cam gears(they rec. replacing but will not cause any problems). Replace the diamond washers on crank. Do not tighten cam gear with the plate locking them in time, it will break the camshaft. Install chain and guides and tensioner. Once installed pull out the pin that locks the tensioner and that will tighten the chain and it will b timed. Hold the camshaft with a wrench and pull the timing plate from rear of cams and tighten the cam gear. When you put the crank sensor on don't tighten it till you have put the crank pulley(pulley doesn't have to be tightened yet, but can b). The 6mm bolt installed in pulley to cover is just for lining up the crank sensor do not tighten the the pulley with this bolt in or it will crack the front cover. Move the crank sensor till it is even with the mark on the pulley and tighten sensor down. Pull the sst pin from block and install plug. Ensure the crank pulley is tight. Install valve cover, spark plugs, coils etc. change oil filter full with oil and coolant.
 
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Old 12-29-2013, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by racer662009
Ok so there is a plate that sits in the grooves on the back side of the cams and will set them on time. The sst pin goes in the side of the block and sets the crank at tdc. Loosen only one cam gear. No point on doing two. You can reuse the diamond washers on the cam gears(they rec. replacing but will not cause any problems). Replace the diamond washers on crank. Do not tighten cam gear with the plate locking them in time, it will break the camshaft. Install chain and guides and tensioner. Once installed pull out the pin that locks the tensioner and that will tighten the chain and it will b timed. Hold the camshaft with a wrench and pull the timing plate from rear of cams and tighten the cam gear. When you put the crank sensor on don't tighten it till you have put the crank pulley(pulley doesn't have to be tightened yet, but can b). The 6mm bolt installed in pulley to cover is just for lining up the crank sensor do not tighten the the pulley with this bolt in or it will crack the front cover. Move the crank sensor till it is even with the mark on the pulley and tighten sensor down. Pull the sst pin from block and install plug. Ensure the crank pulley is tight. Install valve cover, spark plugs, coils etc. change oil filter full with oil and coolant.
Which cam do you suggest breaking loose? Kind of want to stay away from breaking loose the intake cam.
 
  #4  
Old 12-30-2013, 05:44 AM
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Workshop manual says exhaust cam.
 
  #5  
Old 12-31-2013, 02:34 AM
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Doesn't really matter which cam u leave loose. VVT is on the intake and regular gear on the exhaust. I've always done the VVT because on most cases of me tearing them apart I've had to replace the VVT gear.
 
  #6  
Old 12-31-2013, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by racer662009
Doesn't really matter which cam u leave loose. VVT is on the intake and regular gear on the exhaust. I've always done the VVT because on most cases of me tearing them apart I've had to replace the VVT gear.
If I break loose the vvt cam gear... do I need to mark how it is in reference to the cam and put it back like I took off or can I break it loose pull slack out between gears and retighten. What do you do for this step. What tools etc
 
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