::Airbox Mod::
#11
RE: ::Airbox Mod::
i would take those off your hands but my plans are to roll with some 5zigen 18inch rims so the lowering kit kinda is out of the question. now i just need to scavenger up some money to buy these wheels i want.
#12
RE: ::Airbox Mod::
Well go roll your fenders then get the springs Well anyway I put em on ebay and hopefully someone will buy them. I need some cash so I can buy either cp-e intake or magnaflows, or decide to pay some money to my parents for my car.[:'(]
#13
RE: ::Airbox Mod::
alot of people tend to like the MFs... i do like them, but the injen exhaust sounds alot more appealing to me. despite the price of the injen, i would still buy it anyway... well, once i get teh money haha. i know what you mean on car payments, i got that crappa too!
#14
RE: ::Airbox Mod::
ORIGINAL: babyhuey
You probably just need to reinitialize the auto function RJB_M6. Easy to do yourself.
Start with the key in run position. Run the drivers window down so it is open about 3-4 inches. Now run the window up but when it reaches closed position keep holding the switch for 3 seconds then release. Repeat this same thing over at the passenger front door using its own switch and not the main switch. If rear doors are also AUTO then do the same procedure with passenger rear and then drivers rear in that order. Auto function should now be working normal.
You probably just need to reinitialize the auto function RJB_M6. Easy to do yourself.
Start with the key in run position. Run the drivers window down so it is open about 3-4 inches. Now run the window up but when it reaches closed position keep holding the switch for 3 seconds then release. Repeat this same thing over at the passenger front door using its own switch and not the main switch. If rear doors are also AUTO then do the same procedure with passenger rear and then drivers rear in that order. Auto function should now be working normal.
#15
I did the air box mod before. Gen 2. The proper way to do it is to:
1) remove the false bottom inside the air box. Fill the small holes up that get left behind from removing the bottom from where it attaches to at side, if you don't you will suck in hot air from the engine bay. Leave the tuba alone otherwise same issue with hot air. Leave flapper alone as it works fine, no gain.
2) Here's the big difference: drill 6 3/8" holes in the bottom of the resonator which is located down below, accessible from underneath. This will give you the cold air and more air you need!
3) Also change your air filter to a K&N!
1) remove the false bottom inside the air box. Fill the small holes up that get left behind from removing the bottom from where it attaches to at side, if you don't you will suck in hot air from the engine bay. Leave the tuba alone otherwise same issue with hot air. Leave flapper alone as it works fine, no gain.
2) Here's the big difference: drill 6 3/8" holes in the bottom of the resonator which is located down below, accessible from underneath. This will give you the cold air and more air you need!
3) Also change your air filter to a K&N!
Last edited by UseYourNoggin; 04-20-2014 at 12:16 PM.
#16
There is a theme so I do not want to open a new one.
Everyone wants airbox intake to sound powerful, louder and so on. Yesterday I found my Mazda 6 GG 2.0 89kw 2007 notice that the airbox suction tube on the airbox produces a deep tone. I would love to have no tone, to be silent. What can I do about that?
Everyone wants airbox intake to sound powerful, louder and so on. Yesterday I found my Mazda 6 GG 2.0 89kw 2007 notice that the airbox suction tube on the airbox produces a deep tone. I would love to have no tone, to be silent. What can I do about that?
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Wombat80
Mazda MX-3 and Mazda MX-6
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11-09-2009 02:50 AM