Use some fishing line or dental floss and cut through the adhesive using a sawing motion. It helps if the adhesive is warm like if the car's sat in the sun for a while, or if you heat it with a heat gun for a little bit. Just clean up the residue with goo gone or bug and tar remover.

 

I don't think I'd wantany badge to besimply glued on, flat surface to flat surface... glued items liked that always eventually let go (might be years, but it will eventually happen - think of all the temp extremes, chemicals, wand wash water jets, etc, a car's exterior is subject to), meaning you'd eventuallybe left with a glue blotch and no badge.

Speaking of badging, I do think it's strange that there is not more badging to differentiate the models, especially the speed. The speed is not an inexpensive car, you'd think they'd spend a few dollars to place an extra badge or two on it.

 

Well the "3", "2.3", and side moldings are all held on with only adhesive and I've never heard of one that just fell off.

 

The 3 and 2.3 are just glued on - Really? Surprising to me.They must besmall, solid and simple enough that they think glue will last.Referring to SST's point, if they need/want pins to make sure the rear badges are straight and correctly placed, why don't they need them to make sure the 2.3 isstraight and correctly placed?

Side moldings I could see beingglued (or maybe baked) on, presumably they would bemade of a material that has some flexibility (not the rigid material a badge would be made of), which meansthey would be an easier glue ie. they can bepushed into place more easily than something rigid, and in temperature changes, theywill contract and expand along with the underlying surface moreso than something rigid.