Hello all,

I've got a 2004 Mazda 3 that has started having a no start condition, battery tests good with a volt meter and after some playing around I found after pulling the key in and out, I am able to get the car to start. Led me down to the ignition cylinder or switch. I ordered a new ignition switch since it was the cheapest option, which I just swapped out and unfortunately it did not resolve the problem. You've got to pull the key a few times and you can finally get it to start, otherwise it just does nothing when turned to start.

I pulled the cylinder out and everything looks fine, nothing appears to be worn. The only thing I can say is when you pull the key out of the cylinder, I think there is more resistance and it's tighter to pull out than it used to be. I'm not the primary driver of the car so I could be wrong on that fact though. Other than that, the key itself turns fine between Off / Acc / Start.

Before I go and order a new ignition cylinder, is there anything else I should check with these cars? A new cylinder is about $200 up here in Canada.

Cheers

 

When you say " not start" does the starter engage and turn the engine over?

 

Currently sitting at about a 50/50 shot of it starting.

50% of the time, put the key in and turn it, fires up like normal.
50% of the time, put the key in and turn it, nothing -- no crank, no solenoid noises, nothing at all. pull the key out and try again, it might work.

 

What's the immobilizer light doing when it doesn't crank? Does it go out? Does it stay on? Does it flash?

 

Just went out and tested -- when you are sitting in the drivers seat without the key in, the immobilizer light is flashing, once the key is in and turned to ACC, the immo light goes solid for a couple of seconds and then when attempt start, it goes out. Also noticed the electronics console in the middle goes out when start is attempted.

I also recorded a video -- https://imgur.com/a/tcnOmdp

I wasn't able to get a test of a successful start, battery is too low so I hooked it up to a charger. Likely from my testing yesterday, I had a lot of cranks and didn't get it run between them.

 

Ever found out what the issue was? Mine does the exact same, and from what I’ve seen over a year, it happens more often in the winter.

 

Oh boy... we no longer have the car but I definitely did solve it but I am trying to remember what it was... I didn't need to order any new parts and it wasn't the ignition switch.

If my memory serves me correct, it was some corrosion on the wire that connects to the starter, I simply pulled it off and gave it a scuff up with my wire brush and everything was great after that.