Drained the trans pan and went to remove it today to change the filter and found I can't access half the bolts due to it being so close to the frame rail. WTF?

Seems like a **** design. Is this a sign the trans/engine mount is bad? (Can't see it, i think its under the air box.) Or are you supposed to have to disconnect the engine mounts and jack the engine/transaxle up a few inches just to be able to drop the trans pan? I watched a YouTube video of dropping the pan on a 2.3L and he could get to all the pan bolts with a 1/4" drive extension and universal joint. There is not enough room on mine for that... my pinky finger would not fit into the available gap... the fluid that came out of the trans was black and past due for a change so I still want to drop the pan and do the filter along with another fill/drain or two. (Only 3.25 qts came out).

side note, how do I know if the engine mounts are bad?

2010 6i 2.5L 5 speed auto. FS5A-EL transmission. 113k miles...

 

Drop the rear engine mount, gently jack up the transmission, will give you just enough room to get to the bolts.

 

OK. Thank you. Is the tranny mount under the airbox? No need to loosen it? I had been thinking of replacing the mounts anyway...

 

Transmission mount is somewhere under the airbox. No need to loosen it.

 

Thank you.

 

I must say this was a PITA. After removing two bolts on lower engine mount i jacked up the motor but found there still really wasn't enough room to get to all the trans pan bolts. And lifting the motor it showed me tears in the rubber of the upper trans mount so i had to pull the battery & tray, air intake, etc. so i could replace that mount... which i found at a parts store about 30 min away. I still had to pull the left wheel and remove the inside shroud to be able to get the pan bolts out. And whomever did it last time didnt use a gasket, only RTV silicone so it took a bunch of time to clean all the old silicone off the pan and the tranny. Probably spent 5-6 hours screwing with this trans filter change when it should have been a 1 hour job... Also found the endlink rubber was shot as well as the tie rod ball joint seals so i ordered new outer tie rods and end links to do when i pull the CV axles... Also received the quick strut cartridges to put in and new shocks for the rear. Hopefully these will be easy to replace tomorrow.

So that was second drain and fill of the trans and it seems to be shifting smoothly. Still pretty black on this drain. Still have one more gallon of trans fluid so will do another drain/fill tomorrow too. Using the Castrol transmax import multivehicle as the webspage says its compatible with the M5/Mazda M-V fluid (and dont use Mercon V or LV fluid in this trans which was my first error).

 

The use or none use of a transmission gasket for shops and DIY is there personal choice. many Transmission because they are considered lifetime no service required DO NOT use a gasket only RTV.

In your case I would have considered installing a drain plug valve or even a combination of that and remotely mounting the valve.

Because you are getting a dark color does not necessarily mean a problem The only way to be sure is invest 30 bucks and have a *sample check.See my thread post# 91 and post # 98. The test was so accurate it showed the miniscule amountwater moisture from the tube I use to extract a sample from the dip stick area.
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...-44018/page10/

* https://www.blackstone-labs.com/engi.../transmission/*Automatic transmissions ask a lot of the oil. Not only does the oil lubricate and clean internal parts, but it also functions as a hydraulic oil to operate various components.

Transmission oil can be contaminated with metals, solids, and moisture, and those contaminants need to be removed before they cause problems. Conversely, a test of your transmission fluid may reveal that it’s still in great condition, and you don’t need to change it as often as you thought.There’s no easier way of knowing what’s going on in the system than oil analysis. We can tell you if the oil needs to be changed, if it’s contaminated, or if there are any problems at hand. Request your free kit today and make sure your drive train is wearing as it should!

 

Thanks Callisto. Yes i am familiar with Blackstone and used to run analysis on my BMW motorcycle (R1100RT) which has 6k mile oil intervals on a boxer twin and the forums were crazy about have to change your oil on time due to hot running engine. Mobil1 synthetic only. I let it run to 11k miles once (used to ride about 20k-25k miles a year; would do regular 2k mile weekend road trips and daily commute) and analysis showed oil had like 80% life left so I stopped worrying about it... 6k, 7k, 8k, whenever it was convenient. Suggest you have a baseline of new oil run so you have something to compare it to...

Got this car for my kid with 113k miles. Car fax had shown regular maintenance but people often skip trans and sample was so dark looked like it had never been changed. No tinge of red at all. My research has since shown the Mazda M-V trans fluid turns dark quickly 20-30k miles. This trans has 60k fluid change interval so probably time anyway if changed at 60k mi. Only 3.25 qts drain out of 10 (~4qts with pan drop) so I do multiple drain fills with some driving between.

Just doing my PMCS to make sure it is fully reliable. Lots of PM/repairs at 113k miles. Figure he can drive it through college (freshman) and then pass to my daughter that is 4 years behind.

Like your post. Agree with lower temp thermostat and coolant ratio, but leave in for the winter unless you are in North US? San Diego never gets to freezing (seen frost on ground twice in 23 yeras). Been there, done that, getting old now (53 today in fact). Not so into spending on cosmetics/thumping stereo now, just performance. Got quickjacks too. Love them. Started in lowered minitrucks in the 80s when I was Army Scout. Now have wife and kids and I like my comfort as long as its fast . Had a 2001 Saab Viggen with a tune, Koni yellows, sways, race springs, blow off valve and learned to love turbos. Then went to BMW. Started with low miles used. Always buy low miles used now... BMW don't hold their value so you can get 3 year old CPO car w/20-30k miles for 50-55% of sticker if you shop (not an M though). E46 330i, E90 335i twin turbo stage 1, F10 535i turbo with stage 1, now a F10 550i twin turbo V8 with JB stage 1, Bilstein coilovers, Stoptech BBK in front, H&R sways, and 255/35-20 square setup. Pushing ~500HP. Hard to do more in Commiefornia with smog checks/inspection. (At least getting old I have more disposable income). My dragy has recorded 4.65s 0-60 and 12.77s 1/4 mile which is decent for such a boat of a car... but it corners great and is a nice ride. (My wife bitches it is too stiff now lol, but runs like a raped ape...). As much as you like cars suggest looking at a used BMW. As long as you can wrench them yourself they are OK and much better driving experience (I hate FWD). BMW forums are full of enthusiasts and lots of DIY write ups. Do your reseach as some models are better than others for fixing up (not a lot of stuff for 5 series Dad cars). You would fit right in. .

One last thing, suggest you try a ceramic coating on your wheels. I did my wheels (matte black though) with 2 coats before installing them. Amazing how the brake dust/grime just wipes off... BMWs are known for black brake dust (why I went to black wheels) so the coating is a real boon.

Luky

 

Good stuff. You are a true car enthusiast!
Oh .... I once worked short time as manager Super Shops San Diego !

I live at the bottom of the Sierra Mountains in Lincoln

you might check this thread
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/off...-living-44406/