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Help! 2010 Mazda3 PCM flash?

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  #1  
Old 11-07-2020, 06:56 PM
Number3Three's Avatar
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Default Help! 2010 Mazda3 PCM flash?

My car had been acting strange for a month or two, the transmission has not wanted to downshift when I slow down sometimes so I would use manual mode to downshift.

Then the battery starting dying and all of the dash lights would come on and the start button was unresponsive sometimes when trying to turn the car off. So I took it to the shop thinking I needed an alternator. The shop said alternator was overcharging the battery gave me the alternator (and air filter, tune up, oil change) for about $700. When I took it home it was still having dash lights come on (traction, tire pressure, power steering went out, etc)and it died once when I came to a stop. They said bring it back and I stopped by autozone and they ran the codes and tested the battery and alternator, both fine.



My codes were p061b and u0121



When I took it back to the shop they called at first and said that I need to replace the MAF but their price seemed high so I said wait. When I called back they said they tried the MAF (I guess they had one laying around?) and it fixed it for like an hour and then stopped. He also said they couldn't find out why the brake light wouldn't go out (the one that comes one when the parking brake is on). That is when he said he thought I should take it to the dealer and get the PCM flashed

Now it shifts before 2000 rpm and won't recognize manual mode, has no acceleration.
I went to check the codes again before doing anything else and now they are all over the place. Now its everything and the kitchen sink.

Here are all the codes that were on it today
P061B
P0102
PO113
P0500
U0121
and then those repeat two more times and then
P0421
U0101
U0155
U0100

Please Help!
 
  #2  
Old 11-07-2020, 10:47 PM
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Did you end up taking it to the dealer?
 
  #3  
Old 11-08-2020, 07:38 AM
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No, not yet. I was hoping I could try a few things first. Is that what you think I should do as well?
 
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Old 11-08-2020, 07:42 AM
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Also, yesterday I disconnected the neg battery terminal for 5+ minutes bc I read that that could reset the Throttle Position Sensor if that was a problem, Shifting and hesitation are two problems so I figured it couldn't hurt

Then I just started the car, no accelerator, just let it idle. While I was sitting there the idle was rough btwn 500 - 1000 but THE CRAZY THING is that the "Remove Parking Brake" light starting flashing in the lcd screen as if I was driving with the parking brake on, while I was siting still in Park.

The doors locked by themselves like I was driving. Still never touched the accelerator.
 

Last edited by Number3Three; 11-08-2020 at 08:42 AM.
  #5  
Old 11-08-2020, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Number3Three
Also, yesterday I disconnected the neg battery terminal for 5+ minutes so I figured it couldn't hurt

.
I don't know why people everywhere keep doing this.... yes it does hurt finding what the actual problems are. And you really do not do anything in the ECU, the adaptive and monitors remain as they were prior to the power disconnect, but you do successfully turn off the check engine light while the ECU runs through cycling and then displays the check engine light again because the root cause of the problem was not found and corrected.

 
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Old 11-08-2020, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Callisto
I don't know why people everywhere keep doing this.... yes it does hurt finding what the actual problems are. And you really do not do anything in the ECU, the adaptive and monitors remain as they were prior to the power disconnect, but you do successfully turn off the check engine light while the ECU runs through cycling and then displays the check engine light again because the root cause of the problem was not found and corrected.
Disconnecting the neg. was for resetting the TPS, not the PCM/ECU. And I think the check engine light was still on, along with traction, and tire pressure a/power steering flashing intermittently.

I didn't short the battery (as someone suggested online to reset the computer and do a drive cycle) but I do wonder why all the new codes appeared between taking it to the shop and getting it back the second time? and what to do next?
 

Last edited by Number3Three; 11-08-2020 at 03:42 PM.
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