I have a 2004 Mazda3 and the engine light with P0106 recently came on.

Some sites are saying that it is the MAF sensor but I tried cleaing this. Does anyone know the typical resistance values for the MAF sensor (this includes the IAT sensor that is include in the MAF sensor)? Does anyone have a procedure to test the MAF sensor?

Other sites say it could be the MAP sensor. Does anyone know where to find this MAP sensor?

Also I have the freeze fram data. Can anyone tell me what this information is saying?

Year: 2004
Manufacturer: Mazda Motor Corporation
Make: Mazda
Model: 3
Engine Type: L4, 2.0L
Tranmission: Automatic
Trim Level: i

=== Stored Error Code(s) ===
Error Code: P0106
Possible Causes:

=== Pending Error Code(s) ===
Error Code: P0106
Possible Causes:

Freeze Frame Information:
1. DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored - P0106.
2. Fuel System 1 Status - Open Loop - Due To Driving Conditions.
3. Fuel System 2 Status - Not Supported.
4. Calculated LOAD Value - 23.92 %.
5. Engine Coolant Temp - 201.20 °F.
6. Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 - -0.78 %.
7. Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 - -4.69 %.
8. Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure - 34.35 Inhg.
9. Engine RPM - 0.00 Rpm.
10. Vehicle Speed Sensor - 0.00 Mph.
11. Ignition Timing Advance #1 Cylinder - 3.50 °.
12. Intake Air Temperature - 71.60 °F.
13. Air Flow Rate Mass Air Flow Sensor - 0.04 Lb/Min.
14. Absolute Throttle Position - 12.16 %.
15. Time Since Engine Start - 640 Sec.

Monitor Information:
1. MIL - ON.
2. Misfire Monitoring - Complete.
3. Fuel System Monitoring - Complete.
4. Comprehensive Component Monitoring - Complete.
5. Catalyst Monitoring - Complete.
6. Heated Catalyst Monitoring - Not Supported.
7. Evaporative System Monitoring - Complete.
8. Secondary Air System Monitoring - Not Supported.
9. A/C System Refrigerant Monitoring - Not Supported.
10. Oxygen Sensor Monitoring - Complete.
11. Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitoring - Complete.
12. EGR System Monitoring - Complete.

Thanks

 

My Mazda is a '99 Protege 1.8L FP engine, and I have the applicable 2000 shop manual.
Rather than give you stuff that may not apply to you, I recommend you visit http://www.obd-codes.com/p0106, which is a link from an excellent site for OBD codes in general.

 

interesting, i just looked up the dtc's in the shop manual and they dont show anything for a P106 code, they have a P107 which is MAP sensor circuit low input which is located somewhere under the intake mani, i could provide more info but i dont have much to work with, i know the 04's have a couple of recalls on a couple of things, if you havent done anything to your car take it to a Mazda dealer and see what they say (obviously if they start talking about money leave and ill help out a little more)

 

Thats interesting, i didn't know our IAT sensor was interlocked with the MAF sensor, so if i'm getting this right, Part of our IAT sensor is one of the wires that lead into the MAF sensor?

 

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0106, an article by Dale Toalston, is a good read.
What it means is the PCM saw a rapid change in intake manifold pressure which it could not correlate to a change in engine load, speed, throttle position or EGR activity.
Among the possible causes he lists, one has been missed (probably because it is so damn specific to Mazdas). If you have a split in the air duct which only opens up when the engine rocks on its mounts due to the temporary torque reaction associated with brisk acceleration or deceleration, the air getting into the engine downstream of the MAF will throw the PCM calculations for a loop. If the split stays open long enough and if the engine is in the idle regime, this issue will set the CEL and store a P0171.
To check the MAF in situ, locate the signal wire (has a green stripe) and measure the voltage wrt. the MAF ground. It should read around 1 volt at idle, and around 4.5 volts at 3000-4000 rpms.
To check a MAF "off-line" (for instance if you got one from a scrapyard), you can use a 9V smoke detector battery and voltmeter. Connect the battery +ve where the red stripe wire goes, -ve where the black wire goes, and voltmeter +ve where the green stripe wire goes, and voltmeter -ve on the black; range setting 0 - 5v.
Now, using a hair dryer blowing cold air, push air through in the direction of the arrow on the MAF body. If you can make the voltmeter reading swing up and down as you change the air input, there's a better than 95% chance it's good.
If the voltmeter reads less than 0.4, more than 5, or doesn't change with air volume, it's scrap, certain.