Hello all, this is my first post here. I just bought a Mazda3 S Touring about a week ago and I must say I absolutely love the car. This isn't my first Mazda though. I previously owned a Mazda i Sport 2004. I got rid of it because the previous owner didn't take good care of it and I was constantly dumping money into it, so I figured I'd rather dump money into something I know won't have random stuff go wrong at random times (had to replace transmission, starter, had to pay for removal of dog hair in the carpet, and was having MORE mechanical issues, so I decided to get rid of it). Anyway, now that I have something worth keeping, I wanted to do some aftermarket upgrades. Now I'm not trying to build a racing machine (I couldn't get a manual transmission, no where to be found apparently), but I do want to push it up to around 200hp and 190+ torque, just so I can beat the SIs and TSXs out there (not really). I'm thinking about getting a cold air intake (K&N or AEM), catback exhaust (Borla or Magnaflow, preferably Borla), headers, MAYBE the flywheel, and maybe an ECU performance chip if I'm really hurting for gains. However, none of the aforementioned vendors have anything listed that is compatible with my car, or 2012 models period. However, I've done some research and it seems parts for the 2010 and 2011 Mazda3 might be compatible with the 2012 model since the engine is basically the same. I wanted to see why you guys think.

 

Even if all of the items you're looking for were available I submit to you that your engine wouldn't get anywhere near the 200/190 numbers you're looking for. The only way to reach those numbers would be to add forced induction to your engine; unfortunately you have an automatic transmission and if you bump your engine to even 200 hp, your transmission will probably pack it in sooner than later.

 

I know the Mazda 6 automatic 6 speed Aisin Warner was rated at 325 ft lbs torque (max) and people had troubles with just stock (faulty valve bodies), however, upkeep is the key. Change fluid every 30,000 miles putting in a matching synthetic fluid and external transmission cooler will help a long way. That being said, you should check to see the specs in your transmission.
You also did not state your engine size and current stock HP and torque numbers so we can gauge on what to be expected for mods.
With a new engine/model it takes a couple years for aftermarket parts.

 

Well my car is all stock, so it's a MZR 2.5L. I haven't Dynoed it, but stock specs dictate that both torque and HP is at around 170 (167 hp @ 6000 rpm and 168 lb. of torque at 6000 rpm). I didn't think it would require forced induction to get to 200/190, since a CAI on the 2010-2011 Mazda 3 S (which is practically the same engine and size) pushes both up by 7 hp and I've seen people's reports of 15-25 hp gains on exhaust headers and catback.

 

Fifteen to twenty? Ain't never gonna happen. Seven? Not likely either. The thing is, immediately after the addition of a CAI may yield a few extra ponies right up at the edge of red line at wide open throttle, but there are typically two caveats:

1. After the ECU has had a few weeks to remap, the power gains come back down to virtually zero, and
2. there is typically a commensurate loss in mid-range torque.

There are many folks who swear by the hardware you're considering, but in the vast majority of cases, the gains are in their heads only. Long story short, if you want real gains, forced induction is your only real option. Then there's your automatic transmission to deal with...

 

Like always, I disagree with Shipo but don't totally agree with Ex. The 3.0 litre is a V6 and you have a 4 banger. You will not see 7 HP CAI, maybe 4-5.
The exhaust on the V6 was not very good after the pre-cats so gains were to be had there. On the 4 banger it is simpler. On a complete exhaust you may get 10. the 4-2-1-exhaust manifold (header) according to Mazda3 engineering chief Kenichiro Saruwatari, the difference, he says is more in the low and mid-range torque. If you can find or custom build a header in the configuration 4-2-1 you would Max your situation over rpm range.

 

Well, I'm not really too concerned with performance (or else I'd have pushed for a Mazdaspeed3), but I just wanted to see what I could do, and TBH, if I can squeeze 15 hp by doing a 4-2-1 exhaust setup and a CAI, I'd probably still do it since it's not that expensive compared to turbo. But this discussion raise an interesting point. Is an external tranny cooler a wise investment? Is there a particular brand that's good? Does it pass emissions? Is it hard to install? I'm still relatively new to becoming an enthusiast, so excuse my ignorance.

 

On most vehicles, the automatic transmission fluid is cooled by a small heat exchanger inside the bottom or end tank of the radiator. Hot ATF from the transmission circulates through a short loop of pipe and is thus "cooled." Cooling is a relative term here, however, because the radiator itself may be running at anywhere from 180 to 220 degrees F.!
Tests have shown that the typical original equipment oil cooler is marginal at best. ATF that enters the radiator cooler at 300 degrees F. leaves at 240 to 270 degrees F., which is only a 10 to 20% drop in temperature, and is nowhere good enough for extended fluid life.
An auxiliary transmission fluid cooler is easy to install and can substantially lower fluid operating temperatures. The plate/fin type cooler is somewhat more efficient than the tube and fin design, but either can lower fluid temperatures anywhere from 80 to 140 degrees when installed in series with the stock unit. Typical cooling efficiencies run in the 35 to 50% range.
As a rule of thumb, every 20 degree increase in operating temperature above 175 degrees F. cuts the life of the fluid in half!
At 195 degrees F., for instance, fluid life is reduced to 50,000 miles. At 220 degrees, which is commonly encountered in many transmissions, the fluid is only good for about 25,000 miles
FROM: How often should the automatic transmission fluid... — Yahoo! Autos

External Tranny cooler has nothing to do with emissions, but everything from extending the life of your tranny. I had mine installed at a shop, not that difficult---go to a tranny shop and ask.

http://www.motorweek.org/features/go...t_or_forget_it